No Spark

Push the kill switch while trying to pedal start the engine. Sometimes they stick. My 2004 48cc does this every once in a while, usually I kill the engine by releasing the clutch. If I use the kill switch, sometimes it doesn't start until I pedal and push the kill switch several times.

If you want to test the CDI unit, here's a no-start guide to help you along. You can test it with a DMM.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aBeJuoS--VQWwXysc07rpscTUbPzgc93xjiQBgsyFjc/edit

If you've rode your bike in the rain or it has gotten wet, it's a possibility that your magneto coil and magneto rotor have become corroded. This may be a cause of a no-start condition. The only way that I know of testing the magnetic strength of the magneto rotor is to test it before hand with some steel nuts as a baseline, like this:)
Magnetic.jpg

Good Luck,

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
Hey Jaguar, Read post#1, He already bought a Jag CDI.
And good one BB, I don't know how accurate this would be or how many nuts together means it's OK, But if ya start with a brand new one, See how many nuts it holds, then you MIGHT get a general idea of Magneto health.
And unless the engine was overheated for an extended period the magneto is probably OK. Your gonna have to ask Jaguar if hooking up his CDI backwards would hurt it any. If it does, (just a suggestion,) get a new stock CDI to test the theory, If it runs THEN invest in a new jag CDI. And DON'T hook the wires up backwards again.LOL. (blue to blue, black to black.)
But, Like I said, MOST of the time IT'S THE COIL. If you were using the white wire at all the coil could have been weakend or completely destroyed. I've put a plug against the head, Got what LOOKED like a good spark, and still NO START, (weak coil.) You might want to keep an extra one around anyway and they are only about $12. Also, If you look closely at the coil you'll see where the tiny copper wire is soldered to the frame of the coil. This is what's commonly known as a "cold solder" connection and is notorious for loosing it's connectivity. What can I say, Just another example of Chinese quality control.
Big Red.
 
resoldering the coil to frame connection

Hey Jaguar, Read post#1, He already bought a Jag CDI.
And good one BB, I don't know how accurate this would be or how many nuts together means it's OK, But if ya start with a brand new one, See how many nuts it holds, then you MIGHT get a general idea of Magneto health.
And unless the engine was overheated for an extended period the magneto is probably OK. Your gonna have to ask Jaguar if hooking up his CDI backwards would hurt it any. If it does, (just a suggestion,) get a new stock CDI to test the theory, If it runs THEN invest in a new jag CDI. And DON'T hook the wires up backwards again.LOL. (blue to blue, black to black.)
But, Like I said, MOST of the time IT'S THE COIL. If you were using the white wire at all the coil could have been weakend or completely destroyed. I've put a plug against the head, Got what LOOKED like a good spark, and still NO START, (weak coil.) You might want to keep an extra one around anyway and they are only about $12. Also, If you look closely at the coil you'll see where the tiny copper wire is soldered to the frame of the coil. This is what's commonly known as a "cold solder" connection and is notorious for loosing it's connectivity. What can I say, Just another example of Chinese quality control.
Big Red.

Thank you all for you input, truly appreciated,

Big Red, I never had the white wire in play and have now completely removed it. The copper cable soldered to the coils from is not broken but the metal is darkened and looks really thin, could this be re-soldered?

Big Blue (any relation?), I have been doing all these tests with the kill switch disconnected so I don't see how that could be the problem :/

Thanks again everyone-
Roy
 
Thank you all for you input, truly appreciated,

Big Red, I never had the white wire in play and have now completely removed it. The copper cable soldered to the coils from is not broken but the metal is darkened and looks really thin, could this be re-soldered?

