College Commuter Asks: What style motor bike do I need?

I am a commuting college student. I have a bit of cash to spend and I want a motor powered bike(well duh of course I do). I walk 2.6 miles to and from school.

Projected Route:

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Mab...0fe89fcde!2m2!1d-82.992489!2d38.73152!3e2!4e1



But imagine cutting through alleys through apt complexes and so forth. There may be 1 to ,possibly, 2 hills with anywhere from 6 degree incline to 10 degree incline. I go to school 4 days a week so thats 2.6miles x round trip (2 trips) x 4 days/a wk = 20.8 miles a week. I have to consider the weather because it snows and is slick out at times. Weatherized Gear mayb? I'd Imagine Constant Cooling (chaining it up outside the University.) and Warming (Bringing it in when I arrive home.) is hard on the motor/electrical parts. Any Ideas? You would have my thanks. I'm looking to spend around $300 on the build not including the actual bike just the motor and gear. Would like to purchase studded winter tires as well included in build. Looking for Reliability and Distance as I may want to take an occasional distance ride maybe 15 miles. Should I go Gas or Electric been looking on ebay but there is so many variations and prices I don't know where to begin. Thanks
Your Newest Community Member,
YoungChaos

 

[Paul E.]

sounds like your best option is a carshare with another student; but I'll give it a shot.

For 3oo, you will order a 2 stroke kit that goes 129 or so plus ship/tax, weatherizing means lights and tools and tire-liners, spikeys in back but I was thinking training wheels mounted to the axle of theres any threads..

get a used beach cruiser if you can find one for under 50, perhaps this increases your budget for a better kit. in that case, buy a 4 stroke kit for reliability. There's also the legality to contend with; your mileage will vary.

Now, with kits, they are only good for a narrow range of adjustment, so the bike frame must fall into that range. I'm sure to forget some things so I hope everyone chimes in to tell me I'm wrong or add something

 

[YoungChaos]

sounds like your best option is a carshare with another student; but I'll give it a shot.

For 3oo, you will order a 2 stroke kit that goes 129 or so plus ship/tax, weatherizing means lights and tools and tire-liners, spikeys in back but I was thinking training wheels mounted to the axle of theres any threads..

get a used beach cruiser if you can find one for under 50, perhaps this increases your budget for a better kit. in that case, buy a 4 stroke kit for reliability. There's also the legality to contend with; your mileage will vary.

Now, with kits, they are only good for a narrow range of adjustment, so the bike frame must fall into that range. I'm sure to forget some things so I hope everyone chimes in to tell me I'm wrong or add something

Ok Thank you for the reply, Paulie. I have a few additional questions:

1. So which of these two links has more torque, because I am under the impression that higher number of sprockets results in increased Torque, Correct?


A. 49cc 4G T Belt Drive Complete Gas Powered Engine Kit


http://www.bicycle-engines.com/49cc-4G-T-Belt-Drive-Complete-Gas-Powered-Engine-Kit.html

B.49cc Complete Stage III Gas Powered Bicycle Engine Kit


http://www.bicycle-engines.com/49cc-Complete-Stage-III-Gas-Powered-Bicycle-Engine-Kit.html


2. Will the Debo bike (What I call Cruisers thanks to the movie: "Friday" [if you are curious as why I have bestowed this title watch the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFJThMDLYM4 ) front forks kick out on me because I would rather like to keep my teeth and plus I'm on a Asphalt-Free diet.


3. Anyway to quiet the engine further?; do they make catalytic converters for these things, because I'm eco-friendly. lmfao Most Likely just a longer exhaust would help, right?

 

[Paul E.]

ok, 1) the two kits are dissimilar because they feature two distinct and non-compatible drivetrains. The 4G is the one I have, and if you want low end grunt and not caring about losing some top end which the motor doesn't like anyways, swap for a higher tooth count, like over 50.

The other is a trans I'm not familiar with personally, but here is a resource that describes them: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=13279

The 4G can be reliable, one just needs to tweak little things, file this, tighten that, always with the goal of smoothing the driveline as finely as possible; reducing drag etc.

As for the other stuff, I don't have a clue

 

[YoungChaos]

1. 48 tooth not good enough? lol

I'm more worried about torque as long as I can ride 17-20mph and get up fairly steep inclines without burning up anything or without putting too much stress on the engine then I will be content.

