TREEWK
Member
Zipping
As an after thought, I did do a couple mods with that bell housing. Took the bell housing off the motor , held the dime size sprocket tight with a vice grip and removed the lock nut inside the clutch drum then screwed the clutch drum off. Be careful the drums bend near the spindle = will wobble and tear up inner clutch parts.
Took the shaft with the sprocket to a lathe and had the sprocket and stem machined off. had it bored on lathe and threaded 5/16" NFT. Bought a 25 tooth cog from "Golden Bicycle Engines" in Michigan. Used 5/16" NFT 1" Allen head set screw to attach golden eagle cog.
Then decided that 49cc mite be too much for the 16" nylon sheave that snaps onto spokes. When machining the shaft it has to be left long enough so the cog clears the bell housing.
Then modified another of those bell housings. Took it apart, had a couple of the bell housings bored and threaded 3/8" NCT, bought 6 shoulder bolts with 6" shoulder and 3/8" NCT ends. The original clutch drum threads are 8mm metric. The bell bearing has a larger id than 1/2", found the correct bearing and used that setup in my friction drives with the 1 1/4" rollers with the one way inner bearings.
A shorter shoulder bolt could be used to attach a v pulley to the bell and use a Whizzer rear wheel 16" bolt on steel v sheave.
A Friction Drive Kit could be used without the roller, install a small v pulley for 1/2" wide belt, align it with a Whizzer steel sheave
and lock pulley in place, may need to grind a flat spot on shaft.
Belt drives are clean, quiet and mostly trouble free.
My Stretch Cruiser is going to be primary and secondary belt drive!! Trouble free with a 5 hp Briggs flat head for frame clearance.
Ron
As an after thought, I did do a couple mods with that bell housing. Took the bell housing off the motor , held the dime size sprocket tight with a vice grip and removed the lock nut inside the clutch drum then screwed the clutch drum off. Be careful the drums bend near the spindle = will wobble and tear up inner clutch parts.
Took the shaft with the sprocket to a lathe and had the sprocket and stem machined off. had it bored on lathe and threaded 5/16" NFT. Bought a 25 tooth cog from "Golden Bicycle Engines" in Michigan. Used 5/16" NFT 1" Allen head set screw to attach golden eagle cog.
Then decided that 49cc mite be too much for the 16" nylon sheave that snaps onto spokes. When machining the shaft it has to be left long enough so the cog clears the bell housing.
Then modified another of those bell housings. Took it apart, had a couple of the bell housings bored and threaded 3/8" NCT, bought 6 shoulder bolts with 6" shoulder and 3/8" NCT ends. The original clutch drum threads are 8mm metric. The bell bearing has a larger id than 1/2", found the correct bearing and used that setup in my friction drives with the 1 1/4" rollers with the one way inner bearings.
A shorter shoulder bolt could be used to attach a v pulley to the bell and use a Whizzer rear wheel 16" bolt on steel v sheave.
A Friction Drive Kit could be used without the roller, install a small v pulley for 1/2" wide belt, align it with a Whizzer steel sheave
and lock pulley in place, may need to grind a flat spot on shaft.
Belt drives are clean, quiet and mostly trouble free.
My Stretch Cruiser is going to be primary and secondary belt drive!! Trouble free with a 5 hp Briggs flat head for frame clearance.
Ron