Been lurking decided to post my new ride.

I tried various ways of getting the 2 cycle China engine off center and to the left side of the bike. Those 3 inch Kenda Flame tires and the chain were a real issue for me. I ultimately made two brackets, a left and right piece that mated up directly to the standard bolts fore and aft on the engine. The attached pictures shows the 2 pieces I designed and had made from steel at a local machine shop. That worked best, but I eventually changed tires and went with GeaX Tattoo, Pro BMX tires. The bike now has about 400 miles on it and bike #2 is up and running with 80 miles on it. Both bikes can be seen at https://www.youtube.com/user/JimConHam/videos .

I hope this helps!

20140417_072122_resized new mounts.jpggeax tattoo 24 2.3.jpg
 
I got the 7-speed version and jackshafted it.
No funky motor offsets, it bolts right in like it's supposed to, the jackshaft transfers the power over to the pedals, and pedals are already aligned to get around the tire.

FitoDoneLF.jpg


2_FitoDoneR-1280.jpg


It'll do wheelies in 1st and 40+ MPH in 7th.
 
Anything funky with the jackshaft install? custom mounts? Also did you change the stock chain for a stronger one?
 
When I started my first bike project I ordered the 24 inch with "Kenda-Flame" three inch tires made it a 26", but without a derailleur, thinking that was the way to go. I quickly discovered those tires were an issue for me. I tried to bush the rear motor gear out as far as I could for chain clearance, but decided moving the engine left was the ay to go. It did solve the tire chain problem, but It was too close for me and I opted for slightly smaller tires. Several builders I did talk to several builders that told me to stay below 2.35 inches to avoid the chain tire clearance issue. I may return to bike #1 this summer for the Jackshaft upgrade and I still have the Kenda-Flame three inch tires. Sadly, I didn't know about the Jackshaft alternative or Kc Bikes! Your rig is the way to go and it's a real looker!
 
Here is a better picture the mounts I made and you can see all of my measurements on the drawing if you view in full screen. I used the standard hardware that came with the engine package to align hole placement in my new brackets which kept the engine in proper alignment with frame. BTW the Jackshaft recommended by KC Bikes solve the engine, chain and tire issue!Modified Motor Mounts Drawing with parts.jpg 20140419_170519_resized_1.jpg20140419_170534_resized_1.jpg
 
vanillawafer16 said:
Anything funky with the jackshaft install? custom mounts? Also did you change the stock chain for a stronger one?
Click to expand...

The engine dropped right in with the SickBikes jackshaft and front mount.

FitoAlmost1-5closeL.jpg


It's the ideal bike cavity for a 4-stroke shifter too.

FitoBare-4-strokeR.jpg


Either way you retain the rear disc brake and enjoy the 7-speed with the engine.

Drive chain of course is an issue.
I would really like to find this bike with a 3-speed internal so I could use single speed chain, but for $340 delivered in a couple of days from BikeBuyers, a good price for what it has on it.

The stock 7-speed chain is holding up so far but we are experienced shifting riders.
There is an art to riding a derailleur under motor power.
The most common mistake is made when down-shifting.
For example:

Riding along ~35MPH and the light ahead to turns red...
You let off the gas, downshift a gear or two expecting to have to stop...
And the light turns green.

You open the throttle and the engine spins up to full RPM before it catches up with the back wheel and WHAP, you snap that chain like a toothpick.

KMC 7 or even 5-speed Z-chain is pretty tuff, just not tougher than that souped up 66cc at a full rev engagement.

I have another Fito here still in the box, a gray one, and I think I'll do a 4-stroke shifter on it and make the top bar a tank this time.
I'm surprised you haven't asked about how I mounted the tank on the silver one ;-}

I have the pre-production model of the new Grubee 10G long shaft transfer case coming, and that should make for a fine base bike to try it out with.
The tank is only 1.6" wide but I did finally find an 1.5" filler tube and gas cap that should work, if my welding shop around the corner what to tackle after they finish with my tank design for the Columbia 1937 board tracker I have up there now but I stray from the OPs topic, offsetting the engine to run direct drive.
 
Just a note about making the top bar a tank...
Even if you could completely seal each end of the top bar it only holds 1/4 gallon (4 cups).
Drilled a top bar hole and tested it with water.
In short not enough fuel to make it worthwhile.

So, this next new Fito build will get a peanut like the silver one, but a 4-stroke jackshaft ;-}
 
Wow this helps so much! Thank you! And yea I'm trying to decide which direction I'm going to take the bike. I'll probably just dish out the extra money for a jackshaft
 
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