Chains 66cc HT shifts over and loosens chain during riding

Chain

Al's right Lazydog. If your using a hub adapter and you sprocket alignment is perfect then the 1/2" rule is right. If you're using a rag joint mount then it may not be as "perfect" as you would like. FIRST, Get the rag mount as close as possible. this may take some time but work at it untill you're satisfied it's as close as you're ever gonna get it. I've found the best way to adjust it then is to roll the bike untill you find the tight spot in the chain and sprockets. THEN use the 1/2" rule at that point.
Unless you've been doing this for a while and have done many, many rag joint sprocket mounts, it is very hard to get it "perfect". If you give it 1/2" at the loose point then your going to have it way too tight at the point where the chain gets tight due to back forth, back forth on the rear sprocket. You will have a little more than 1/2" at the loose point in the chain, but it won't be overly tight at it's tight point. I can get the rag's very close. I don't think I've ever got one PERFECT. I run mine a little loose( notice I said a little) to keep undue pressure off the chain and sprocket. If it gets too tight at the tight part of the process then you can rip out sprocket mount bolts and spokes.
Of course you can remedy this problem with a hub mount system. Due to the profit margin on these bikes I can't put them on every customer bike I build to sell, But I'm going to start using them on my personal bikes from now on. a hub mount is a MUST HAVE on a M.B. as far as I'm concerned. I here The Old Sarge is now in production and selling a very good one for a good price. Check it out on this site.
Big Red.
antiquegunsmith@hotmail.com _ http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33637&d=1318779884
 
Last edited:
I just did some more research and this bike is actually a steel frame. It's pretty lightweight which led me to believe it was aluminum.
 
slipping frame

I had the same problem with my bike and I went with the sick bike part adapter.
The main problem I had was the seat tube was to wide. so I set up the big tube adapter. I did eventually loosen up, but I only put two nuts on it to see how long it would last before coming apart. I went for about four months before it started to vibrate at certain RPMs. I remembered what I did and promptly double bolted the engine and its been smooth ever since.

Something else I did was to upgrade the hardware with a grade 8 set from SBP This included all of the parts that touch the engine. I then took all of the mounting hardware (10mm nuts) and double bolted them, working one against the other, I also went down to the hardware store and got both the red and blue lock-tight and went after anything that had threads.

I got a kings adapter for my Shimano Disk brake hub and guess what? That rattled loose too. Its now held together with helacoils and red lock tight.

There is something about these little 2-strokes that just loves to vibrate anything that has threads loose, Including fender mounts and stuff you would not even think would be a problem. My advice is double bolt, Lock-tight, lock washer and recheck things before you take off. Its better safe than In ICU.


mike
 
Last edited:
Back
Top