Rate Your Satisfaction

  • Thread starter Deleted member 12676
  • Start date

Rate your satisfaction

  • I'm satisfied with its good performance.

    Votes: 4 66.7%
  • It's lacking so I'm willing to spend over $100 on it.

    Votes: 1 16.7%
  • It's lacking but I won't spend more than $100 on it.

    Votes: 1 16.7%
  • It sucks and I won't spend another dime on it.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • It sucks and I'm looking to sell it to some sucker.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    6
D

Deleted member 12676

Guest
Tell us all how satisfied/dissatisfied you are with your 2 stroke engines performance (power, reliability, vibration).
If you have already modified it then your poll entry can reflect either the before or after state, just tell us which in your post.
For me it is a matter of which engine and what its use is.
For street use I am happy with my 60cc (piston port intake, 18mm Mikuni, custom extended intake manifold w/20mm I.D., increased compression, redirected transfers, ported for a bit more rpm and better breathing, Jaguar CDI, Honda high voltage coil, lighter wrist pin)
For racing around and bicycle motocross I am happy with my 55cc (reed valve intake, 18mm Mikuni, custom reed valve to carb manifold, torque pipe, increased compression, redirected transfers, ported for 8300 rpm and better breathing, Jaguar CDI, Honda high voltage coil, lighter wrist pin)
 
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I've done a lot of km's and have had no problems at all. It's a stock engine, carb, CDI, chain tensioner, exhaust and everything. I just pull it out of the shed, it starts first go and it runs until I stop it. It's also fast enough to be scary on the corrugated roads I ride on. My main use is to ride to the next town over which is a 16km (10 mile) round trip and it serves that purpose very well!
 
Fabian, it would be most interesting if you gave a before and after-modifications rating and tell us what mods you have done.
 
If we call the "before" a completely standard engine, then the "after" would include the following list of improvements; non of which make the engine any more powerful or make the bike go any faster, but do significantly improve engine reliability and quietness:

Engine upgraded to a crowded needle roller big end connecting rod bearing, though most new engines these days come with this updated feature as standard,
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Modified pull-start,
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Modified centrifugal clutch,
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Modified clutch cable setup on the engine, routing clutch cable around a roller bearing pulley to the clutch arm; drastically reducing clutch lever effort,
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Rock Solid Engines high compression cylinder head,
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CR Machine manufacturing Twin Spark Plug cylinder head with no compression release hole,
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CR Machine Manufacturing Twin Spark Plug cylinder head with compression release hole which is tapped for a spark plug thread.
I run the cylinder head with three spark plugs to reduce the compression ratio,
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Rock Solid Engines billet intake tube (later on discarded for the reed valve intake),
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Rock Solid Engines Reed valve Intake,
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Rock Solid Engines (Walbro style) diaphragm carburettor with a Rock Solid Engines reed valve adapter kit,
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2 1/2 feet of half inch internal diameter chemical resistant high temperature silicone hose attached onto the end of the standard exhaust, which significantly reduces noise,
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SickBikeParts exhaust port studs,
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CR Machine Manufacturing modified OEM piston with machined exhaust port ramps and transfer port ramps,
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Magnecor Spark Plug Leads,
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NGK BR8HIX Iridium Spark Plug,
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Jaguar CDI and coil, set to the lowest ignition advance curve,
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Standard exhaust flange port matched to exhaust gasket,
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Koso fast response Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge,
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TTS cylinder head temperature gauge,
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Left hand side case half modified to accept a crankcase pulse line to enable fitment of a diaphragm carburettor,
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Tried and discarded the use of a genuine Dellorto carburettor; clone Dellorto carburettor and NT carburettor, finally replacing the float style carburettor and installing a (Walbro style) diaphragm carburettor,
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SickBikeParts K&N air filter,
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and soon to be installed combination 5 amp generator and electric start system and 8 amp hour lithium battery with a 12 volt accessory socket to enable use of heated motorcycle clothing as well as being able to run a laptop/tablet PC or to charge a mobile phone or various other electronic devices.
 
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be nice if there were a choice "it's lacking & I spend a lot of time keeping it going 'cause I have no money"
 
I have 66cc China 2-stroke on a Schwinn cantilever frame with mountain bike front forks and a disc brake.

There are two significant drive system mods I've made. The first was a Jaguar CDI which produced a noticeable drop in vibration at high rpms and quicker, smoother pickup from about 3/4 throttle. The engine has a deeper, more growly tone at high rpms too. The second mod was a Manic Mechanic 48 tooth chainwheel for towing and hill-climbing. (Some may not see that as significant, but I disagree.)

There are a few minor improvements, like all grade 8 steel in the engine hardware, an NGK iridium plug, a Kip spinger chain tensioner. Even more minor are a toggled kill switch and some grips and a throttle off a mini-bike. These all add up to reliability.

Exactly once, I looked down and saw my speedo saying "34.6." I must have had a tailwind because the bike normally tops out at 31.5–31.8. That's faster than I need to go. My bike just loves to go between 19-21 mph, and she does not really even notice hills, even with a loaded trailer. That was what I had in mind for my first design, and I succeeded.

This April, I'll be seeing the race in SoCal. I'm gonna start thinking about a real race bike for my next build.

Also, I am wondering what it would take to make a 50cc bike go a hundred miles an hour. A full fairing? A recumbent in which the fairing serves as a monocoque nacelle? That would be the Bonneville style bike...

Mwa-Hah-Hah <-- That's my mad scientist. evil laugh.

[EDIT: Just looked that up. It can more than be done: http://buddfab.net/buddfabhomepage.html]
 
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I have a Huffy Cranbrook with a 49 cc 2 stroke that I bought from an ebay vendor. I think it was Lucky Early Bird.

I am entirely satisfied. But.........I am a very experienced bicycle rider. I know how to ride a bike without beating it to death. This issue is magnified with a motorized bicycle; you have to be even more sensitive to shocks and stresses on the bike for it's own sake and for your own. These bikes can also beat the rider to death.

And we all know that these bikes, and particularly the cheaper kits, need constant tinkering. My skills as a bicycle mechanic plus my ability to learn, sometimes from mistakes, about these engines and kits have played a large part in my success.

I'm honestly not trying to boast here. I'm trying to point out the fact that those who know bicycles well are likely to do better than those who don't.

Those who don't particularly love bicycles or have much experience with them are almost certainly doomed to failure. God Bless 'Em and best of luck, says I. It's just that I'm not too confident that they'll be all that satisfied.

To put it in something like Zen terms; you have to become one with the bicycle.

Those who do will answer this poll one way, those who don't will answer it another way.
 
I'm running a Tanaka PF4000 with a GEBE.Zero problems, Z E R O, like driving the Volvo equivalent.Great power easy starts, the only mod so far is a cigar silencer with no change in performance, more concerned with tire/belt problems.I'm going to work the intake end as it's still a bit raspy.A bit expensive, but it's worth the $$ for a trouble free ride, so much better to be able to ride from day one instead of constant fixes/tweaks.
 
I'm very satisfied with my Scooterguy-mounted Tanaka 47R engine w/8-speed shift kit. This engine has it all. When using its engine-specific 3-piece pipe, it's very quiet. The only drawback is chain jumping, which normally ends up in chain breaking. That and derailleur breakages. My next build will have an 8-speed internal hub. That should eliminate chain jumping/breaking.
 
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