Is it necessary? I'm trying to mount a 49cc engine on it. It seems like I could just put some longer bolts on there, and it would be fine. I have $0 budget for this project, so I'm trying to find some workarounds on that. Any suggestions? Also, the stock Fat Cat tire on the back - does it last any longer than any other wheels unaided? I do have a replacement that I could fortify and use if necessary, so I'm just curious if I'll need to go get it, lol.
OCC Stingray Motor Mount
- Thread starter xXJDXx
- Start date
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
YES ....If you have a $0 budget you need to get into something else. A HT engine can't be installed to last on that budget. I don't think anyone has done it. I'd say I most likely come the closest, but I fab 95% on labor and 5% on cost.
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Well, all I'm missing really is the mount, and I'm pretty sure I could get some U adapters to fit, since I've seen engines installed on StingRays like that before. So maybe I could find a way to spare $5 or so for this adapter, because that's all I'm missing. everything else is already on the bike and working. 
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
The clutch cable goes from the clutch handle directly to the engine. The only attachments to the frame is where you secure the cable housing with zip ties, tape or the such.
Below is a picture of the cable housing adjuster support, which is screwed into the engine case RED arrow. The BLUE arrow points to the cable adjuster that screws into the support. I removed the adjuster from the support when I made and installed the roller and bracket.
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I see. I must only be missing the screw that goes onto the engine and the other end of the clutch arm then. Is a wheel necessary to route the clutch cable with that wheel? The way I had it before, it was being used to route the chain.
Maybe I just have no idea where to attach it to the engine, and it's still there, lol. If you couldn't tell, my mechanic friend is kind of an idiot, and would have probably missed that too.
Maybe I just have no idea where to attach it to the engine, and it's still there, lol. If you couldn't tell, my mechanic friend is kind of an idiot, and would have probably missed that too.
Stan4d
New Member
that wheel is an upgrade....your cable, if you do not upgrade to the pulley, would go through the standoff next to it (the thing that the red arrow points to). Then attached to the clutch arm.
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
Look in the engine valley, between the cylinder and clutch shaft, on the outside top of engine case, and look to see if the thing (clutch adjuster holder) that the RED arrow is pointing to is there. The thing, (cable adjuster) the BLUE arrow is pointing to should be screwed into the thing (clutch adjuster holder) the RED arrow is pointing to.
Actually the wheel and bracket is a mod and realistically not needed (I buy them at Lowe's in the screen/patio door section..2 in a pack for less then $6.00). Something else most likely can be used although the wheel works great. The bracket I made with the wheel provides a smooth cable flow between the clutch handle and the clutch arm. This set up reduces the effort needed on the clutch handle to disengage (pull on handle) the clutch. When tested on my bike I used 6# test mono fishing line to pull and disengage the clutch. While riding I can use 1 finger. There are a number of members here that have them on their bike and I hear nothing but positive responses on their use.
RED line is the NORMAL cable/housing routing... BLUE speaks for itself.
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Ah, I see. Thanks for the help! I'm surprised I didn't see that. All I gotta find now is a way to secure the other end of the cable to the clutch arm, hook up the magneto and kill switch, and attach the last bolt on the engine, and I'm good!
