rectifier and voltage regulator

sideshowbob

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The critical component to install is a rectifier and voltage regulator I built one that is tiny and fits in a small tin box, it is 1"x2" circuit board. connect the neg to the frame ground and white wire to positive input. then connect outputs to a small battery, then on to switches and lights. This VR unit is variable from 0-30volts so you can set it to charge 6 or 12 volt lighting sysems (+1.5v over bat voltage). I may start selling these soon; if I do a kit would be abut $10, and a finished one for $20. + shipping. but you would still have to figure out a box or bag toput it and the battery in. I used a small tin box for under the seat with NIMH battery unit. I will post piccs soon (I'm waiting for a handlebar mounted MC switch unit before I can wire it all up. but here is a pic of the finished VR rectifier unit.
 

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yea

You could put that board in a small project box.
I would spray coat the Board with Acrylic clear coat.
And seal the box up good with RTV.
Keeps the water out...
Water Bad !!!!!:cool:
 
VR boxes

I choose a tin box painted like my bike but tupperware plastic would work and would seal well. I did clear coat the circuit board I am considering dipping it all in potting compound which is black heat conductive sealer. I'm still fiddleing with it all. As I said I will post pics of stages when I get it all assembled. I don't ride in the rain my CNS carb and filter would suck in all kinds of water unless I build some kind of cover/rain shield for the filter/intake. I was able to seal up my wiring (heatshrink) and hide it all in wire loom so it looks a little cleaner. But for now I'm a fair weather rider.
 
WAY back in the 80's, my dad was part of a Commodore 64 software pirating club. Many of the "higher end" programs required a dongle-- a plug-in "key" of sorts that acted as a "password"... anyway, he was the dongle builder, and he would dip them in a resin of some sort to keep them protected. It looked a lot like amber, but it was insulated. If he was alive, I would ask him what it was, but because it worked so well, I would think that it was designed for that purpose.
 
potting resin

yep thats the stuff, I found black here I also used little rubber washers for feet to keep it away from the box.
 
The critical component to install is a rectifier and voltage regulator I built one that is tiny and fits in a small tin box, it is 1"x2" circuit board. connect the neg to the frame ground and white wire to positive input. then connect outputs to a small battery, then on to switches and lights. This VR unit is variable from 0-30volts so you can set it to charge 6 or 12 volt lighting sysems (+1.5v over bat voltage). I may start selling these soon; if I do a kit would be abut $10, and a finished one for $20. + shipping. but you would still have to figure out a box or bag toput it and the battery in. I used a small tin box for under the seat with NIMH battery unit. I will post piccs soon (I'm waiting for a handlebar mounted MC switch unit before I can wire it all up. but here is a pic of the finished VR rectifier unit.

Does this device employ a boost converter so that you can charge a 12v battery using the white wire? Maybe even an MPPT type circuit? If so, that looks like a very versatile and useful addition. Otherwise, the white wire can only be used on a 6v system.
 
Looks like a linear regulator. (No boost.)

Bob, rather than saying that you might be re-selling them soon, you could have provided a link to where they can be bought now. They're very easily come by.

Here's a link to the manufacturer's page 'Future Kit' regulator. Click on 'Distributor' to find your nearest dealer.

Having said that, from a technical point-of-view, this is just another cheap regulator kit with a high dropout voltage. Any kit from any supplier would compare.

Also, a full-wave rectifier such as the one on this board is not a good idea on the white wire. Half-wave rectification of (I think) the negative half of the cycle is much better. The CDI only operates on one half of the cycle, so setting up the lighting/charge system to work on the opposite half of the cycle will prevent the lighting from affecting the ignition system as much.

All that's really needed on the white wire is one rectifier diode, one resistor and a Zener diode (or two in series) to limit the voltage. Depending on the lighting/charging system, a capacitor could be added to smooth the voltage. Anything else is overkill.
 
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Looks like a linear regulator. (No boost.)
...
All that's really needed on the white wire is one rectifier diode, one resistor and a Zener diode (or two in series) to limit the voltage. Depending on the lighting/charging system, a capacitor could be added to smooth the voltage. Anything else is overkill.

I agree. And even the zener might be overkill. I had been running a system with a ½ wave rectifier (diode) and a zener regulator. The output from the white wire is so weak that you do not need a regulator. I removed the regulator long ago and monitored the voltage for some time. At first I used a 6v SLA battery with no problems from overcharging. I am now trying 2 LiFePO4 AA cells and they seem to be working even better. The voltage at the battery has never gotten near the danger point. 2 AA rechargeable lithium batteries and a diode are all that is needed. Actually, any 6v rechargeable battery should be fine, NiCad, NiMH, LiFePO4, or SLA.
 
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