Help with clutch

jbburns99

New Member
Local time
11:02 PM
Joined
Sep 29, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Denver, Colorado
clutch.jpg

ENgine:66cc chinese crap
PRoblem: clutch won't disengage. the pin my finger is on above will not move in at all, leaving the clutch arm unable to move past parallel with engine. the motor has never been run as i just finished assembling it today and ran into this problem. attempted to do something with the flower nut on the other side but didnt really know what i was trying to do so i stopped. please help!!! dont really know anything about this clutch, took it to a couple motorcycle shops with inconclusive results.
 
what kind of engine is that? how did you get the drive on the right? i presume you mean it wont disengage with the actuator connected because it will be very hard to push in with your finger!
 
I think it's an inverted photograph, something like a mirror reflection of the true picture. So I dont think the drive is really on the right.

If you really cannot press the pin in and you have already tried LOOSENING the daisy nut, then you should try to regulate the clutch pressure mechanism. First you need to make sure that you really can't push the pin in. Dont try to push it in with anything other than the clutch lever mechanism. It will seem more difficult than it really is. If the clutch lever really cannot depress the pushrod/pin, and you did loosen the daisy nut on the pads side, then readjust the clutch pressure settings that come from the factory and are usually not tuned by average users. Do you see the little support post that the clutch cable goes through? Just in the top of the carter. Remove the clutch cable and sheath so that you can unscrew that post from the carter. There will be a hole open then. You take a thin screwdriver or allen wrench (2 - 2.5 mm) and slide it into the hole at an angle towards the pads side while it is angled against the other side of the hole's rim. Just slide the instrument into the hole at as sharp an angle possible with the tip going in going towards the pads side. Push down at the same time and start to push the bike forward and back a bit. When you feel it click into a slot, push the bike forward to loosen the pressure adjustment(small sprocket will be turning counter clockwise). The slot edge will be biting into your allen wrench or screwdriver and you will feel or hear some pressured sliding of metal surfaces. Maybe something like a spring creaking as something slides against it under pressure. Try pushing it forward in this condition so that the small sprocket on the engine does 1 - 1.5 full turns. Put the cover with lever on and try to depress the clutch. If it's alright, then just remove the screwdriver or allen wrench. It might seem a little stuck, do not panic, calmly wiggle it out. If this adjustment is too loose then you will get slippage during acceleration. If it is too tight then your clutch parts will wear out every few days or weeks ( the pushrod gets shorter fast, cables break). Be prepared to repeat this adjustment several times to get it right. It is a pain in the ass to get that bent up clutch cable back through those little holes. Patience may grant you some grace and luck...
 
I think it's an inverted photograph, something like a mirror reflection of the true picture. So I dont think the drive is really on the right.
Hehehe, has to be a mirror image pic, funny ;-}

The most likely cause of your problem is not the clutch plate, it is usually dried grease in the bearing seam between the clutch pad back and shaft.

Just remove the lock screw and flower nut to remove the clutch plate.

clutch1.jpg


Note there is spring under the plate, pull it out as well.

clutch2.jpg


The object is to break the bearing seam free and a big long screw driver works dandy but PAY ATTENTION!

clutchBreak.jpg


1. Only pry using 2 of the 3 floating guide pins and never pry against the moving center pin!

2. The outer portion of that plate hooks to the little engine gear, we do not want this outer ring to move so you need to either wedge something between the big and small gears at the bottom or pull the plug and put something like a socket extension in the hole to catch and stop the piston just before TDC.

3. The inner portion of that plate directly connects to the drive sprocket on the left side. This is the portion we want to move so take your drive chain off so the bike won't move.

It doesn't take much force to break it free, then put your spring back in, the plate on, screw the flower nut on some and hook up your left side drive train including the clutch cable.

NOTE: It is a good idea to clean out any gunk between the brake pads and off the clutch plate friction side.

Pull the clutch in to lock position and then tighten the flower nut to where the bike won't roll then back it off about 1/2 a turn.

You want to balance where the clutch runs free or engages, this is easy with the flower nut provided your cable is right.
Just keep adjusting to where the engine is engaged up to just before the clutch lever in lock position by rolling the bike.

When you have it right tweak the flower nut so it is over a set screw hole, it doesn't matter which one, then put a drop of blue LokTight on the lock screw and put it in.
 
THank you all very much! Got it working, just need to get the bike started now. Not a joke. I do not know what im doing. Very much appreciate all the help.
 
Wow! Amazing! I would have never thought about dried grease being able to stop the pressure pin from being depressed. It being new and all I suspected the worse.

One of our vendors had quite a few engines in one lot that came with the wrong piston or crank, depending on how you want to look at it. The engines wouldn't even turn over with the piston bottoming out in the head. Makes one think the worse after seeing some of the mistakes that get by the inspectors at their factories in China.

Glad you got it working! I'll keep this remedy in mind for the folks on the forums over here.
 
Wow! Amazing! I would have never thought about dried grease being able to stop the pressure pin from being depressed.
Actually it has nothing to do with the pressure pin, it moves and the clutch plate moves out, the bearing just doesn't release so the drive portion spins free of the engine.
 
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