clutch slipping in bell - cleaner?

kallsop

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Which cleaner do you recommend to clean the inside of a clutch bell and the clutch friction material? I think I got something slippery in there during assembly and the clutch is slipping under load. The engine clutch is almost new and was ok, because the engine ran on another friction drive bike before and it worked great on the other bike
 
Mineral Turpentine (Turps) works terrifically for removing oil and grease and anything else - To quote Kramer: Once you've tried turps to remove oil and grease and stubborn friends, you'll never go back!
 
you might try auto brake cleaner.. then lightly sand the pads and heavy sand the bell..
 
Which cleaner do you recommend to clean the inside of a clutch bell and the clutch friction material? I think I got something slippery in there during assembly and the clutch is slipping under load. The engine clutch is almost new and was ok, because the engine ran on another friction drive bike before and it worked great on the other bike

Purple power will work good. I dont like clutches they are just another part to go wrong. My friction doesn't have a clutch! I can still put it in neutral! what friction kit do you have?
 
I like centrifugal clutches (a lot) - nothing has gone wrong with mine after a very simple modification...

Your friction drive doesn't have a clutch to wear out - bravo 2stroker bravo - your bumblebum friction drive just wears out tyres!!! --- sorry that was a typo: bumblebum - - - should have been Bumblebee...
 
Brake cleaner was mentioned which is good because it's alcohol based, or use just alcohol, either denatured or isopropyl.

It would be nice if someone could just post a question n a thread and get an answer without it turning into a match of personal preferences or some kind of validation for their choices. A centrifugal clutch is a great and forgiving solution to motorizing a bicycle, it powers down the drive spindle automatically on a friction drive with just backing off the throttle. It allows one to effortlessly motor and idle in traffic without attention to it. Probably most important to me is it easily allows a drive assembly to be utilized that has two supporting bearings on both ends of the drive spindle thereby eliminating much of the load on the engine crankshaft assembly and bearings. But of course many of us who have been doing this for years know all of that with many thousands of miles as testament to reliable use. This is not to say that a direct drive set-up attached to the engine sans centrifugal clutch is wrong, in fact most DIY friction drives have just that set-up and folks get a lot of fun out them. Still, given the option and being able to afford the upgrade, I would prefer a centrifugal clutch every time.
 
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I like centrifugal clutches (a lot) - nothing has gone wrong with mine after a very simple modification...

Your friction drive doesn't have a clutch to wear out - bravo 2stroker bravo - your bumblebum friction drive just wears out tyres!!! --- sorry that was a typo: bumblebum - - - should have been Bumblebee...

For a person that has gone through 8 kits to my 1 you sure are quick to put something down you have never tried!! I have had the same tire for over 2,000miles now. You need a kit that you have to work on and tweak and modify to get the performance and reliability that you need i need a kit that i can just take outta the box and ride for thousands miles. I have job and a family i dont have time to tweak and modify and fix broken spokes, sprockets, chain tensioners, clutches, clutch cables and so on. Theres none of that on my kit. So have fun i know i have a blast when i ride to work everyday 30miles!!!
 
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Thanks for the advice. It's a Honda GX35 on a thatxdax friction drive, for now anyway, and I also have one Staton friction drive bike currently running a Mitsubishi TLE-43. Another thatxdax friction drive bike is running a monsterscooterparts 49cc engine. I like the one way bearing in the thatsdax drive and miss that in the Staton. All friction drives have been totally reliable, except for the occasional engine issue like the air filter falling off but you can't blame the friction drive for that. I use the Bell Comfort Tire with Kevlar from Walmart and those work well. Friction drive + reliable engine is simple and hard to beat, although it's not ideal in the rain.
 
Thanks for the advice. It's a Honda GX35 on a thatxdax friction drive, for now anyway, and I also have one Staton friction drive bike currently running a Mitsubishi TLE-43. Another thatxdax friction drive bike is running a monsterscooterparts 49cc engine. I like the one way bearing in the thatsdax drive and miss that in the Staton. All friction drives have been totally reliable, except for the occasional engine issue like the air filter falling off but you can't blame the friction drive for that. I use the Bell Comfort Tire with Kevlar from Walmart and those work well. Friction drive + reliable engine is simple and hard to beat, although it's not ideal in the rain.
I like the honda GX35 thats a good to. They used the u-channel design. I agree with the Friction+ reliable engine is simple and hard to beat. My kits has run 4,000 miles and all i have done is change the drive wheel a few time! Whats your kits rpm's?
 
2stroker, you keep shooting yourself in the foot - i don't know what your logic is for repeatedly doing so. Maybe you're a masochist?

Yes, i have gone through 7 engines with my 8th engine being superbly reliable with basic upgrades using the Jaguar CDI and correct carburettor jetting.
I have only ever installed 1 centrifugal clutch; currently attached to my 8th engine which just happens to have passed the 8,000 kilometer mark.

2stroker, it's coming across loud and clear (from your posts) that you are filled with bile and spite - just give up on it...

I could be wrong and i'm all too happy to be proven wrong - in fact i want to be proven wrong in this case, for the betterment of all of us that have to listen to you...
 
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