Dual Drive Hub

Thanks for the pics.
I don't see why you couldn't use it on either side. From the pictures, it looks like the thread goes all the way across the freewheel and you can bolt the sprocket on either side. As for the spokes, I wanted to use 8-10g. I think Im going to get it now. Thanks again.
 
Good thinking with the front dual disc brakes, personally I don't do front brakes on them for the clutch lever reason.

Well, I sent some pics, the hub pic shows that the hub has either 10-12G spoke holes, the one on the left is the one being sold, the one on the right is a 14G hub.

The hub has right handed threads on the right side, left handed (reverse) threads on the left side. The freewheel sprocket that comes with it is designed to be on the chain drive and it as well is left handed (reverse) threads. When it is mounted to the hub, spinning CCW torques the wheel and spinning CW ratchets the freewheel.

Now, the only way to put the sprocket on the right side with right handed threads, is to reverse the freewheel sprocket, putting the face of it away from the spokes. This changes the direction of the ratchet of the freewheel. There is only one configuration for the freewheel sprocket to go on the right side, and when it is put there the pedaling torque will cause it to click and ratchet. No matter what side of the freewheel you put the sprocket on, the ratchet is still only going to work in one direction, and the threads will only allow it to be screwed on in one direction.

This is because the drive chain freewheel sprocket is southpaw, such as when people do lefthanded pedaling setups. You would have to get a standard right handed freewheel to go on the right side of the hub.

But, if you were still wanting to get this axle I would be more than willing to sell it to you at a killer deal. Pm me if you want to talk about it.



I was looking at the clamshells, and while they look interesting, my hub is too skinny to accept it. As well, that would be a fixed sprocket, while I'm definitely wanting to take advantage of the freewheel on the drive side. It's really surprising how much a difference it makes. I know this only from pedaling the MxB after the drive chain snapped - it's NOTHING like pedaling with the clutch held, and the perk about the sprocket is that you won't have to clutch pedal ever again. When the pedal drive is torquing, the freewheel on the drive sprocket is engaged.
 
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Nah, but it won't be an issue. My engine is broke in and fires up in 2-3 feet of compression start, so all I have to do is reverse start by walking it backwards, tossing a good final push and drop the clutch. Very good point though!
 
Nah, but it won't be an issue. My engine is broke in and fires up in 2-3 feet of compression start, so all I have to do is reverse start by walking it backwards, tossing a good final push and drop the clutch. Very good point though!

Just wondering you cant pedal start with a free wheel on the rear.
50 years ago I built on used a 1 1/2 hp Briggs belt drive ( V-plex clutch is like the front have of a CVT it pinched the belt ) clutch to about a 6" pully on the jack shaft. Just under the seat and the small rear wheel sproket behind it to the large pedal sproket filed out to fit the rear hub and welded it. Went about 25 then the next winter I took the engine and hhoned out the ports and it went 35. Didn't last to long over reveing flatend the crank. Ended up traiding it for a model A-Ford. Now wished I had both back Have fun......Curt
 
Fortunately the crank doesn't mind which direction it's turning to get a push start/compression start, so starting backwards is the only option I have if I want to keep it pedal start with the freewheel sprocket. It's going to be worth it, as this would really be the closest thing you can find to an "on/off" switch for the motor. There's still considerable resistance when pulling it through the clutch, so the freewheel is the way to go. I'm sure somewhere along the line I might be able to find a way to engage and disengage the freewheel while it's still on the wheel and with the wheel on the bike, but that'll require me to make some ghetto blueprints.
 
Fortunately the crank doesn't mind which direction it's turning to get a push start/compression start, so starting backwards is the only option I have if I want to keep it pedal start with the freewheel sprocket. It's going to be worth it, as this would really be the closest thing you can find to an "on/off" switch for the motor. There's still considerable resistance when pulling it through the clutch, so the freewheel is the way to go. I'm sure somewhere along the line I might be able to find a way to engage and disengage the freewheel while it's still on the wheel and with the wheel on the bike, but that'll require me to make some ghetto blueprints.

check with Hybriped
 
But unfortunately, therein lies the problem - everyone seems to have a different solution to the spoke sandwich sprocket problem, and the Hybriped is an option that delivers a solution to a problem I'm bypassing altogether. Though, I have a good idea now as to the mechanics of the Hybriped, although it doesn't help much, as it doesn't involve a freewheel or threading onto left handed hub threads on the left side (which is the parts I'm going to be working with).
 
same boat

I totally am with you and am currently trying to find a solution to the same problem. I have gone through a couple rims myself and thank god for the bike junkyard by me or would cost. I have looked into the kits u bought but wasnt aware of the problem u related so good looking out. I personally have even gone as far as thinking about welding the gear with spacers on the a spare hub i have to perminantly affixiate it
 
im new

Ok not to sound stupid but im lookign for a solution to whats a hybriped is it a jackshaft or hub kit
 
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