1999 Whizzer rear belt

jroyse

Member
Local time
5:15 AM
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
106
Location
Shelby Township, Mich
Don't think mine has the correct rear belt. Can somebody get me a length and part number for one? This slipping belt thing is driving me nuts. Been fighting this all summer. I have moved the engine, played with the cable adjustment, went thru 3 front belts, moved the rear wheel, all to no avail. If I get things tight enough to run the bike, it will stall at idle due to belt drag. If I go looser everything slips then I can't even get up the driveway or pedal start the bike. AAAHHHHHRRRRGGG!!!

Jim
 
More info on the above question. My current front belt is a NAPA 28.5 inch. The engine is as far forward as possible. No more room in the mounting slots. The rear belt is a 62 inch and the rear wheel on't go into the frame slots, so I need a longer belt on the rear- or a shorter belt on the front. Good grief I'm going broke buying belts and still can't ride the thing. Hate to say this but my other bike, a Chins bike runs perfect.
Jim
 
If you moved your engine back you should be able to move your rear wheel back.


Sounds right but if I move the engine back that will loosen the front belt. I'm about one or two days away from parting out this bike. Nothing seems to work. The belt set up just doesn't look like its ever going to work. I currently have 7 belts and have tried every combination. I get one tight the other slips, get them both tight the engine stalls. I'm at my wits end.
 
Hi jroyse,

While it can be a challenge, it is possible to make the manual clutch work on the new edition Whizzers.

The majority of the problem is caused by mis-understandings. The object is to make the "clutch" work correctly by first adjusting the front belt. It will help if I explain the differences between the vintage Whizzer clutch and the new edition version. The vintage system had a special clutch handle and had a longer throw, meaning it pulled the clutch arm a longer distance, secondly the clutch arm attached to the motor with pin not a bolt for a much tighter fit. To add to the problem the clutch arm wasn't the correct length causing the front belt to rub the bottom of the belt guard mounting post, and of course using a FHP belt around small pulleys was another minor issue. The FHP belt runs hot and often trys to enguage the clutch at idle when stopped.

Sounds like you already obtained the correct front belt [15285] and has notches to work around smaller pulleys.

I would suggest you remove the rear belt from the sheave, loosen all the motor mount bolts, move the motor as far to the rear as possible and determine what needs to be done to make the front belt tighter. If the spring isn't pulling the arm high enough to pull the belt tight, shorten the spring. Don't forget to loosen the clutch cable adjustment to allow the arm to move as high as possible. Next I would tighten the bottom motor mount bolt, place a wedge [use wood] between the top rear of the motor and force the motor forward untill the belt is "snug", not extra tight. Next check and adjust the clutch cable to make sure the belt loosens enough to release the front belt when stopped, and must be set with the metal belt guide installed [was part of the belt guard on early versions]. When satisfied it is working close to correct, tighten all the motor mount bolts. Install the rear belt on the sheave and make sure it doen't pull the clutch downward in the process.

The AX numbers on the rear belt doesn't translate to actual length. An AX 62 is 64" long, AX 61 is 63" long, etc. Always use AX or automotive wedge belts because of the small pulleys.

You are welcome to contact me direct and I can "talk" you through the process.

Have fun,
 
Thanks!! Thats what I needed to hear. Went thru the steps today. Seems like I've done this a hundred times now. Looks like it may work this time but the pedal chain is to short now, but thats an easy fix. I'll let you know how this turns out.

Many thanks to you and everybody for the help.
Jim
 
You can get 1/2 links & master links for the pedal chain. Some of my bike's pedal chains have 1/2 links in them
 
Went thru the procedure at least 3 more times, step by step. Results are always the same. Belts slip too much to pedal start the bike so I start it on my home stand. Then it stalls when I take off the stand due to belt drag. When I get a helper to man the throttle while I get the bike on the ground it wants to take off again due to belt drag. So I run and jump on and all is fine till I have to stop or it stalls now I'm done cause it won't re-start - belt slips. also slips going up hill.
I appreciate all the help but nothing is working. I just don't get how it can be so difficult to do this. I just pulled the transmission out of my car with no problem but can't fix a bike. This just isn't right.
Jim
 
After many more tweaks and belt adjustments I'm getting real close, thanks to your well explained process. Good grief, it just takes a lot of trial and error work. I put the front belt bolt on adjuster back on and somehow got things pretty close. From there it a series of tweaks to the rear belt. I now can start and ride the bike with no slippage but still have some problems at idle. I have been loosening the rear very, very slightly and have gotten pretty close. A few more and I hope to cure the idle.
Can't thank you and everybody enough for all the help. I was just about ready to sell the bike.
Jim :)
 
My 99 Whizzer has an automatic clutch. It originally came with the manual & I always had to rev it a little when the clutch was disengaged to keep it running.
 
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