to rag or not to rag

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I started with the rag joint and later switched to a sprocket that bolted to the disk brake hub. The disk mount sprocket was much smoother, but far more more difficult to mount and adjust. Pick your poison.
 
Not sure why you need to adjust a sprocket that bolts flush to the hub? No truing necessary, so what is there to adjust if the sprocket isn't warped and all the holes are centered. I can understand it being a little harder to mount, though.
 
I went with a moped hub in the rear, the sprocket bolts directly to the hub, no rag joint or adapter is necessary. Say what you want about rags or adapters, this setup beats them all.
 
"Not sure why you need to adjust a sprocket that bolts flush to the hub?"
I mounted the sprocket and hub on the back of a cruiser bike made in the 1970s.
I probably would have needed no adjustments if I mounted it on a mountain bike. Spreading the dropouts didn't help.
My chain stay interfered with the sprocket.
-I trimmed the hub by 1/8" to create some room for the sprocket.
-There was still some interference after the trim job. I lengthened the chain and moved the chain tensioner rearward to create more clearance. (See pic)
 
whats that blue thing comming from the rear of the hub area? How did you mount the seat and where did you get the spring for it? The seat set up looks very comfortable and I might like to try it.
 
The blue thing is your basic clip-on flashing taillight. I bolted the ell shaped bracket to the axle. The bracket that held held my seat to the seat post had worn out. The seat would not stay level, no matter how much I tightened it. I slid the seat as far aft as possible. A second seat clamp, like my original one, connected the coil over shock to the rear of my seat. (My shock was salvaged from pocket rocket. You can get similar shocks on EBay for around 15 bucks). I cut a small notch in the bottom of the coil over shock, so that it fit over the cross brace in my frame. Then I secured the shock to the cross brace in the frame with zip ties. You can do most anything with a hack saw, file and zip ties.
 
gunna chuck in something no-one has mentioned.

"cush-drives"

this fancy rubber shock absorber stuck in the rear sprocket of just about every motorbike to take up the "jerks" in a chain drive.

notice that most cheap pitbikes dont have them...and suffer shredded spokes, shredded sprocket bolts, shredded teeth, etc... ive even stripped out the splines in a clutch at one point...

probably not really a big issue on sub horsepower setups(havent ever shredded teeth off on a motorised bike!) but still nice to actually have some "slop" in there...
 
a good cush drive out of a moped hub is nice, a ghetto cush drive made out of tire sidewall with spokes sandwiched between them isn't for me
 
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