Time to start shifting

Thank you Fabian almost all of these I can use for setup and knowledge. Its pretty impressive how much technical info you have. Does anyone have any input on internal gear hubs. I've searched and the last posts are kind of old, maybe someone can chime in?
 
Just more JS tips.

Always turn the nut holding the engine output sprocket clockwise to move chain and not counter-clockwise as in Fabians videos.
That is a clockwise threaded nut and you can loosen it going backwards.

Left side chain is always a bear and shims help, but don't neglect the 3rd mount point from the big round clutch cover, this can help you teak the mount angle just a bit to tighten or loosen the first chain.

Pay close attention to where the freewheel bearing big sprockets align, you can use washers between the sprockets FW bearing, and of course washers between the JS sprockets and their bearings.
The simple rule start with the small black washer against the bearing, from there on it's just a combination of fat brass and thin black washers for chain alignment.
 
Always turn the nut holding the engine output sprocket clockwise to move chain and not counter-clockwise as in Fabians videos.
That is a clockwise threaded nut and you can loosen it going backwards.

In principle, I agree. but if the nut is properly torqued, it won't come undone with light hand tool pressure.
 
Thank you Fabian almost all of these I can use for setup and knowledge. Its pretty impressive how much technical info you have. Does anyone have any input on internal gear hubs. I've searched and the last posts are kind of old, maybe someone can chime in?

My first preference is for the Nuvinci Hub, but they do not make a hub strong enough for a motorised application.
My second preference is for internally geared hubs, but the issue with internally geared hubs is that of internal gear failure, which leaves you up a creek without a paddle if it happens to fail; with shredded gear teeth working their way through the system; smashing to pieces every other gear in the system.

At least a derailleur system allows easy replacement of the sprockets and chain and rear derailleur and hanger if you're in a more remote location.
As part of my tool kit, i carry spare chain, spare cable, spare hanger, spare largest cassette sprockets and a spare rear derailleur.

If an internally geared hub fails, it's likely to be an impossible job to service the thing (on the side of the road) without specialised tools and a proper workbench.
 
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Thanks again guys I'm going to go with the derailleur setup if this hub breaks. I'll go easy on it. Can I get some help with rpm and speed I can give all the info. 10 tooth engine, 17 tooth jackshaft; 11 jackshaft, 44 tooth chain ring; 36 chain ring, 18 tooth on hub. Ratios for hub are 1st 2.8, 2nd 3.4, 3rd 4.5, 4th 6, 5th 7.2. Sorry I'm posting from my phone my laptop is busted and I can't use the ratio program.
 
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