Dual Drive Hub

What I tried to offer you...

I did not try to sell anything.

I offered solution that worked for me.

If you need to find 4 or 5 hole freewheel I can get here anytime and I think last one I bought was 12 - 15 Dollars. Alot cheaper then what you seem to be spending... even if you asked me to send you one with shipping included. Thats all...

Remarks:
If you are using Aluminum Hubs you will continue to have issues... Trust me!!

Any Dealer can sell you a CP Steel 36h DT Hub! ( Threaded both sides) then use a belt style brake for rear wheel. It will thread on hub also and secure freewheel. It will give you aditional braking power if needed when under power and if engaged... would have stopped the bike ASAP if pants get caught in chain again. Again Any dealer should have this also!!

David
 
Ah, gotcha.

What was difficult was finding the dual threaded hub - I would have much rather preferred a standard 14 gauge 36 count steel hub, but the aluminum was all I could find.
 
:)

Any help or advice I can offer just ask... OK??

Picture in front of house is 2nd design. Dual pictures showing engine space was first design

email is davidstipek@msn.com

David
 

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David I am just starting out in this business. I could use some help. The 4/5 hole freewheel is the driven part of the drive system correct. Goes on the front sprocket? opposite the pedal sprocket? Still allows pedal start? This would be the easiest and best way to get power to the road? Beach rider type one speed bike.

Dan

Also picture of 4/5 hole freewheel. I have used both both work great. no preference. Depended how much room I had to drill Chain gear. If you deside to use Motorcyle chain and gear (420) you can get exact to fit hub area of freewheel so no need to balance. I have welded and Bolted chain wheels to freewheel. Prefer bolt now so I can change tooth gear to fit what I want. MPH or torgue. Actually I use for MPH and have gone from Chiang Mai to Bangkok on 1 tank of petrol.... 2600 rpm @ 75 kph, could go faster but enjoying the looks as drivers speed up to gaze.... :)

David
 
Dan
I am using 3 freewheels (1)at rear wheel (2)at left side of bike at original BB and (3) at chain wheel crank.

Why:
(1) for rear wheel to function properly, go figure Haha

(2) for my petrol engine to let pedals work and engine to coast, no need to worry about lock-up if engine dies. Engine I am using is 80cc Yamaha with semi automatic, no clutch! and is kick start (could use electic start if you want)

(3) for chain wheel and cranks to freewheel when under petrol power. this gives you comfortable foot rests and the ability to continue pedaling if motor suddenly quits. (you can also confuse motorists and act like you are pedaling while staying with them in traffic!)

I have to attach pictures to show all three motor removed, with 428h chain an motor drive freewheel gear. showing bb with freewheel gear (L) and dual gears (R) to connect with other components (Chainwheel crank and rear wheel)

I have tried both at rear wheel using 7 speed freewheel and single gear. With 7 speed it was like having over or underdrive. Picking gear I wanted and useing 3 speed at Motor not uses gear change under speed @ rear wheel!! and I have several gear sets I like for single use 34t and 37t these use a 4 bolt freewheel. I can extend my mileage here and use MC 428h chain and gears on right side of bike. (although using the 7 speed freewhel gave me the best top end, mileage and ability to use pedals to change ratio when stopped)

I had no issues with bicycle chain on right side, but people asked or worried so I changed more for looks reasons ( ended up it looks really tough!!) But my bike is for cruisin... not for drag racing!

I am trying to come up with a new exhaust that is single from motor but at frame splits to 2 pipes and then what you will see are two 2 1/2" 14" 's in length, pipes open and short like Harley but up inside is restrictor plate about 8" 's from exit opening giving me expansion chamber in both. I am playing with different locations to mount restricter to shorten or increase chamber. (remember I have the total area of the two pipes)

Enjoy pictures one even shows left side of engine as we changed to MC drive sprocket

David
 

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Dan
to use like I am doing you will have to relocate chainwheel and cranks and add freewheel here to threaded crank.

then if you use like I am doing engine must have pull kick or electric start

if you choose to do regular way. take freewheel and have welded solid (4 or five spots on each side will secure) then with "STEEL" DT rear hub thread on left side of wheel use red locktight and again jam nut from BB axle kit

Now use clutch to freewheel bike, locking it open will let bike operate as originally intended use. Increase bear size on right side of bike (rear wheel) because you have to drag of moving motor chai when you pedal. If using multispeed rear freewheel no issues

I will show you how to make sprocket hub for center freewheel (see pictures again)

If you want to buy the parts, Locally in US see link I have attached and ask for Pablo. They are located in Carnation, Washington. Really good kids to deal with. (Tell them I said that and you might get Discount) :)

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/

What I am showing in these pictures is something I believe they "DO Not Make"! and you can choose to follow it's path to also secure lock ring to rear hub with several tack welds not much is needed as being secure on hub takes pressure. Tacks insure vibrations won't loosen it up( again safety)

enjoy
David
 

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Thanks David,

I have to tear the bile down to really understand it but I researched most of the night. Getting the brain going. I want something simple so I want to keep the coaster brake operational I realized that I would not be able to use a crank freewheel and have this happen. And after reading for a few hours I realized that a gas engine might be more trouble than it is worth. Still in the running but maybe second to an electric. For simplicity I am leaning to a motor mounted over the rear wheel behind the seat going direct to sprocket on left of rear wheel. For real simple it would be direct sprocket to sprocket via chain. For more advanced it could have a reduction with a freewheel so you do not have to overcome the motor while pedaling. Two batteries mounted on either side like saddle bags. More research and now I am thinking pusher.
 
Since you're new to motored bikes, I'd suggest you start a new thread and ask for suggestions on a more specific topic - it sounds like you're wishy washy about the whole concept.
 
Since you're new to motored bikes, I'd suggest you start a new thread and ask for suggestions on a more specific topic - it sounds like you're wishy washy about the whole concept.

Sorry Duct tape last post was just replying to David. I did not know you were so stringent on posts here. My last post did not ask any questions only a response. The freewheel is still an option no matter what method or power I choose. Topic could not be more specific than freewheeling.

Dan
 
Since you're new to motored bikes, I'd suggest you start a new thread and ask for suggestions on a more specific topic - it sounds like you're wishy washy about the whole concept.
Duck tape Goat...

Who said I was new to Bikes, or Powering Bicycles, I have been doing it for 30 years! I am new to this site and know most of the Suppliers who advertise here. I had Bike shop in Dayton Ohio for 15 years and Seattle for 6 before selling our Thai Restaurant in Seattle, retireing and moving everything to Thailand. I have a Major Bike Building Business here with 2 Factories one in Bangkok and the other with our Corporate Offices in Chiang Mai. I have drive 2cycle boats for all of my adult life at speeds you can barely dream of. Before going in service and getting hired by Mercury after discharged. I as Feild rep also who worked with customers and factory/dealers to get things fixed. Just because I am new to this site or listed as a Newby.. means I have not been on it for a while I have been a member since 2009 at the request of Manufacturers to help with questions.
 
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