Can a maxtorque bushing type clutch be made to freewheel/converted to one way

Whether pull starting or bump starting, both the shoes and the drum would still spin the same direction.
 
Whether pull starting or bump starting, both the shoes and the drum would still spin the same direction.
The freewheel clutch's you speak of are for a manual friction plate clutch like 2-strokes have.

Yes you can put a freewheel there and it will coast drag free and still bump start, that is because your back wheel is going to a manual clutch plate controlled by your clutch lever.

4-strokes come with centrifugal clutches, which is what this topic in the 4-stroke forum is about correct?

This is a 4G 4-stroke centrifugal clutch system.

4SclutchBell.jpg


It only does 1 thing, it provides a power transfer between a fixed stationary bell based on input RPM of the source.

When enough rpm centrifugal force spinning pivoting pads with springs pulling them in is enough spread them out enough to grab the inside of the bell, they connect and then spin together.
Lower the rpm's and they disengage again and the bell freewheels.

Now, in order to bump start that 4-stroke system you need to pedal up the sprocket from the back wheel, which connects to what?

The clutch bell that is between your back wheel sprocket and the engine.

It doesn't matter which way you turn that bell, how fast, or it having a freewheel somewhere, that bell simply will not grab the engines stationary retracted clutch pads and turn the engine over.

I hope that helps you understand my short and accurate NO answer bud as I am not picking fights, just answering questions with facts.

Now if you just want say a 7G to freewheel before it has to go all the way through the drive train to the clutch and freewheel with no drag, you use a freewheel output sprocket on the transfer case.

Regardless, on a cent clutch, it only has one power input side and the output side is a 'both directions' freewheel.
 
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You clearly still do not understand what I am saying. You keep repeating the same crap. Going back and forth and repeating the same crap is not going to make us understand each other. Please stop.
 
What I am trying to say on the subject of freewheeling is this. I know from my own experience as well as researching on the web, bushing type clutches do not freewheel instantly. That's why you get engine braking with them. Even when you let off the throttle, there is still friction between the bushing and the part of the drum that moves the chain. This is a well known and documented occurrence. Needle bearings instantly release, because they are true one-way bearings. And there have been modifications performed on some bushing type clutches, I just can't find any info by googling. I am going to post a thread on a minibike forum about it. I am hopeful that there may be a needle bearing or ball bearing conversion that I can do, i just have not found the right information yet.
 
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I think I finally see what you are looking to do!

The clutch bell is on the engine shaft on a bushing along with the clutch itself keyed in like the Honda 4G or 7G, and not like the 4G 142F-1G with short shaft and clutch attached, which is completely independent.

You want the bell itself to be able to spin the engine to bump start without having to engage the clutch at all by using a 1-way bearing to mount the bell to the shaft.

Interesting idea and cool 'forward thinking'.
Mechanically that can certainly work too.

I suppose that could come in handy if you broke your pull rope or something.

I have moved most of my MB build business to 4-stroke because I don't want to do a workout every time I start it, and they come with pull starters.

I did try making a bearing option for the bushing in a 7G a year ago.
Results here: http://kcsbikes.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=762

Not at all worth the effort.

The main purpose of this is to give your belt system two pulleys on multiple good bearings.

The clutch bell is trying not to add friction to the system at idle when it is always being pulled tight at an angle by the belt tension.

Come up with a new clutch bell with bearings design that will fit and see what happens.
It would certainly make all long shaft 4-stroke engines an equal choice transfer case wise.
 
Actually bump starting would be a bonus if it happens at all. What I want is to eliminate the friction between the bushing and the clutch and hopefully eliminate the engine braking by doing so.
 
Actually bump starting would be a bonus if it happens at all. What I want is to eliminate the friction between the bushing and the clutch and hopefully eliminate the engine braking by doing so.
You must have a 7G as their only freewheel is the clutch bell.
4G's either have a freewheel in the secondary pulley or a freewheel sprocket output so wheel motion never even makes it to the belt let alone the clutch bell.

As mentioned I gave it a try and it was a waste of time and money so I haven't bought one since and rate them 'junk'.

All I can suggest is you measure the output shaft and see if you can find a freewheel sprocket to fit it.
 
while at the local hobby shop i picked up a hirobo (?) heli starter bearing in the specials bin. about a 12mm ID from memory, possibly larger.

all i know is that as they get larger...they get more expensive!

normal lil nitro starters are 6mm and useless, OS tends for an 8mm...still pretty useless.

you start looking at SKF bearing site and you can get pretty big ones. with hexes as options. cost a fortune...

but you get to the point where its better to go to a place that does...


torque convertors ;)

because the centre member of a torque convertor is mounted on a big fat one way bearing. sprag clutch. freebies?

you wont get bump start.

easier to mount the freewheel in the rear sprocket so you dont have to spin the chain either.

just the clutch bell and chain is a brake in itself... it becomes a step up gearbox in reverse.
 
You must have a 7G as their only freewheel is the clutch bell.
4G's either have a freewheel in the secondary pulley or a freewheel sprocket output so wheel motion never even makes it to the belt let alone the clutch bell.

As mentioned I gave it a try and it was a waste of time and money so I haven't bought one since and rate them 'junk'.

All I can suggest is you measure the output shaft and see if you can find a freewheel sprocket to fit it.

Since when have you ever heard of a maxtorque clutch on a kit transmission? This is for a 79cc predator with jackshaft plate. The clutch is on the crankshaft. Engine braking occurs in bushing clutches because after you let off the throttle, there is still friction between the bushing and the drum. You're supposed to be some kind of expert or something.
 
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