Big Blue (any relation?), I have been doing all these tests with the kill switch disconnected so I don't see how that could be the problem :/

Thanks again everyone-
Roy

Then if the kill switch is still in play, Disconnect it. I've had a bad switch fool me more than once. And I've tried to re-solder that connection with little positive results. To do a good solder you have to heat the coil TO MUCH to be good for it. I think thats why they do a cold solder. If you have ANY doubts about the coil, Then it's probably THE COIL. So roll the dice for $12 and order a new coil. That is AFTER checking (by disconnecting,) the kill switch.
$11.87 with free shipping from BGF. FAST SHIPPER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/66cc-80cc-M...Accessories&hash=item2c60a2d240#ht_2164wt_930

$11.70 from PCC with free shipping, Can't remember how fast he ships.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magneto-Coi...es&hash=item3cc933df06&vxp=mtr#ht_1120wt_1168
Big Red.
P.S. BB's a good guy,But no relation.
P.S.S. It's too early, Need more coffee. I read you had the kill switch disconnected then "brain Freeze" I guess.
P.S.S.S.S....S. IT'S THE COIL!!!!
 
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Then if the kill switch is still in play, Disconnect it. I've had a bad switch fool me more than once. And I've tried to re-solder that connection with little positive results. To do a good solder you have to heat the coil TO MUCH to be good for it. I think thats why they do a cold solder.

too true. the former melts unless you have a glowing red plumbers iron... and then it melts just because! i managed to be able to graft a length of wire on these old soldered ones and attached the standard black wire here.

spend the dollars ;) so much easier.

on these new ones with just the blue and black, you dont need the engine connection. im up to just soldering the cdi straight to the coil and forgetting about having an "earth". killswitch? i dump the clutch :) killswitches always break. only handy for doing throttle chops in my situation at which i install a real toggle switch.


only thing thats stopped me rewinding one of these things is pulling the laminated core apart! they just dont want a bar of it! old tube transformers are simple in comparison! but i would like that power winding back with a bit more current capability... ie, not inclined to burn out and ruin a coil! the biggest problem is that both coils have a common earth. should be isolated. quite easy to wind the coil...just not while on the core :( to try and make a ferrite core would be interesting but a bit outside my capabilities as of this moment. maybe when i get my profile cutter running? :)
 
Like HeadSmess said, "spend the dollars, so much easier."
All I have to say to that is..... YUP.
Big Red.
 
ordered parts

Like HeadSmess said, "spend the dollars, so much easier."
All I have to say to that is..... YUP.
Big Red.

Thanks everybody,

I went ahead and ordered a new coil from Pcc Motors, hopefully I can get this up and running soon.

I had mentioned early about wiring the cdi to the coil backwards, what I had meant was I may have put black to black before blue to blue, in the grubbee literature it says "First install Blue & Black wires from engine magneto to same color CDI wires. Warning: Do not hook up backwards or damage will occur to the CDI."

I took this to mean hook up blue to blue before black to black, what I'm thinking now is it means simply dont connect it blue to black, black to blue. If I misunderstood then my cdi should be just fine.
 
HAHAHAHAHA.... YER OK.
Big Red.


I didn't mean to put a stop to the thread bro, And I wasn't laughing at you. I was just thinking (at the time,) that an electricion could wire an entire house wrong and backwards and it would be fine, Untill the power was turned on.
So as long as the power wasn't turned on, your bike is fine.
Big Red.
 
Thanks everybody,

I went ahead and ordered a new coil from Pcc Motors, hopefully I can get this up and running soon.

I had mentioned early about wiring the cdi to the coil backwards, what I had meant was I may have put black to black before blue to blue, in the grubbee literature it says "First install Blue & Black wires from engine magneto to same color CDI wires. Warning: Do not hook up backwards or damage will occur to the CDI."

I took this to mean hook up blue to blue before black to black, what I'm thinking now is it means simply dont connect it blue to black, black to blue. If I misunderstood then my cdi should be just fine.

doesnt matter what order you join them up in :giggle: as long as you join em to the right colour!


and with the electrician quip...i always forget which terminal is active... considering most things run a transformer on mains, it doesnt matter. anything else runs a bridge rectifier...i have not found ONE appliance (a safety switch isnt really an appliance?) that requires the neutral and active be wired correctly! just dont hook active or neutral to earth or each other! i love AC :)
 
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