Which Friction Set-up?

[RoostersCrow]

RoosterCrow,
Were the front mounts on the kit mount up to the frame,did it come with extra long U shaped bar or did you have to add extention bars to it to make it long enough so the kit didnt lean to far forward?Im not sure if im expaining it right,but I am planing on putting a Staton Robin kit on a beach cruiser and am afraid the front U shaped mount wont be long enough....
John

I ordered and installed 5" extention bracket arms
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/5_Extension_bracket-541-34.html

I just took the bike for its first ride. Had to ride though some snow and wet spots to get myself to dry black top. The full suspension set-up was nice, but unlike when your peddling there is no need to be in the aggressive peddle position that a mountain bike puts you in. I'm going to be looking for a cruiser with front suspension, so I can sit back and enjoy the ride.

 

[fall_down_stand_up]

I ordered and installed 5" extention bracket arms
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/5_Extension_bracket-541-34.html

I just took the bike for its first ride. Had to ride though some snow and wet spots to get myself to dry black top. The full suspension set-up was nice, but unlike when your peddling there is no need to be in the aggressive peddle position that a mountain bike puts you in. I'm going to be looking for a cruiser with front suspension, so I can sit back and enjoy the ride.

Thanks for sending me the link....
John

 

[fall_down_stand_up]

I hear the Dax friction drive kit is better than the Staton kit,is this true?I know the Subaru Robin is a better engine,but whose kit is better?
John

 

[RoostersCrow]

Better?

I know the Statton kit is very well made, right here in the US. I’ve read that you need access to a press to change the drive roller, though. The Dax set-up is supposedly easier to replace the drive roller on.


I can let everyone know that after just 6 miles on my bike I can already see and feel ware on the drive roller. Here in Michigan the dirt roads are still damp and the sand sticks to the tires. This appears to be wearing the roller in a hurry. I'm disappointed to think that I have to only a few really dry months in the summer to use the set-up. With hindsight I think I would have been better off with a chain or belt drive.

 

[fall_down_stand_up]

Better?

I know the Statton kit is very well made, right here in the US. I've read that you need access to a press to change the drive roller, though. The Dax set-up is supposedly easier to replace the drive roller on.


I can let everyone know that after just 6 miles on my bike I can already see and feel ware on the drive roller. Here in Michigan the dirt roads are still damp and the sand sticks to the tires. This appears to be wearing the roller in a hurry. I'm disappointed to think that I have to only a few really dry months in the summer to use the set-up. With hindsight I think I would have been better off with a chain or belt drive.

Thats a bummer about the roller wearing that fast....Is that Robin have decent power pulling up hills?What size roller did you buy????
John

 

[happycheapskate]

I have no experience with the staton products, but I have a dax kit, and you can get the bearings out without a press.

I observed the bearings were "pressed" in, with lockrings for backup. So I used an old drumstick as a dowel to hammer out the driveshaft with. It worked, but when I was putting it back in (with the wood stick in the center of the clutch drum so I didn't warp it), the right side bearing came out. I put it back by using a 2x4 piece and the hammer, moving around to keep it even.

I expect you can probably get the bearings out with a crowbar or piece of wood and a bolt: screw the board to one of the holes in the front of the channel (where the U-shaped support bolts up), and leverage the bearing out with the wood. There might be another method, too: if you drive the driveshaft out with the dowel, and the bearings are still in place, install a piece of All-Thread (3/8 or biggest will fit through the bearing centers), with 3 nuts, and 4 large washers. (2 opposing nuts on top of 2 washers, to press the left bearing, and a nut and 2 washers pressing the right bearing. Crank the nuts to push out the bearings, like you were spreading a cheap bike frame. )

Better?

I know the Statton kit is very well made, right here in the US. I've read that you need access to a press to change the drive roller, though. The Dax set-up is supposedly easier to replace the drive roller on.


I can let everyone know that after just 6 miles on my bike I can already see and feel ware on the drive roller. Here in Michigan the dirt roads are still damp and the sand sticks to the tires. This appears to be wearing the roller in a hurry. I'm disappointed to think that I have to only a few really dry months in the summer to use the set-up. With hindsight I think I would have been better off with a chain or belt drive.

 

[happycheapskate]

re: wear on the roller. It's surely possible, but likely just that the roller gets shined up by the tire on use. Mine did that. I can see where the tire contacts the roller. It is shiny and the knurled edges don't feel as "sharp", but I took it as break-in (100mi of use so far). I think it will be fine. Someone made a thread about wooden drive rollers as economical replacements too, and I am planning to make a clamp-on style that goes over the stock roller (1" to 1.5"). If it works, i can have a whole bunch of ready replacements.

 

[suitcasejefferson]

I am new to this, and just ordered the parts for a friction drive setup. I ordered the Staton kit, and a Robin-Suburu engine. While I have no experience with a rear friction drive,, I have some experience with front friction drives. I've put several thousand miles on a Solex moped, which is pretty much the same as a motorized bicycle, and I have also used a Sears Bike Bug, a LOOOONG time ago. Both drive systems worked great on dry pavement, they do not work when it is wet, and from what I've read about the Solex, riding it on dirt roads will cause considerable wear. And it has a carborundum roller that never wears out on pavement.

All just my opinion, but I would not choose a friction drive for riding on dirt. As for the parts, my first choice would have been a BMP friction drive kit, with the chain drive jackshaft setup, so it could be used either way. But they are out of business, and I believe that Staton makes the best stuff out there, even better than BMP, but lacks the chain drive conversion. With BMP out of the picture, Staton was my only other consideration. I am using the Robin-Subaru engine because I don't like Honda's attitude about using their engines and don't want to give them any business. From what I can tell, the Honda engine is a bit quieter than the R-S, but if so I can live with it.

 

[Happy Valley]

Has anyone actually used the bmp belt/chain conversion kit? It may have been a good idea but I've yet to see a review or hear how well they work or hold up over the miles???

As an aside, I can distinguish no difference whatsoever in exhaust note between the EHO35 and GX35.

 

[happycheapskate]

You got me excited! I thought BMP was back online! http://www.bikemotorparts.com/kit.html (closed, but still has useful info and pictures)


I've got nothing against Staton, but I am happy with my Dax kit, and the seller www.thatsdax.com, so I will buy from them again. They offer a chain drive kit you should see before you decide on your purchase. It uses a 3x reduction enclosed gearbox, and mounts very similar to the friction drive. It can use the happytime type wheel cogs, which he also sells.

My experience so far with the friction drive is that it works ok when wet, but does slip a little on take off and when crossing puddles. I am using 700x38 tires though. I feel its worth the trade off for not having to deal with chains and being able to pedal freely with no drive interference (disengaged roller).

Mine seems to work ok on sandy roads or dry clay utility roads, but mud does make a mess under it.