Brake light switch ideas

James65,
That was sort of what I had in mind. I expect that is a normally closed switch. So where did you get a switch like that? It was mostly the mounting screws that were giving me pause. You have that issue covered with that switch...
 
very cool idea james, and i think this is about the best idea for a homemade brake light activator that Ive seen here so far.

2 thumbs up
 
This has worked for my on all me rides. Shown mounted with the cover off.
The switch is mounted on the bottom of the lever and really isn't noticable.

that's a really simple configuration! I tend to overthink things, so something that simple didn't come to me :D

I managed to break my clutch lever earlier today anyway, so I went ahead and bought a locking brake/clutch lever with a built-in brake light switch I found on eBay... Locking brake lever with brake light switch
 
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James65,
That was sort of what I had in mind. I expect that is a normally closed switch. So where did you get a switch like that? It was mostly the mounting screws that were giving me pause. You have that issue covered with that switch...

Bought the switches on ebay 10 for$4
They are wired N/C and have been functioning properly for 2 yrs.
 
Bought the switches on ebay 10 for$4
They are wired N/C and have been functioning properly for 2 yrs.

does that mean that this SPDT switch from Radio Shack can be either normally open OR normally closed, just based on how it's wired? (or maybe that IS the definition of SPDT...)

SPDT switch

I have a lot to learn still...
 
Red,
That is exactly right. Single Pole Double Throw= Common with 1 N/O and 1 N/C contact.
 
Hi Everyone -

Attached should be pictures of my latest version of a brake-lever-actuated brake light. The "switch" is composed of a fishing line removable split shot, cheap hose clamps, some electrical tape, and the rear brake cable. The shot pellet and a wire from the battery are clamped to the brake cable. The hose clamps hold in place a wire going to the brake light. These are the parts of a common single throw double pole switch; a momentary switch. When I pull on the brake lever, the cable pulls the fishing shot to touch the hose clamps, closing an electrical circuit of battery, conductor, and brake light. I hope the photos show that clearly enough. Also included is a photo of my first attempt of wiring this together. It is a "proof of concept"; not pretty, but functional. It has to be made better. The battery is 12 Volts. A separate toggle switch can control when the light can be worked. The tail light is from Harbor Freight. It is a truck trailer light. When dim, it draws only 11 milliamps. When braking and activated, it draws only 132 milliamps. This is not a bicycle light. When bright, it can be seen a full half mile away with no doubt that something is there.

MikeJ
 

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James65,

The switches were from Radio Shack, a pack of 4 for less than 5 bucks. It's the mounting that's the trick. Google a company called "Dura Fix". They have a welding rod kit for 30-some bucks that welds aluminum like you wouldn't believe. It will be the best 30-some bucks you will ever spend. All you need to build your bracket is a propane torch and this welding rod, and of coarse a small piece of angle aluminum. I broke down the duel pull lever, welded a couple small brackets, and WaaLaa, a nice clean looking brake system. I'm also using LED's to prolong the battery life. You can go months without charging. Check out this site for the LED's, they plug right into the regular 12 volt light sockets. http://www.customdynamics.com/vtx_turn_signal_mod.htm
 
break switch

Well that proves where there is a will there is a way. Very creative engineering.



Hi Everyone -

Attached should be pictures of my latest version of a brake-lever-actuated brake light. The "switch" is composed of a fishing line removable split shot, cheap hose clamps, some electrical tape, and the rear brake cable. The shot pellet and a wire from the battery are clamped to the brake cable. The hose clamps hold in place a wire going to the brake light. These are the parts of a common single throw double pole switch; a momentary switch. When I pull on the brake lever, the cable pulls the fishing shot to touch the hose clamps, closing an electrical circuit of battery, conductor, and brake light. I hope the photos show that clearly enough. Also included is a photo of my first attempt of wiring this together. It is a "proof of concept"; not pretty, but functional. It has to be made better. The battery is 12 Volts. A separate toggle switch can control when the light can be worked. The tail light is from Harbor Freight. It is a truck trailer light. When dim, it draws only 11 milliamps. When braking and activated, it draws only 132 milliamps. This is not a bicycle light. When bright, it can be seen a full half mile away with no doubt that something is there.

MikeJ
 
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