Sprockets Pictures of the operation and sprocket mount

My concern would be that by encasing the shell completely you are going to hinder the disapation of the heat generated from the coaster brake. Thus, cooking the grease and having premature hub failure.
You might want to "groove" some fins in the billet.
 
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My concern would be that by encasing the shell completely you are going to hinder the disapation of the heat generated from the coaster brake. Thus, cooking the grease and having premature hub failure.
You might want to "groove" some fins in the billet.

heck i ride my motor bike every where and my coaster setup never gets hot and my grease is the regular run of the mill axle if you are worried about heat build up get hi temp lithium grease problem solved
 
also the coaster brake should not be used on these bike all the time that is where you put on hand brakes and use hand brakes along with coasters
 
Regarding coaster brakes

I have the stock coaster and a caliper front brake on my Cranbrick that I have been driving since August 2010. I have made more than a few 'panic stops' with this set-up, once almost going over the handlebars. I weigh 200 pounds. I consider this brake combination competant for the bike.
 
i know what you mean sarge you gotta have more brake on those bikes they weigh so much im over 200 myself also and i love my cran brook also mighty fine bike i ride mine everywhere
 
My concern would be that by encasing the shell completely you are going to hinder the disapation of the heat generated from the coaster brake. Thus, cooking the grease and having premature hub failure.
You might want to "groove" some fins in the billet.
If anything, having a big block of aluminum clamped to the hub will enhance heat distribution. It will certainly take longer to get hot, and with the increased surface area of the hub+adapter, it should radiate heat much more easily. (Also, with the areas hogged out for bolt heads, the surface should allow convection heat transfer more easily as well.)
 
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