Pick Bike Or Motor Kit First?

thats why i do my own maintence on bikes but i had him fill mine full of course i got coaster brakes which i dont use because i got caliper brakes on it any way and he did clean out the old grease before he done it i didnt make my self clear i was in there with him while he done it i dont have no hills here so the coaster is just a thing i use my calipers more than anything .
 
Bike or engine first? that is the question...
Id say bike first, then you can measure the frame to see what kind of engine you want, i've been building alot of 4 stroke beach type cruisers lately, they make for very dependable strong bikes.
I agree with everyone's advice on going over the entire bike before riding it.
those nuts you were reffering to are called
Nylock nuts, because they have a nylon insert that wont vibrate loose, and are worth the extra cost and effort.
BIG A$$ BRAKES! front and rear, as good as you can afford.
Have the wheels re trued, you would be surprised how loose they are from the factory.
Mind your final gearing(rear sprocket) you dont want to over rev a tiny little 2 stroke to much it kills engine life.
Ask lots of questions.
Good luck
BBB

Buz ... the ones you are talking about are different from the serrated ones but come to think of it will be better .. just couldn't remember the name of them.. .thanks

All of you guys have been great with responses ... Thanks :cool:
 
thats why i do my own maintence on bikes but i had him fill mine full of course i got coaster brakes which i dont use because i got caliper brakes on it any way and he did clean out the old grease before he done it i didnt make my self clear i was in there with him while he done it i dont have no hills here so the coaster is just a thing i use my calipers more than anything .

to get rid of the grease completely I would soak then in some mineral spirits
. you have got to think there are maybe little metal pieces left over from the manufacturing of the hub ... I guess that's why there is a break in period on car engines and parts... or am I being little to @n@l here :)
 
The order of purchase doesn't matter when you have a good plan in mind. I bought the engine first because I found what I wanted at a good price right away. Finding the type of bicycle I wanted took longer; an old steel frame beach cruiser. I hit the jackpot when a friend gave me the old Galaxy Flyer she had rotting away in her garage. Her junk became my treasure. A complete tear down of the bicycle to the last nut and bolt was required. A bare frame is easiest to paint. All the bearings got Super Lube synthetic grease with Teflon.
 
First hand experience here...

Can't say either is better built, the better the bike the more reliable it will be... as in you get what you pay for!

First thing you should do when you get that new bike home from wally world is GO OVER EVERYTHING and make sure EVERYTHING is tightened and adjusted correctly!!!

Remember... some kid in the back room is mass building these things and has to meet a quota

Personally, I would go with the Schwinn
The only bicycle I've ever bought already assembled was a 1981 Schwinn continental which I still have. It was purchased from a local Schwinn dealer that is still in business here. That bike is one of the old real Schwinns that was built here in Chicago. All other bikes I’ve bought since were still in the box. I refuse to buy a bike from a department store that’s already assembled. Reason being is I know I’m going to have to go ove it with a fine toothed comb. The folks that work in the stores and put those bikes together in general don’t know Jack about bikes. I’d much rather take it out of the box and put it together correctly the first time and get everything adjusted to my likings rather than have to redo what someone else has already made a mess of. I’ve seen bikes on the rack at WallyWorld with brakes mounted backwards and the one that really got me was the one with the front fork mounted backwards. Imagine someone not knowing much about bicycles buying something like that. Could be a bad accident or funeral in the making.
 
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Honestly if you tune and maintain the bike properly, it doesn't matter what bike you put it on, as long as it will receive whichever type of motor you plan to put on it.
 
Honestly if you tune and maintain the bike properly, it doesn't matter what bike you put it on, as long as it will receive whichever type of motor you plan to put on it.
I think a lot of people here on the forum will disagree. There is definitely a big difference between steel frames and alloy frames ! Steel being the favorite material of choice.
 
When you're comparing a walmart Huffy and a walmart Schwinn, it doesn't really make much of a difference. When you put a combustion engine between your legs, the bike's specs don't make so much a difference and it's all on the motor's specs and modifications (given that you maintain the bicycle aspects of it properly). I've motored 500 dollar frames and 15 dollar frames, the end result is relatively always the same.
 
When you're comparing a walmart Huffy and a walmart Schwinn, it doesn't really make much of a difference. When you put a combustion engine between your legs, the bike's specs don't make so much a difference and it's all on the motor's specs and modifications (given that you maintain the bicycle aspects of it properly). I've motored 500 dollar frames and 15 dollar frames, the end result is relatively always the same.
I agree with what you said about Huffy vs. Schwinn. They probably both come out of the same back room for all I know. It is a well known fact though that welds on an alloy frame will break a lot easier than those on a steel frame. Regardless, the main point, as I think you mentioned is regular/routine maintenance and inspection. And by the way, as you can tell, I'm pro steel frame, however my current motor bike is an older Schwinn Hybrid, alloy frame with a friction drive. I'm sure there's a big difference in the stresses applied to the frame between a frame mount vs. friction drive. Bottom line is safety !
 
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