Is it worth fixing??

[Porkchop]

The “break” you’re referring to in the rings is called the “gap”. If the rings were solid with no gap, you would not be able to spread them to get them onto the piston. As far as previous remarks about the rings sticking out further on one side of the piston and not symmetrical all the way around is normal. The rings will move from side to side, so to say, until they are inserted into the cylinder. Once inserted down into the cylinder, the cylinder actually keeps them compressed so they fit tightly against the piston all the way around. And yes, the piston holds the rings in pace inside the cylinder, not the other way around. That and to provide compression. When the rings are on the piston and all is inserted inside the cylinder, there is still a minute gap between the ends of the rings. The ring gap is so small, all the compression will not travel through them as the piston is going up and down is so fast. The pins in the side of the piston is to keep the rings from rotating around on the piston and lining up with each other. If they were to line up with each other then you most likely would experience a considerable loss of compression. Most automobile engines I’ve ever fooled with have three rings. The gaps are equally spaced from one another. In a three ring application that would be 120° from each other. In a four ring application it would be 90° from each other.

 

[motorpsycho]

yes, i forgot to mention that the rings will "float" inside of their slots in the piston.
they should not rotate tho, and that's what the pins are for.
porkchop is 100% correct.
To me, it doesn;t look like the rings are broken and the pins appear to be there.
so, what are thos peices of "bearing"??
i find it hard to beleive, but they just may be crank bearings as suspected.
something obviously went through the cylinder between the piston and the bore.
the only way to really find out if it is crank bearings is to split the case and have a look.
if it were me, i'd just buy a new engine (not a complete kit, but just the engine) but i have no idea what your $$ situation is.

 

[Porkchop]

I haven't priced Crappy Time bare bones engines lately, but obviously the piston & rings need to be replaced. Probably has serious cylinder damage along with what appears to be crank and/or rod bearings which might incur a need for a new rod and crank shaft along with rod and/or crank bearings as well. As previously said, you’ll never know unless you take the whole engine apart. I have not taken one all the way down in years. I don’t remember all the details, but it was pretty simple and easy to put back together. Of course with this engine, what have you got to loose. I think it would be cheaper and less hassle to rebuild this one even if it is rebuildable. If and when you do take the engine all the way down, please post photos and keep us posted Just my $.02 !!!

 

[motorpsycho]

not the best vendor according to some (i've had good luck with them) but the price is right in my opinion. a lot less hassle than re-building, and making sure that it's right when done.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorized-B...436?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bd9552d4

here's another one, but I'm unfamiliar with this vendor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-6...035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b867efd3

you can get a new cylinder, new piston and new rings from bgf too.
but, the price is about 1/2 of what a complete new engine is. then of corse if you old engine has crankshaft, connecting rod and bearing damage, you'd probably have the same amount of money invested to re-build than to just buy a whole new engine. you'd have to get all new gaskets, bearings, possibly a connecting rod and possibly a crankshaft, plus the hassle of doing the work. I know, it can be a learning experience and it isn't a bad idea to re-build to learn. but, if time is a concern, then a whole new engine is the way i'd go. but if you've never re-built one, and you end up doing something wrong, your money spent on parts is down the drain.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorized-B...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27be886503

of corse these parts all depend on what engine you have now because i've read that some internal parts are not interchangeable even tho these engines are pretty much all the same basic design externally. buying a whole new engine will also give you a brand new magneto, intake manifold, sprocket, and clutch. but that's not saying that you'll get a good one, because as you know, ALL of these engines can have issues and it's a **** shoot whenever you buy one.
just my opinion.

