Engine Trouble Died on me

clearance... the angle of the photo makes the bottom of the rotor look like its touching the magneto arm...

your magneto has fried. simple.

the blue wire is one end of a coil. the white wire is the end of a coil. the other ends of both coils are joined, and are soldered to the magnetos laminated core. that lil blob of solder with the single fine wire at the top. this point is then earth. you could remove the black wire and use any other point of the engine as earth as well. its all one big conductor :)

and as al says...remove the white wire when you get the new one. do NOT use it as a kill switch. guesses are that you did, just like the manual says :D

blue to black....theres no diodes, so it wouldnt matter which side you hooked the + of your meter to. infinite is open circuit is fried.

theres absolutely no connection between the spark plug lead and the blue wire coming from the coil. so theres no reading there either. the black is earth. you should get something from coil lead to black.


also set the killswitch to earth the blue wire. merely "breaking" the blue wire can cause arcing and subsequent magneto frying as huge unquenched back-emf currents have a party...
 
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clearance... the angle of the photo makes the bottom of the rotor look like its touching the magneto arm...

your magneto has fried. simple.

the blue wire is one end of a coil. the white wire is the end of a coil. the other ends of both coils are joined, and are soldered to the magnetos laminated core. that lil blob of solder with the single fine wire at the top. this point is then earth. you could remove the black wire and use any other point of the engine as earth as well. its all one big conductor :)

and as al says...remove the white wire when you get the new one. do NOT use it as a kill switch. guesses are that you did, just like the manual says :D

blue to black....theres no diodes, so it wouldnt matter which side you hooked the + of your meter to. infinite is open circuit is fried.

theres absolutely no connection between the spark plug lead and the blue wire coming from the coil. so theres no reading there either. the black is earth. you should get something from coil lead to black.


also set the killswitch to earth the blue wire. merely "breaking" the blue wire can cause arcing and subsequent magneto frying as huge unquenched back-emf currents have a party...

So you are saying hook the kill switch to the blue wire when I get the new magneto installed?
 
yep :) blue and black for the killswitch. most amazingly simple cdi ive ever played with :D

the white is a (low power) generator for a (low power) light :)

not sure how earthing it really works as a killswitch, it does, but in the long run kills the magneto too :)
 
So you are saying hook the kill switch to the blue wire when I get the new magneto installed?

Do not hook up the kill switch until you install new coil/CDI and get it started.
There are two wires coming from the kill switch...don't worry about colors. Hook 1 wire to the black wires CDI/coil and the 2 wire to the blue CDI/coil wires.
 
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how about just changing the kill switch to a toggle switch and use it to break the circuit on the blue wire, thus stopping engine as opposed to shorting the circuit like the origional setup does.
that way it prolongs the life of the electrics, the factory setup seems like their way of being able to sell spare parts that other wise dont usualy fail
 
cus if you "break" the blue wire, it can arc, and easily delivers a few hundred volts... capable of burning through cheap chinese varnish... doubt me? touch it when its running ;)

whereas shorting it results in a "quenching" of any EMF. no voltage, no go.

short the blue wire and just pretend the white doesnt exist :rolleyes:

once again als the man. dont bother hookin the killswitch up until it is running again...
 
Runs again. Replaced CDI and magneto. Fired up in first 5 feet of trying. Amazing stuff I say. Hopefully these components last a little longer than 600 miles.
 
oh ok i under stand now. im just paranoid about the whole shorting thing although you make a good point about quenching the system can it work on a keyed system as apposed to the factory push button? im a mechanic but i hate hate hate electrical work and try to avoid it at all cost
 
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