7G Ghost Racer Kit

The 4G's use a freewheel output sprocket for easy pedaling, but they have to be at least 12T and considering their small size, not that reliable.

My 2010 model 4G has an 11T and it works fine with a SBP shift kit. Freewheel outputs work great with shift kits because they don't freewheel while coasting
with engine running, they only freewheel when pedaling with engine off. While coasting with engine on, the freewheel action is done by the rear hub.

Those are some great suggestions. Thank you! Are the 10g engines available? Source?

I'd like to learn more about 'jack shafting' and what engines you can do that to. Any links?

Thanks again!

You can run an SBP shift kit on your existing setup. You say you're interested in low-speed cruising, I think a shift kit will be the best option for that.

You'll still have the problem of added resistance while pedaling engine-off, tho. In fact it may be worse because an extra chain will be thrown into the equation.

It's possible to modify the jackshaft input with a reverse freewheeling gear however, this will eliminate most of the added resistance.
 
KC,

That 'mule' is pretty cool! How big is that single speed rear cog? I have a 22t, but would like a bigger one.

Thanks again!
 
My 2010 model 4G has an 11T and it works fine with a SBP shift kit. Freewheel outputs work great with shift kits because they don't freewheel while coasting
with engine running, they only freewheel when pedaling with engine off. While coasting with engine on, the freewheel action is done by the rear hub.

Is this the 4G you're referring to? http://www.bicycle-engines.com/4G-T-Belt-Transmission-Only.html

It looks similar to the 7G I have. What is the major difference between the 4G and the 7G? Does one offer less resistance while pedaling 'engine-off'?

can run an SBP shift kit on your existing setup. You say you're interested in low-speed cruising, I think a shift kit will be the best option for that.

You'll still have the problem of added resistance while pedaling engine-off, tho. In fact it may be worse because an extra chain will be thrown into the equation.

It's possible to modify the jackshaft input with a reverse freewheeling gear however, this will eliminate most of the added resistance.

So if I understand you correctly, your saying that 'tapping in' to the bike's drive system (with an SBP Shift Kit), the torque will be significantly better than the what I have (415# Chain, Tensioner, and 48T sprocket)? But there will still be pedal resistance 'engine off' (similar to what I currently have now).

I get that folks would use a shift kit to get speed, but can it be used to get major torque? I'd prefer not to have gears, but rather one gear... the right gear... a 'mule' as KC said. I want to power through sand. Top speed would be about as fast as you could probably pedal a single speed bike manually. Lastly, it's a fat tire beach cruiser, so the bracket and the hubs are a little wider than typical bikes. Would that pose a problem -or- is it irrelevant? I'm not familiar with its installation, that's why I ask. Maybe there are some posts here? I'll have to look.

Would it ride smoother and function better than having sprockets on both sides? How would it perform with my single rear 22T cog?

Is this the kit? http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=110&osCsid=5bt31dro1pra7r51kfnomirne3

Again... New to all this stuff, so I appreciate the education here guys. I can't thank you enough!
 
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Those are some great suggestions. Thank you!
Are the 10g engines available? Source?
I'd like to learn more about 'jack shafting' and what engines you can do that to.
Any links?
Thanks again!

Well.. Since you asked...
The KC's 10G Long Shaft is not an engine, it is a transfer case that bolts to the engine like your 7G.
Unfortunately, you have a different engine output so irrelevant to what your options are with that engine but here is the scoop...

I worked with Don Grube (Grubee, Skyhawk) for the last year on a new transfer case that fits the HS 142/144F-1G engines that have an output shaft that reaches the right site on it's own....

10Gbase5-2.jpg

I developed a base with a carrier bearing for the right side shaft end for support, and the only tensioner needed in the whole system is on the base so you never have to move your engine or the base to keep that right side chain tight.

10Gbase5-5.jpg

10Gbase8R-close.jpg

With an SBP freewheel bottom bracket freewheel pedal assembly you are 'jackshafted' without the need for an additional shaft, bearing, mount base, sprocket or chain.