 

[Tyler6357]

What to get

I am totally willing to purchase a new 2 stroke engine (crappy time?). It's not like buying one of these things is going to break me. My current engine is this one (T80) --> http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-6...035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b867efd3. I don't mind spending a little more for a slightly better built engine. My engine is only 5 months old and I have driven it less than 500 miles. I was pretty disappointed that it broke so quickly. Are most of these 66cc, 2 stroke engines so poorly made? I was thinking about getting one of these Grubee Skyhawk motors---> http://www.kingsmotorbikes.com/grub...bike-motor-only-standard-finish_2909_prd1.htm Has anyone gotten one of these? Are they any good? Are they better than my T-80? I saw this one ----> http://www.bikeberry.com/jet-silver-66cc-80cc-bicycle-engine-kit.html It seems relatively inexpensive but I don't know anything about it. This one looks cheap----> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorized-B...436?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bd9552d4 but it is a pile of junk? I don't mind spending a little more if the thing will go 3000 miles before it breaks.
My second problem is that I live in CA and none of the best vendors will send these engines to CA. We have an oppressive leftist government here that have outlawed sending 2 stroke engines into the state. The thing gets 150 mpg and they still claim it is bad for the environment. Leftists Suck!!
I have a friend in NV that I might be able to send it to and then have them send it to me. What do you guys recommend? Which engine would you get if you were me? One of these or something else??
Thanks

 

[Tyler6357]

hmmmmm, none of my links worked. please copy and paste them into your browser. Sorry about that

 

[Porkchop]

Yo Tyler, I'm by no means an expert on these engines. But from all that I've gathered here in the past couple of years as a member on this forum, people say that Grubees are the best. Thy may be, but how much better are they than all the others. Most folks say the 48cc engines are a little better in general than the 66cc engines. Mostly when it comes to vibration factor. Do a little research on Don Grubee if you haven't already. That will enlighten you on the Grubees and how they came about. As I said, I'm by no means an expert, Me personally, I have a friction drive with a Honda, 4 stroke 35cc engine. I have also used the same set up with a 52cc 2 stroke from the all time classic Harbor Freight auger. No quarrels with either engine. Good luck, and don't forget to post photos of what you find if you take the engine all the way down. You've got a good cliff hanger here that I think a lot of folks are interested in seeing and finding out what the problem is, or was ! Good luck !

 

[Tyler6357]

Yo Tyler, I'm by no means an expert on these engines. But from all that I've gathered here in the past couple of years as a member on this forum, people say that Grubees are the best. Thy may be, but how much better are they than all the others. Most folks say the 48cc engines are a little better in general than the 66cc engines. Mostly when it comes to vibration factor. Do a little research on Don Grubee if you haven't already. That will enlighten you on the Grubees and how they came about. As I said, I'm by no means an expert, Me personally, I have a friction drive with a Honda, 4 stroke 35cc engine. I have also used the same set up with a 52cc 2 stroke from the all time classic Harbor Freight auger. No quarrels with either engine. Good luck, and don't forget to post photos of what you find if you take the engine all the way down. You've got a good cliff hanger here that I think a lot of folks are interested in seeing and finding out what the problem is, or was ! Good luck !

yeah, I don't know if I'm going to mess with this engine anymore. I don't think it's worth my time for an $80 engine. I will probably just see if I can get my friend in NV to send me a Grubee for $150. I just hope it really is worth 2 $80 junk engines.

 

[Porkchop]

If you're going to get a new engine, do us all a favor at tear down the bad one and post photos so we can all know what happened and/or know where those bearings came from. I think you hve eveyrone's curiosity up on this particular issue !

 

[Tyler6357]

Al... I need your expert help!!

First of all are they actually "BALL" bearings, meaning that they are round? Or do they look like broken needle bearings? The only place you will find a ball bearing is from the 2 crankshaft bearings, and if so the engine has to be split to replace them. Here is a picture tutorial of taking the engine down.
http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Chinese HT breakdown/

Okay, I have gotten to step 29-30 where you take the 10 tooth gear off. It says:

"The 10 tooth gear is keyed with a woodruff key (1/2 moon) and gear removal should/can be done with the gear multi tool. Proper tools (box wrenches) and method of using the multi tool. When using the tool, back out the threaded center. Thread the tool into the 10 tooth gear and tighten till it bottoms out. This is important as there are not that many threads and can either strip the threads on the gear, tool, or both if not installed correctly. Hold tool and turn the threaded pin. This should slide the gear off the shaft.

I don't think I have this tool. Is there any way to get it off without that tool or do I have to buy one? What exactly is it called? A "gear multi tool"? Where do I go? Home Depot??

Thanks!