2. What specifications does 4G motor have exactly? Like if I were to look into other engines (for pricing) with the same capabilities, What would be a short hand way to enter in a search engine(Ex. 49cc 4-stroke Bike Engine 1" drive shaft, Blah Blah Yada, Yada), like, Google & Ebay? (Would you test your response to the following question using the "shopping" tab associated with Google.com, and ebay.com search?)

3. Also I see that you have "spring actuated tensioner" is that for the chain?; will I need to worry about a loosely hanging chain?

4. For any upgrades or parts for the 4G you recommend looking at, bsides the sprocket, that would result in a more reliable, torque-er motobike? )) Maybe a Cooling solution for those long, steady inclines?

I am Really, Really Excited about this Project! lol

Last But not Least...

5. Is it fairly easy for beginners to follow the instructions in Manual for Installation, plus doing all of the filing this, and tightening that, and JB welding this & that? lol

I'm computer technician at heart, so I spent my years in front of a screen and not out in the garage. Though I'm like a sponge when it comes to Hands-on experiences(It's like riding a bike, Right? lmfao), and I catch on quickly. If I thought I was incapable of Succeeding in this endeavor I wouldn't be here. I have the most powerful tool most garages either don't have or dont need.... THE INTERNET!!

Edit: 6. Would you review a few kits( in either search engine results Ebay Or Google. [I say this because I have Payapl Credit and both search engine usually result in stores that take that payment method.]) and see what would be the best candidate. Feel free to Mix and Match parts; if you are willing to take the time to explain how the parts are installed. I would think that would be the cheapest way to build a bike and may just research research research and build a bike one part at a time. Though thats most unlikely just depends on what the VERY best outcome would be regarding price vs. hassle of the build. If ~*ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY*~ you may go over the limit to $400. (Like for it to include the "bells and whistles of performance" lol)

 

[Paul E.]

"will I need to worry about a loosely hanging chain" I think you can figure this one out. hint: too tight is bad also.

The Internet is NOT the most powerful tool; it's the people you network with and the relationships you foster. Without those people, you would be dealing with suppliers online that will sell you anything you want, regardless if it works for you or not.

A lot of this will be trial and error; some people say the spring tensioners are a waste of money if the driveline is smooth enough, others say it's necessary.

48tooth rear drive sprocket is what I have, but I have to pedal assist up the medium hills and not even try the hard ones..If you go 56 tooth, you get hill climbing power, and your top speed will be around 20-24mph.

Look, what you'll find when you do look at the different 4 stroke kits, is that they all have the basic same motor; a Honda GSX50 I believe, and the H.S.142(chinese). There is another, but its not common. The chinese motor is a clone of the Honda, not the same machining tolerances, but half price. Either one will last a long time if you take care of it, change the oil on time, don't over-speed on a downhill section, break-in carefully, etc.

Ok, must go measure my throttle cable for a replacement throttle assembly. Hint: you measure the outside sheath, not the inside cable. peace

 

[YoungChaos]

I have edited the post *twice* just a minute ago please check the details at the bottom of my previous post. If you would like mearly edit your post regarding the added details of my post. This is kinda cool I have to admit :>

 

[Timbone]

Here's my opinion:

Ride your bike to school. 2.6 miles each way? That's the cheapest, most efficient option.

If you want a motorbike, you need a safe place to stash it. If it's 2 stroke, it will drip oil and maybe even gas. No way i would keep it inside a house/apartment/dorm.

If it's 4 stroke it is still likely to drip oil and or gas. Who keeps a gas powered lawnmower in their house?

These things are good times if you are mechanically inclined. These engines are small and have lots of vibration. You will work on it A LOT. If you cannot fix whatever problem crops up you will have to buy a new kit or have a hunk of metal and rubber that will not run. You will get your hands dirty!

=Timbone=

 

[YoungChaos]

I have the resources to fund replacements and have the time and patience to work on it. If I'm ever going to learn about Automotives I figured this would be a fairly Good Intro. I have a shed, but why does that bother you that I'd bring it inside? Is it your apt or mine? lol I'll take the time to fix leaks and spillages. Bike will be Double Chained in designated bicycle rack area; I'd rather not have it leaking oil onto the sidewalk on campus. The shed is heated hence my "bring it inside" Statement. Gas vapors kill brain cells(Intro to Chem). lmfao

 

[YoungChaos]

As for the cheapest way to School... The reason for purchasing the bike is transportation, Period. I have loved ones that live 15 miles away and thought, on occasion, I could ride my bike there to visit. Bike is for cheap alternative transportation; 150 mpg? Shoot, I would be amazed with 100 mpg. I would use the bike to run errands from time to time, you know, typical in-town usage.