Columbia 1937 board tracker real gas tank

I normally don't build on ~$150 wally world type bikes but this caught my eye.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/39801995?...7321352&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=105949407872&veh=sem

The 'tank' is two pieces of pressed formed sheet metal that butt together in the middle via 2 struts attached to the frame via cut outs, two screws on each side plate, and top mounting hole to strut between the split top bar.

1937parts2-750.jpg


I thought I'd see if I can make it wide enough to get a filler and petcock on it and seal it up like Sportsman does.

tank6.jpg


I made new inner struts to widen the front 7cm wider and the rear 3.5cm wider.
NOTE: flattening the front struts V mount out straight gives you the back strut.

1937tank2b.jpg


That leaves me enough room for the petcock, and with the wider front enough room for the filler I hacked off an old kit tank.

1937tank2t.jpg


I found a spiffy thinner steel filler and venting cap that that is pretty darn cool.
If the bike falls over all you get is a little drip from the tiny vent hole as the cap is threaded with an O ring seal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Fuel...h-weld-in-Bung-SMALL-CUSTOM-NEW-/191495380281


For the petcock I'm going with the new MB kit one with the threaded collar so you can orient the valve lever and it has a double long inner screen with a Normal and Reserve setting.
http://www.gasbike.net/gasoline-tank-switch-for-2.5-L-gas-tank.html

Reserve on this flat tank should be enough for 10 miles or more.

I got some poster board to cut out the templates for the sheet metal and thinking I'll just pop-rivet it on because I found this to seal up the tank.
http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

A gas-proof liquid 2 part epoxy that creates a solid tank inside the shell.

Under $100 to NOT use a peanut tank is worth it, and the bike itself has potential for handlebars down board tracker feel or sit up nice beach cruiser.
Worth exploring for me ;-}
 
Tight fit!

KC,

Did you have to use Vaseline to install that engine? That is "scary tight."

Oh, what a tangled web, we weave! The offset intake manifold is a nice solution. And, thanks for the heads up on that throttle cable... I'm guessing I can bring it up over my tank. But, that's another knuckle-biter! Boy, I think that they made slant heads and offset manifolds, just for us!! :D No room for rubber motor mounts! Even the fuel line is sketchy, huh?

I don't have my engine yet, but I was planning on cutting out a 2" square from the peanut tank's petcock fitting and glassing it into the bottom of my tank. I believe that will be a threaded brass tubing?? Does that sound feasible? The outlet and carb. are right there on top of each other. Too close for comfort!

I drive through Phoenix in April..... I would sure like to buy you lunch! (I think I owe you lunch and dinner for all the help you've given me so far) I don't think I would make it through this project without you forging a path!! :cry:

Would I be asking for your best fishing hole, if I asked you to suggest a good choice of a 66cc engine. BikeBerry is $160. I know half the kit will be tossed but the muffler almost makes the kit worth it.

Oh, I spent the day (here at work) laying out the size of my tank on a template. Talk about FUN!!! Must have looked pretty funny, with my two tank halves on my desk! :devilish:

Jim

Jim
 
KC,

Did you have to use Vaseline to install that engine? That is "scary tight."

Actually not that bad.
I had to get a longer U-bolt for the front mount.
Plate and hardware from SBP front mount.

1937engine1.jpg


1937engine2.jpg



The offset intake manifold is a nice solution.
And, thanks for the heads up on that throttle cable...
I'm guessing I can bring it up over my tank.

Yes, right along the side of the top bar.
The tank is inside the top bars where the carb is so it will ride on top of the tank to the front from there.

I was planning on cutting out a 2" square from the peanut tank's petcock fitting and glassing it into the bottom of my tank.
I believe that will be a threaded brass tubing?? Does that sound feasible?
The outlet and carb. are right there on top of each other. Too close for comfort!

It's a flat bottom tank, you can put the petcock wherever you want.
I am figuring between the carb and head.

I still can't find a piece of threaded pipe that fits the petcock or even a die to make one!
Damn funky threads, I may have to opt for a motorcycle petcock or sacrifice a tank.

It's coming along.

1937almostRight-1280.jpg


1937almostLeft-1280.jpg


I drive through Phoenix in April..... I would sure like to buy you lunch! (I think I owe you lunch and dinner for all the help you've given me so far) I don't think I would make it through this project without you forging a path!! :cry:

Jim

Sounds fun, let me know when your in town.
 
Here are couple of shots while I wait for parts for the tank.

1937engineCloseL.jpg


I would have liked to have put a long chrome Poo-Poo pipe on it but this tank is costing more than I wanted to pay already so I'll just bend that stock pipe up some.