There is no link to buy one yet but since you asked, you can reserve one with a despot here.
http://kcsparts.com/t/transfer-cases

Mod's...
He asked and you have to admit it is one heck of a 4-stroke better solution...
When I actually have them here I'll do a vendor post, or should I just make a post there now and reefer people to that topic?
Just trying to play by the rules ;-}
 
Thanks for posting pictures. Cool set-up!! Freewheel is kind of a new term to the bicycle newb... such as myself, so please forgive my ignorance. Is freewheel like a directional ratcheting effect (like my rear hub)? So does the bottom bracket freewheel when under power? Or is the freewheeling done on the the countershaft?

Do you have to raise the engine up and forward (than normal) to make room for the countershaft assy? I ask because, if I'm gauging scale effectively, the countershaft would be right where my vertical seat-post/frame post is. I have my engine mounted further down to fit a fuel tank.

I'd certainly be interested in learning more when you're ready to ship the units. Thanks!

Ken
 
After a lot of research, it would appear because of my 'odd-sized' Chinese bottom bracket... changing to the SBP is not an option for me. My fat tire bottom bracket is wide, 120mm with a 40mm BB shell. So the KCK 10G solution may need to wait for my next bike.

I also looked into a freewheeling rear hub/sprocket assembly, but again, the width of the rear hub on my bike is 170mm, much wider than the freewheeling hub in that kit.

I did manage to find a 4G that fits the 5/8" keyed shaft I currently have. Supposedly it has the 12t freewheeling gear that may help a little to reduce drag.

I also ordered a 60t rear sprocket. I'll lose my rear disc brake, but maybe it won't be needed with the slower speed and increased torque.

Anyhow, I continue to absorb and evaluate what's available out there. Thanks again for your comments. Very helpful.
 
Is freewheel like a directional ratcheting effect (like my rear hub)?
So does the bottom bracket freewheel when under power?
Or is the freewheeling done on the the countershaft?
Both.
On a shifter you have 2 input power sources to the same sprocket connected to the back wheel...
Your pedals, and the engine, and they don't play well together.

You need a freewheel on the engine power side so you don't have engine drag when pedaling...
This can be the output sprocket, in the secondary transfer pulley, or just the clutch bell.

And you need a pedal crank arm freewheel so your pedals don't beat you to death when the engine is turning the drive sprocket.
It is like a socket wrench and the handle is your crank arm.
The socket has 2 sprockets, one to drive your back wheel, and another for the engine to turn it.

Like a socket wrench you can turn it one way with the handle, but your can also just turn it the same way with your hand and the wrench does not move.

The downside to this is you can't back pedal for a coaster brake like some 3-speed hubs have.

it would appear because of my 'odd-sized' Chinese bottom bracket... changing to the SBP is not an option for me.
My fat tire bottom bracket is wide, 120mm with a 40mm BB shell.

I also looked into a freewheeling rear hub/sprocket assembly, but again, the width of the rear hub on my bike is 170mm, much wider than the freewheeling hub in that kit.
What 'Fat Tire' bike are you working with?
I don't even consider direct driving builds with actual outside tire width over ~2.75", they all get shift kits because the pedal side is always setup to clear the tire.

You seen the Fito's, here some even fatter tired bikes, a couple with 120mm BB's, and all have the SBP BB freewheel.

SunFat66cc7sR.jpg

MongooseFatR-1280.jpg

SlugoDoneRight-Covers.jpg

My electrics use the same BB system as gas, and the electrics have a freewheel drive sprocket.
 
I HAVE A
Ghost Racer 7G 49cc 4-Stroke Bicycle Engine Kit
Does anyone know why when I start it with the choke on it runs. The minute I put the choke in the proper spot it shuts off will not stay idle. I would appreciate any feedback please. You can email me at Richard@DanelianRealEstate.com

Thank you,
Richard
Start a new thread for proper response to a new issue.

Generally, only working with choke on points to an extremely lean condition such as clogged jet, stuck float, partially blocked petcock, etc.
 
The easiest way to increase torque is to ream out the fuel jet to 0.026 and
drill holes in the air filter cover to increase airflow. Check affordable go karts
to learn how to do this.
 
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