Viva knock vegas

Here's my project for the past few months. The knock Vegas bike. Tanks is of a 5051 kikker bike. Fred head 7.0 cc head, 40 mm intake jug, zaf80 connecting rod, silver wristpin from treat land, dellorto clone carb, machined intake manifold. Sick bike parts shift kit, throttle, killswitch, kickstand, and lighting hd cdi. All on a steel Shwin frame. This bike kicks ass. I have 250 trouble free miles on it and this is my first build. Bought it all piece by piece and took the advice of a well read experienced motorized biker. Started by truing the crank on a dialed indicator, then honed the cylinder in cross hatches at 45 degrees, polished the piston, polished the head of the jug perfectly from 300 - 1000 grit. I sealed the whole engine with Chinese gaskets sprayed with 3 coats of spray a gasket copper spray (from Napa). During break in I road the **** out of the bike. Reving between 3500 and 4500 rpm's in 30 min rides. The engine broke is perfectly. At 100 miles the rings were polished but at 200 miles the rings were mirorred and the with no blow by and no carbon under the piston. I ran cheap echo oil at 32:1 for brake in and now I am running stihl chain saw 2 stroke oil at 50:1. Like I said the bike runs like a top. Only problems I've had so far only oil leaks on the magnito oil seal twice. Possibly from putting them in wrong. This last seal has lasted me 50 miles.

Any questions just ask. BIKE LIFE

 

[KCvale]

Spiffy engine work.
That was a lot of time and money to give you a reliable engine and you know it literally inside and out.

Which look did you go with?

The ape hangers and sissy bar?
Or the low bars and bobbed back seat mount?

The ape and sissy bar look reminds me of my old Schwinn Stingray.
My guess is you took the sissy bar off because you couldn't swing your leg around to get on the thing hehehe ;-}

It looks like you might be having an issue with the right side JS chain hitting the bottom of the engine.
No biggie, you can just grind that cover down some so the chain clears, just don't go down to no way to remove the bolt there.

 

[Deleted member 12676]

try the seals from Rock Solid Engines

 

[Hardknockbikes]

Spiffy engine work.
That was a lot of time and money to give you a reliable engine and you know it literally inside and out.

Which look did you go with?

The ape hangers and sissy bar?
Or the low bars and bobbed back seat mount?

The ape and sissy bar look reminds me of my old Schwinn Stingray.
My guess is you took the sissy bar off because you couldn't swing your leg around to get on the thing hehehe ;-}

It looks like you might be having an issue with the right side JS chain hitting the bottom of the engine.
No biggie, you can just grind that cover down some so the chain clears, just don't go down to no way to remove the bolt there.

I ended up doing the top image. Drag bars and a short sissy bar. Also with the chain doesn't rub at all surprisingly but just by a millimeter or two.

I am so glad I put the work in to this build because the end result is well worth it. My aim is 10,000 miles.

 

[KCvale]

Also with the chain doesn't rub at all surprisingly but just by a millimeter or two.

You want zero side contact on any chain, it can and will make the chain fail.
A grinder on that cover down in that corner a couple mills will prevent that, especially when your chain inevitably loosens up.

All 5 cover bolts in, just no cover nub for the chain to hit.

Just a tip, take it or leave it ;-}