Clutch Skyhawk GT5 wont disengage when clutch lever pulled

the large spring goes over the cable housing to protect the housing from the heat of the engine.

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Thanks everyone for your help. I think olkoot is right about the clutch disc sticking because i'm not able to disengage it manually by just moving the clutch arm. Hopefully I can get it unstuck from the pressure plate. Is the clover nut the same thing as the butterfly screw? And Stan4d, if I route my cable the correct way, through the ballmount, will i be able to release the clutch disc by tapping the pressure plate? thanks again
 
the large spring goes over the cable housing to protect the housing from the heat of the engine.

i have the large spring over the small spring on both of my engines, and i do not have any problem with engine heat affecting the clutch cable housing.
if you route the clutch cable so that it isn't touching the cylinder, heat will not be a problem. you have to have an air gap between the cable and the cylinder.
if you let the cable rest against the cylinder, heat will melt the cable housing.
i can see how that bigger spring would help with that problem, but eventually don't you think that the spring will transfer engine heat to the cable housing and melt it? but really, even if the housing gets melted, the cable will still be fine because it has a steel sleve inside the housing.
there is no movement of the cable on the outside so i don't see how that spring would protect it.
 
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Hey Chainsaw, The clover nut, that's what I call it, is inside the right cover of the motor. It's right in the middle of the pressure plate. It doesn't look like a nut. It looks kind of like a four leaf clover and sits flush with the plate with a small set screw in between two of the "clover" ears. After the set screw is removed the clover nut screws in and out to adjust your clutch as the clutch discs wear down. In a new motor you probably won't have to adjust the clover nut. I always count the turns off and back on when removing the clover nut as to not be too far out of adjustment. All that being said, stop! The other guys are right about proper routing of the cable thru the ball mount and proper tension on the cable itself. It takes a lot of force to push the clutch lever to the disengaged position. Enough pressure to hurt your thumb. Don't start taking stuff apart until your sure you're pushing the clutch arm in far enough. You should also check out aussiesteve's tech articles in the tech part of this forum. He's a great tech writer and will address most issues with these kits.
 
Thanks olkoot, i'm certain that it's not a problem with the clutch cable or lever but a problem with the clutch arm not doing it's job. I'm not sure exactly what that job is. Is the clutch arm turning the cam which is in turn pushing that rod in?
 
Thanks olkoot, i'm certain that it's not a problem with the clutch cable or lever but a problem with the clutch arm not doing it's job. I'm not sure exactly what that job is. Is the clutch arm turning the cam which is in turn pushing that rod in?

So, you changed the routing of your cable?
 
Please do as Stan4d suggests before taking apart your clutch. He is correct in that you do not have the cable properly installed through the cable stay that is just underneath the carburetor, threaded into the top of the engine case.
There is nooooooo way that your clutch will work what-so-ever if you do not first have the cable installed properly.

Install the long cable springs as you wish. They have no consequence on the clutch operating or not.
If you really want to know what they do, the larger diameter spring goes over the cable right near the cylinder to act as a heat should of sorts to protect the black outer cable sheathing. The smaller diameter spring goes over the inner cable wire, between the cable stay and the release arm sticking out of the sprocket cover. It is supposed to act as an anti-rattle spring.
Just look at the photos shared by members here who do have a properly routed and working clutch.
If you do not believe them, just read the kit instructions.
Here's a link to them if you need it. Read Step#4.
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/2-stroke-kit-installation.php
 
Success! I have the clutch cable routed correctly and when I pull the clutch lever the engine disengages. But it couldn't be that simple, my rear sprocket was off a bit and I threw my chain. So I think I've fixed that and I've readjusted the tensioner. I've heard some suggestions and now I think I'm going to peddle around a bit with it disengaged to help get things working, cross my fingers and then pop the clutch
 
Success doesn't last long. Everything is installed correctly, the clutch lever disengages the engine allowing me to peddle up to speed. But when I drop the clutch I'm able to peddle twice and then nothing. The engine doesn't start. This is a brand new engine and I've heard of them sticking and generally being hard to start right out of the box, so I'm gonna keep trying since now my sprocket is true and I wont throw my chain. Any suggestions would be appreciated, you all have helped immensely so far.
 
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