Battery Box

[Sgt. Howard]

Well, I'm thoroughly disgusted with the white wire pushing a 6 volt flashlight bulb, especially as the same bulb with a decent dry tub 6 volt battery seems adequate to my needs- so I DC'd the light from the motor harness and am building a box to hold said battery. These are camping flashlight operations I'm talking about, and I seem to recall they give a good long service for the $$$. The box will be made of #1 cedar, 1/2" finger jointed at the corners with brass fittings and hookups much like the battery box of a Model T- I'm thinking it will go behind the seatpost. If I am buying batteries too often I will do another box to hold 4 rechargable "D" cells along the same lines and have a charger at work as well as at home. Either way, I won't dim at idle. Pictures will be submitted soon-
the Old Sgt.

 

[wheelbender6]

When the LED lights became less expensive, I quit using the white wire and went to battery power. I had been using an automotive fog light with a 6v tag light bulb.

 

[RedBaronX]

I just ordered my worksman bike to start my MB project over. I'm going to build a battery box that will fit between the top bars. I've got a rechargeable 12v battery and will be running headlight, turn signals, horn, and brake light, all LED lights.

There are 6v dynamo hub generators, and I think the really good ones have a battery of some sort so you don't go dark at idle

 

[Sgt. Howard]

Here are a couple of images of the aforementioned box- as you can see, finger-jointed corners except on the ends, wingnut & tag attatchments for electrical, all brass and copper fittings... I went with the brand name of the detonator Uncle Ed used when he taught my Brother and myself the fine art of blowing tree stumps with TNT, Torpex or common black (Climax) and tagged my own monniker to it just to be obnoxiouse- the labels are computer printed then decopaged onto the wood. There is no stain, just varnish- that's #1 cedar, of which I have a limited supply. Also avaliable is oak (preferred from both a historical and functional standpoint), black walnut, poplar and a variety of veneers (these would be the cheapest option- also the flimsiest). Baron, shoot me dimentions and material and I'll throw you a quote.
the Old Sgt.

 

[Sgt. Howard]

BTW- Nimbus (the fuzzy thing in the upper right of the photos) endorses my work. He is of the opinion that I have successfully retreated technology by at least eleven decades.
the Old Sgt.

 

[RedBaronX]

I would definitely be interested in a battery box! I don't have the tools for doing finger joints or anything like that-- woulda been just butt joints if I built it.

the battery dimensions are 7.5 x 2.5 x 4.5, adding some room on the length and height for flasher relay and wires (2.5 is the exact dimension of width). I'm not exactly sure how much space there is between the top bars of the worksman, but I'll know in a couple days when it gets here. I don't have a material preference, but I would prefer the box opens on a small end-- I'll probably hinge it and have a clasp of some sort so opening it is easy for me-- to recharge the battery every night.

I like the decals idea. I wasn't sure if I was going to paint it or stain it, but seeing yours I will probably stain it for a weathered look, do a decal, and then clear coat it.

I can create a gasket no problem for the lid

 

[Sgt. Howard]

Do you intend to share the space between the bars with a gas tank? Could be done, you know- custom tank to say the least, but it could be done. I would recomend the oak- total projected price would be $40 to $45 naked, $15 more for stain & varnish (I recomend miniwax golden oak & glossy varathane). Insofar as connects are concerned, there are a number of ways to rig them- if your posts are on top, I would rig the box to come out of the frame to pull the top lid. Might do that anyway, otherwise you'll have one side without fingerjoints for the hatch. Is the 4.5 HIGHTH or WIDTH? ... and is this one of those 12 volts with a harness for charging/deployment? All things to consider, nothing overtly challenging... I am a gunsmith, after all... my box has been a lovely challenge in that it has changed several times in the making, both as to how it works and where it goes. Still figureing out the switch, I'm thinking that goes in the headlight itself, got some clever ideas about the wireing as well (I know how to cover it in fabric!). Your call-
the Old Sgt.

 

[Sgt. Howard]

BTW- If you own a table saw and know how to keep your fingers out of the blade, you have enough tooling to do finger joints.
the Old Sgt.

 

[RedBaronX]

Do you intend to share the space between the bars with a gas tank? Could be done, you know- custom tank to say the least, but it could be done. I would recomend the oak- total projected price would be $40 to $45 naked, $15 more for stain & varnish (I recomend miniwax golden oak & glossy varathane). Insofar as connects are concerned, there are a number of ways to rig them- if your posts are on top, I would rig the box to come out of the frame to pull the top lid. Might do that anyway, otherwise you'll have one side without fingerjoints for the hatch. Is the 4.5 HIGHTH or WIDTH? ... and is this one of those 12 volts with a harness for charging/deployment? All things to consider, nothing overtly challenging... I am a gunsmith, after all... my box has been a lovely challenge in that it has changed several times in the making, both as to how it works and where it goes. Still figureing out the switch, I'm thinking that goes in the headlight itself, got some clever ideas about the wireing as well (I know how to cover it in fabric!). Your call-
the Old Sgt.

I've got a Whizzer thank that will ride on top of the bar, not in the frame, which is why I thought that space would be great for the battery.

The 4.5 is technically for the height of the battery, but I'm sure to get it and the box to fit in the space the battery will have to lay on its side.

If it fits the way I hope it will, it will fit between the two top bars, with the smallest dimension of the battery, like this:

with the 4.5" dimension running the width of the bike and the open end being on the 4.5 x 2.5 end that faces the back of the bike.

If it won't fit there, I was thinking I could mount the box on the side, like this:

I would go with naked oak. I've got enough stain and finishes to last awhile-- I've refinished five rifles and I make arrows... I just don't have anything like a table saw. I've got a cordless drill and a cordless circular, and then lots of hand tools.

I would feed the wires into the box where they will terminate with alligator clips to connect to the battery. No harness, just a rectangular box with tab type terminals

 

[Sgt. Howard]

I will buy the oak a week from tomorrow- payday- I can hinge the box on one side, but then that side will be without finger jointery... better to 'wrap' the finger joints around the ends to top and bottom in that case (all corners perpendicular to travel and parralell to road), more symetrical. OR... better still... finger joint the upright corners, lid on top- battery is harnessed to quick connect OUTSIDE the box so you only have to pull connection and hook to charger. Lid is only used to remove battery, and you have to remove box to do that. Your call. I will have to shave top and bottom boards to assure snug fit between bars, make sure I get that dimention.
the Old Sgt.