Crashes I nearly bought the farm due to the dreaded high speed wobblies.

Here is another thought, sure to poke somebody to ask, "Just why?".

I will try a few rides with the shocks currently installed. They are great shocks on a smooth road doing 25 mph in a frame with heavy rider but no 30 pounds of engine, tank, etc. I will tighten its nuts and bolts before doing higher-speed engined runs.

But if the wheel wobbles at any speed below 40 mph, its days as the shocks which Rock Shox sold are done. I intend to remove the spring and drain the oil out of the product. I will then insert the sliding tubes in the housing, and slide the tubes almost all the way down. Then I plan on drilling quarter-inch holes, several of them, through the tubes and insert bolts. The intent is to prevent any motion relative to the tubes. Essentially, the shocks I have now will become fixed hard forks. There will be no chance of reversing this.

Why? If tolerances for shocks that are good on a non-motorized bike result in wheel wobble on a motorized bike, I will just do away with the the tolerances. Radical idea? Probably. But a new front fork that I like costs over $100. AND the lower head bearing needs replacing, which means I borrow a special bicycle shop tool, or the wrenchers which I have little faith in, must install the new bearing.

Some readers will say, "You will destroy the shock!" Yup, they will be re-purposed. I have no other bike to put the unaltered shocks on, and I am not giving them away. If my concept works, I saved $100. If it fails, I will spend the $100 then. But there is no way I am going to risk scraping my old hide on any paved road.

I hope the tightening of axle, stem, preloading, and maybe a stiffer spring, will do the job.

MikeJ

Added Later - I read earlier today that Harley sells some device to place on their Dyna Glide shocks for what they readily acknowledge as the Dyna Glide Wobble. How or why the device works is a little beyond me at this moment. But I did realize that the tiny bit of flex in forks at high speed is the cause of some pretty good tumbles. Solid front forks remain an option until testing is done and evaluated.
 
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I was going down a steep hill about a year ago and my back tire started to wobble and locked up on me. I slide for about 60 ft and the bike kept falling over and i had to kick my self back up straight so i didn't crack my head open. The bearings fell out and it was all over with after that. By the time it was done with the tire was folded over. My dad thought i hit a curb cause the tire was folded in half. Keep your bearings greased is the point of this post.

I have a rim from the 50's with a grease fitting for the bearings its sweet. I dont have to take my wheel off to grease em just hook up the grease gun.
 
High speed wobbles hapen due to weight being in the wrong place. A common cause is placing weight two far forward. A handlebar bag on a road bike is a bad idea. The geomitry of the frame and fork is very different between different models of bicycles. Yes taking your hands of of the handlebars will put less weight forward and cause the wobble to stop. A safer way is to use a knee against the top tube or grasp it with one hand and the wobble will stop. Notice the speed at witch it happens and keep below this speed to avoid it. Frame damage or improper alignment could also have some bearing on what causes it. I purchase my wife a mountain bike shortly after we were married. It was not a cheap one. The front wheel was damaged from shipping so the manager traded a front wheel from a same model. A couple of months later we were comming down a windy canyon road and I heard a scream. She was so scared of the wobble she almost did a head on with an comming traffic. I managed to get next to here and grabed her seat rail and slowed her down. She was in no condition to listen or react while the wobble was going on. After we stopped I coached her on how to stop the wobble and to keep below the speed where it happened if posible. I got here to create the situation one more time and obsereved her take the appropiate action to stop the wobble. We pedalled to the shop where I purchased it. I couldn't see any visible damage to frame or fork and the shop where we purchased had no frame tools. The owner contacted Nishiki and they traded out the bicycle a week later. We never had the problem again. If you look up this issue on the web. You will find very little on loose bearings or worn shock forks being the cause.
 
If you look up this issue on the web. You will find very little on loose bearings or worn shock forks being the cause.

I think that's simply because it's is not very well understood. Better yet, ask a seasoned, knowledgeable (rare) bike mechanic.

A misaligned frame is fairly easy to do a quick check with the simple string method but issues with a bad frame will usually make themselves plainly apparent at slow speeds as well.
 
I bought a new 650 dual purpose m/c and it had knobbies on it. Well I was going on the freeway with those grooves cut into the road for traction
[?] doing about 70mph. Wobbles hit me and I thought I was going to die it was so bad. Next time I'm putting 70/30 street tires on the bike, its long gone now but next couple of years will get another. I never knew they made street/dirt tires till I checked into it.
 
Hi All -

I am happy to report that my current build exceeded 30 mph today with NO wobbling front wheel.

I tightened a couple of spokes, a few nuts and bolts, and added 5 turns of preload to the shock spring. The ride is stiffer, but the results are what I am looking for.

Am going to prep for a 30 mile ride yet tonight, maybe a 100-miler tomorrow if weather is good.

Many thanks for all your inputs!

MikeJ
 
Consider also that the steering angle is steeper on a bicycle than on a motorcycle (around 30 degrees) which makes it more "twitchy". Since I am a speed freak I take into consideration that angle when buying a bike. If you install longer forks then that increases the steering angle. Also a fork that places the axle more forward make the front end more stable.
 
malvern star can take alot of speed ( i have tested it w/o a motor up to those speeds) and i would much prefer it to my crappy old kmart bike at 20mph
 
A couple days ago: Took my bike up to 40.2 mph / 56 kph without wobbles. Going downhill with a 30 mph tailwind. Backed off my engine throttle and just coasted. Credit a highly tensioned front fork and more detail to tightening up nuts, bolts, headset, tire pressure, etc., for the safe ride. Also had added counterweights to front wheel to balance it.

40 mph while under only engine power? No thanks, I will pass.
 
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