lighting problem

If power was my thingy, I would have a full blown crotch rocket. But, so long as it gets me down the road at 10-12 mph with good mileage, I am satisfied.

For last month, my 12v ac 6 watt bottle dynamo appears to be doing it's thing as to charging the 7 amp SLA battery with no problems. It started at 13-13.5 volts and still maintains that voltage. I have read that resulting rectified pulsating direct current, does a better job of charging a battery than a capacitor/regulated direct current.

So your using the rectifier between the dynamo and battery?
I'm like everyone else; I want to know if somethings going to work, or how it works before I start spending. You didn't state how long you've been running with a rectifier, and I'll admit I'm slightly weary of using something from radio shack on a motor vehicle, but I am motivated by both legalities, and the one night I was riding home from work on a long stretch of dark pot hole ridden street not knowing what was in front of me until it was to late.
I may have just wasted 28 bucks too, and I have to budget this hobby a bit at a time also. I may end up getting the rectifier after all.

This is what I found.
https://www.treatland.tv/trail-tech-voltage-regulator-p/trail-tech-regulator.htm
 
My philosophy concerning MB lighting is pretty simple.

1. You want every ounce of power your little 2-stroke motor can produce to the wheel unencumbered by anything correct?
Anything you attach to share that power be it the Aux magneto wire or any tire rubbing or hub generated power is robbing you of that motion power with a load to generate electricity because unless you have some system to generate power using a gen as a brake you are using your gas and power to do it.

2. Lithium Ion Re-Chargeable Batteries are cheap now, hold a big punch, and can power all your lighting needs for weeks if not months with 'blow you away' 1200 Lumen lights before they need a simple AC quick quick connect AC pack charge.

Just food for thought for you but that is how I do it.
Thanks for the tip. I will look into lithium batteries now.
I wanted something for transportation and durability to and from work, so I went with a steel frame, and a 4 stroke. Yesterday I cruised at 30 mph on a slight upgrade. I have saddlebags for groceries, and I notice the difference in the load. With the EZM tranny I know I'm getting over 125 mpg. Its not as nice as your builds though.
20130323211346.jpg
 
So your using the rectifier between the dynamo and battery?
I'm like everyone else; I want to know if somethings going to work, or how it works before I start spending. You didn't state how long you've been running with a rectifier, and I'll admit I'm slightly weary of using something from radio shack on a motor vehicle, but I am motivated by both legalities, and the one night I was riding home from work on a long stretch of dark pot hole ridden street not knowing what was in front of me until it was to late.
I may have just wasted 28 bucks too, and I have to budget this hobby a bit at a time also. I may end up getting the rectifier after all.

This is what I found.
https://www.treatland.tv/trail-tech-voltage-regulator-p/trail-tech-regulator.htm

Yes, the rectifier is installed before battery, otherwise would be ac going to battery.


As stated in post #10: For last month, my 12v ac 6 watt bottle dynamo appears to be doing it's thing as to charging the 7 amp SLA battery with no problems.
 
Yes, the rectifier is installed before battery, otherwise would be ac going to battery.


As stated in post #10: For last month, my 12v ac 6 watt bottle dynamo appears to be doing it's thing as to charging the 7 amp SLA battery with no problems.

I ordered the 3 dollar rectifier from Radio Shack, thanks.
 
Good find. I use one as well, and it rectifies at least 5 amps at 12-14 volts, and has for over a year. Install it, forget it, and fuss over something else.
 
Just a note about rectifying AC to DC...

You turn AC to DC with a DIODE.
In short a diode only allows current to pass 1 way.
1 diode in line with AC and you get pulsed DC, with 4 in a 'full rectifier bride' configuration you get continuous DC.

Now LED stands for Light Emiting DIODE.
Though there are LED bulbs with 2 diodes each that will light a different color for each polarity the point is these lights are diodes themselves.

You could hook 4 LED lights direct to the dyno in a bridge configuration and 1/2 the lights would get full power all the time.
 
KC, you are obviously right about AC/DC conversion. But that's all the RS rectifier is. Just diodes connected for full wave rectification. For $3 RS relieved me of the inconvenience of making those connections - and in my case perhaps mis-wiring. FYI to all, you want a full wave rectifier or your alternator will only be working half of the time.
 
KC, you are obviously right about AC/DC conversion. But that's all the RS rectifier is. Just diodes connected for full wave rectification. For $3 RS relieved me of the inconvenience of making those connections.
Exactly, one cheap little package with the 4 diodes in it with two ~ AC inputs and a + and - output, perfect for most applications.

My point was more for do-it-yourselfer's rigging their own LED's making it clear that the lights themselves are diodes and configured in a bridge work just dandy.
 
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