All the cables and wires diapered and yes, a keylock ignition in addition to the throttle kill button ;-}

1937engineCloseR.jpg


Dead level NT carb with good air filter, rock solid engine mount, true chain line with no tensioner, and the throttle has that quick audible snap-back click when you let of the throttle at wide open.

Front and rear C-brakes to assist the coaster brake and of course BMX foam grips to dampen any vibrations.

1937almostFront.jpg


It should be quite the machine with the big tank in don't ya think?
 
Your bike is looking good! However, since you asked, I'm not happy with your front motor mount. I had a similar one. Not from Sick Bike Parts. It broke without warning becoming a total front mount failure. The engine will swing around. The chain bending sideways will seize around the front sprocket. Even a low speeds it can badly in not permanently bruise the side of your knee. I suspect at higher speeds the chain could pull the engine completely off the bike taking out your knee on the way by. The case could be made this is even more dangerous than a tensioner falling into the spokes.

100_0678.jpg

The rectangular bracket was sent as the large tube equivalent part from Gas bike. It looks to me to be the stronger part. Rather than repair the front mount with similar replacement; I made a different attachment of the motor to the bike frame.

100_0679.jpg

The exhaust support also acts as a backup engine support in the event of a front mount failure.
 
I have 100% confidence in my motor mounts or I wouldn't use them.
It passes every test I do, if it moves AT ALL pushing as hard as you can it's a fail.
This doesn't fail and looks a whole lot better than some plywood bolted to the side don't ya think?

I do and you can always give me **** if the tank don't work out, for now it is one mechanically solid safe machine.
 
Here are couple of shots while I wait for parts for the tank.

KC,

Wait ..... I've got to pick myself up off the floor!!!!!!!!! OMG! That is so beautiful.... Wow! You're work is amazing. I don't even miss the tank... it looks so complete. With the tank, people will not be thinking bicycle anymore. Your attention to detail is just awesome. The black and silver engine, added C brakes and a keyed switch?!! Sounds like you might have to give up on your petcock and go with plan "B" on that. Sacrificing a peanut tank, wouldn't be such a sacrifice.

KC, I don't know if your concerned about Wolfshoes' broken mount metal pcs., but you have so much room with washers or shims, what would be wrong with re-fabricating your own metal mount piece out of 1/4 or even 3/8" steel? And, oversize it a bit leaving plenty of metal around those holes?

That's just my 1 cent comment.... from the Noob. :unsure:
 
KC,

Wait ..... I've got to pick myself up off the floor!!!!!!!!! OMG! That is so beautiful.... Wow! You're work is amazing.
I don't even miss the tank... it looks so complete. With the tank, people will not be thinking bicycle anymore.

I don't know if your concerned about Wolfshoes' broken mount metal pcs., but you have so much room with washers or shims, what would be wrong with re-fabricating your own metal mount piece out of 1/4 or even 3/8" steel?
And, oversize it a bit leaving plenty of metal around those holes?

I have every intention of having some better fitting plates made for this frame for future builds just for the look, but I used what I have and it is rock solid, even a catastrophic chain lock at high speed will take out something else before that mount will budge including that plate.

KC, not positive but I believe petcock is British standard pipe thread size -4

Thank you Jack, I'll see if I can find a die for that size and thread my own little piece of pipe for the tank outlet.
I really like that style petcock for orienting it out in just the perfect place on the tank which will be important considering how tight the fit is.

This build has been rolled aside until the tank is ready and a new build is in the stall so no real updates until I have the tank back.
 
The tank takes form

The tank is back from the welders.
I still need to seal it and do the finish work on the new metal but it follows my template well and fits in just like I wanted it to with the petcock I wanted where I wanted it as well as the filler.

Here a couple of shots straight from the welders.
They used overkill thick steel but it sure makes for a solid structure.

1937tank4TopLeftFront.jpg


1937tank4bottom.jpg


The important part was it could slide into the frame so I took the whole bike up there.
That really paid off as it fits just as well as the template pieces I took them did.

1937tank4LeftFront.jpg


1937tank4TopRightIn.jpg


1937tank4top.jpg


Unlike most of the US today it will be a nice sunny 80F here in Phoenix today so I'll put the tank out in direct sun this afternoon to preheat the whole tank to 90+F and then run a solder bead with my electric iron along the seams to semi-seal it and then start the 3 part tank sealing treatment.

It's been a pricey endeavor for me, $250 to the welding shop, $50 for the petcock and filler, and $40 for the tank sealer but you home built guys..
Some medium sized sheet metal cut to the template and just pop riveted in would save you a bunch.

All I know is it can be done and I'm digg'n the look ;-}
 
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