Stage 3 Simple Heavy Duty Clutch Solution

Ive stopped, Ive thought about this already.
Thats how I came to my conclusion Mr Barnfresh.
Yes, stronger springs will change the clutch engagement RPMs..................BUT....................
Just puting a few washers behind the original springs will not create stronger spring tension, it will only make the springs want to push the shoes outward easier/earlier.
If it was as easy as placing a few washers in there lots and heaps of members would be doing this instead of spending there hard earned on tougher springs.
I guess we will just have to wait for old mate to try it to see what will really happen??
Also lightening the clutch shoes by drilling weight from them will also make them slightly easier to pivot, thus making engagement earlier..................
Placing a few washers behind the springs is not creating more tension at all.


You can use the search engine on this site to find that the drill hole method to lighten the shoe is proven and tested. Since I have a bunch more torque I plan on using both the drill the hole method and maybe 2 or 3 washers.
 
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Ive stopped, Ive thought about this already.
Thats how I came to my conclusion Mr Barnfresh.
Yes, stronger springs will change the clutch engagement RPMs..................BUT....................
Just puting a few washers behind the original springs will not create stronger spring tension, it will only make the springs want to push the shoes outward easier/earlier.
If it was as easy as placing a few washers in there lots and heaps of members would be doing this instead of spending there hard earned on tougher springs.
I guess we will just have to wait for old mate to try it to see what will really happen??
Also lightening the clutch shoes by drilling weight from them will also make them slightly easier to pivot, thus making engagement earlier..................
Placing a few washers behind the springs is not creating more tension at all.

Well 2Cycle you had me second guessing myself on the spring tension thing so I went back to the Bicycle-Engines.com website to look at a breakdown of the clutch.

What I found was that they had a pretty elaborate bench testing setup to show exactly when their clutch engaged and locked in. They also explain exactly how to change the stall speed on their clutches to make it higher or lower. Care to guess how it's done.....that's right, by adding or removing washers under the springs.

www.bicycle-engines.com/images/honda-cc.pdf

If the link doesn't work just copy bicycle-engines.com/images/honda-cc.pdf to your browser.

Also your statement that lightening the clutch shoes by drilling weight from them will also make them slightly easier to pivot is not entirely correct. The shoes do not pivot rather they simply slide outward from the hub on 2 pins (against the spring tension). Being that the shoes have been lightned they should require more centrifugal force to overcome the (same) spring tension resulting in a higher RPM before the clutch engages.
 
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Well 2Cycle you had me second guessing myself on the spring tension thing so I went back to the Bicycle-Engines.com website to look at a breakdown of the clutch.

What I found was that they had a pretty elaborate bench testing setup to show exactly when their clutch engaged and locked in. They also explain exactly how to change the stall speed on their clutches to make it higher or lower. Care to guess how it's done.....that's right, by adding or removing washers under the springs.

www.bicycle-engines.com/images/honda-cc.pdf

If the link doesn't work just copy bicycle-engines.com/images/honda-cc.pdf to your browser.

Also your statement that lightening the clutch shoes by drilling weight from them will also make them slightly easier to pivot is not entirely correct. The shoes do not pivot rather they simply slide outward from the hub on 2 pins (against the spring tension). Being that the shoes have been lightned they should require more centrifugal force to overcome the (same) spring tension resulting in a higher RPM before the clutch engages.


Tooshay Mr barnfresh!!
Well I cant argue with that now, can I ??
Still dont seen logical to me though??:geek:
 
Oh, I said pivot cause I was looking at a pocket bike type clutch before I wrote that post, and must have been thinking about that one???
 
Well as soon as I find a way to beet the big payout the technical stuff comes along.
So anyway I wrote an email with the specs I need on the springs. So if tell me there like 30 buck or something Im getting some washers.
The other site guy gave me an estimate on the LBs per inch the stock clutch comes with and an accurate lbs per inch I want to get to is 60lbs/inch.
So the washers only have to be 20% of 21mm.
 
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Tooshay Mr barnfresh!!
Well I cant argue with that now, can I ??
Still dont seen logical to me though??:geek:

I happen to be polish and if your trying to get on team bideronit13 then I have some email's you can handle for me.
You know what the say but I kinda disagree that it takes 5 polocks to shim a spring.
 
Ive stopped, Ive thought about this already.
Thats how I came to my conclusion Mr Barnfresh.
Yes, stronger springs will change the clutch engagement RPMs..................BUT....................
Just puting a few washers behind the original springs will not create stronger spring tension, it will only make the springs want to push the shoes outward easier/earlier.
If it was as easy as placing a few washers in there lots and heaps of members would be doing this instead of spending there hard earned on tougher springs.
I guess we will just have to wait for old mate to try it to see what will really happen??
Also lightening the clutch shoes by drilling weight from them will also make them slightly easier to pivot, thus making engagement earlier..................
Placing a few washers behind the springs is not creating more tension at all.

Actually after looking at the bicycle-engines.com web site they already recomend using washers. Read it for yourself. Certainly I dont know what to say about your posts.

http://www.bicycle-engines.com/images/honda-cc.pdf
 
HD clutch

Actually after looking at the bicycle-engines.com web site they already recomend using washers. Read it for yourself. Certainly I dont know what to say about your posts.

http://www.bicycle-engines.com/images/honda-cc.pdf
Of course it will work Biderman, I don't know why 2cycle can't see it. The spring stay's in the same place, It just gets more tension on it with washers. You could put them on top or bottom with the same results. It will just take a few more RPM's before it ingages.
Big Red
 
I had a chat email with bicycle-engines and they have confirmed that the stage3 is still in production and that is comes with the same springs as the G4. So it engages at over 3000rpm but with unknown torque just rpm measure.
So I'd probley need a tachometer to prove but since my bike has alot of torque mine engage in a more choppy method since the torque is there.
I was waiting for the confirm so now I only have a wet clutch option to work with.
So in this situation the G4 would not be good because of no wet clutch option.
 
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