Carby my carb won't fit!!!

[danmarjon]

well, I put the carburetor issue on hold until I get someone to silver solder it for me, thanks for your help on that, but now am coming up with a few more issues, first my kit did not come with any kill switch, I thought I read somewhere that the new kits do not need one as the throttle will kill the engine. Is this correct? If so, how does this work? The other problem is I seem to have lost the instructions to this, haven't even looked at em. not sure if that would have explained the kill switch issue
also would it be advisable to tap some bolts into the frame to hold the tension bar in place? I don't want to take any chances of that coming loose
I'll post more pics when I done

 

[Big Red]

Kill Switch

No button on the throttle housing? I've seen a few without kill switches but not many. You can just buy a momentarily on switch (horn button type) and put it where you can reach it easily in an emergency.
I don't recommend drilling you frame. Take a look at the SHORT idler arm tensioner. It comes with four clamp bolts instead of two. And being shorter it takes more leverage to move it. It should work better and make you feel better about the strenght of the thing.
Big Red.

 

[danmarjon]

no button, so I guess the third wire (white) would be the kill wire? so I should either isolate this or run it through a switch to ground. thanks for your help. gettin ready to fire this mug up! I have not removed the head yet, should I for any reason?

 

[Big Red]

White wire

NO. Just cap off the white wire. Using it can shorten the life of the electrical system. You don't have to take just my word on this, ask almost anyone on this site. Simply hook one wire,NOT the white, to the blue wire comming from your engine. The other wire, NOT the white, To a ground on the engine or frame. The manufacturer of these engines HOPE you break it and have to buy a new one, or at least parts. Don't fall for it. CAP OFF THE WHITE WIRE. If you want, you can TRY using the WHITE wire to run a small light, although this hardly ever works very well. It pulls too much power from the electrics needed for the engine. EVERYONE will tell you to cap it off.
Big Red.

 

[Big Red]

Head

no button, so I guess the third wire (white) would be the kill wire? so I should either isolate this or run it through a switch to ground. thanks for your help. gettin ready to fire this mug up! I have not removed the head yet, should I for any reason?

On a new engine there is no reason to remove the head unless you're doing an upgrade.
Big Red.

 

[motorpsycho]

no do not drill and tap the frame....it will crack.
the only way an engine will shut off by the throttle is if the idle is turned down too low.
you should have a kill switch or button just in case.
do not hook the white wire to anything. Cap it off so there are no bare wires at the end.

 

[adrian101]

Electrical tape works well as a cap wrap the white wire in electrical tape

 

[motorpsycho]

Electrical tape works well as a cap wrap the white wire in electrical tape

Yeah as long as you don't mind having to replace it when it falls off. (electrical tape). electrical tape works, but it's only for temprary repairs in my opinion.
Do yourself a big favor and cut off all of the push together wire connectors because they will break or vibrate loose over time.
Solder all of your wire connections and cover them with heat shrink.
You can cap off the white wire with heat shrink, and it will stay on the wire until you cut it off.
I have heard about and seen a lot of engine starting troubles with these 2 strokes, and a lot of the time it comes down to poorly routed wiring, loose or broken connections,and wires hooked up wrong.
Do it right the first time (solder and heat shrink) and you will not have to worry about the wires coming loose or breaking at a connection.

 

[HeadSmess]

"GRRRRR! whats that ANNOYING little COUGH i get at 75 km?"

oops. ignition wire melting to the uber hot exhaust

stupid lack of nylon zip ties at the critical moments!

yes...take note of that " most faults come down to poorly routed wiring..."

and also note that when your digital speedo says youre doing 90 and you most obviously arent, its mounted too close to the coil...

it also makes LED flashlights turn on if you hold em close

 

[motorpsycho]

"GRRRRR! whats that ANNOYING little COUGH i get at 75 km?"

oops. ignition wire melting to the uber hot exhaust

stupid lack of nylon zip ties at the critical moments!

yes...take note of that " most faults come down to poorly routed wiring..."

and also note that when your digital speedo says youre doing 90 and you most obviously arent, its mounted too close to the coil...

it also makes LED flashlights turn on if you hold em close

this is why you should replace the stock spark plug wire with a longer, real, resistor spark plug wire and boot.
then you can re-locate the cdi behind the engine or under it like i did.
this will keep the spark plug wirte far away from the exhaust because you can route it on the backside of the engine. This will also help you hide the wiring that goes to the cdi for a cleaner look as well.