BBR Tuning Sprocket Adapter with big sprocket?

spitfire42

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Hi there i am looking to buy and upgrade my sprocket system with this- http://www.bikeberry.com/bbr-tuning-sprocket-adapter-assembly.html
Ive read good reviews and think i will get it but first i wanna hear some opinions on what size sprocket i should get, i measured my hub and it was 28mm so the adapter size ill choose is the 1 inch. Currently i am running the stock 44 tooth, i have a hilly area and weigh 230lb so sometimes the bike struggles and i have to pedal, i want to know if i get the 48 or 58 tooth size will it help alot or just a little with climbing hills.
Thanks
 
I am running the stock 44 tooth,
i have a hilly area and weigh 230lb so sometimes the bike struggles and i have to pedal,
i want to know if i get the 48 or 58 tooth size will it help alot or just a little with climbing hills.
Thanks
A lot.
The higher the gear reduction you have (bigger rear sprocket) the more torque (pushing power) you have at the sacrifice of top speed.

I disagree with the gasbike junk copy adapter sprocket as well.
I don't like any of them really.
I find a properly installed 9 bolt spoke mount to be better than a 3 bolt hub mount, but ya do have to know how to do it right.
 
I never saw the manic mechanics thanks man, looks really good. They only have 48 tooth will an extra 4 teeth help much with my weight and hills? I guess i could always order a bigger sprocket. KCvale i dont care much about top speed, just want to let the engine have more torque and you prefer the regular mounting way, how to do fit it with out messing with the spokes?
 
don't know if this is still the case but if you contact him you can ask for whatever size you want. I ordered a 56 tooth from him that way a few years ago.

if not then I can get you in contact with someone who will do any size sprocket you want.
 
also look into getting an expansion chamber. MZMiami sells a damn good one for under $100. I'm a similar weight and with my 40 tooth sprocket I never have to pedal at all. a bit of internal work makes a huge difference with these engines.
 
They only have 48 tooth will an extra 4 teeth help much with my weight and hills?
Yes.
Your engines 10T to stock 44T = 4.4:1 gear reduction, a 48 gives 4.8:1.

KCvale, you prefer the regular mounting way, how to do fit it with out messing with the spokes?

There are topics and videos for mounting the stock sprocket but it's not hard.
Make sure the rear wheel is ture and the spokes are tight.
Then you just need to true the sprocket mount as you go, I do this with a fork in a vise so it is eye level, but you can just flip the bike over.

It has to be true in all three planes... up and down, back and forth, and wobble.

Easy to see with reference points behind the sprocket as you turn it.

you might be best off with a hub mount, 50-52T should give ya all the low end ya need.
 
Butre yes my motor is stock still with 2300kms on her so far and she does pull but im sure could pull harder with some upgrades, i have been reading abit about performance and most ppl seem the recommend a cdi, exhasut and carb as big things to get, only problem is theres so many different ones out there so takes time to see what ppl say about a product and choosing the right one, Im impressed you dont have to pedal even with a 40 tooth lol.

KCvale the stock rim eventually lost all the spokes because i was unaware that you have to keep them tight and true for the wheels health, with a new rim now i keep them tight and havnt had any issues for awhile, ive just herd good things about the hub locking sprocket and wanted to see what you guys thought of it. Thank you for the suggestion on sprocket size, i think i will need more than a 48 so im gonna go with the 52 just because the hills around here in burnaby bc are pretty bad, ive seen you can get a 64 tooth but that sounds like a torquey monster that will destroy top speed lol :cry:
 
I prefer the bolt on hub sprocket. KC is a professional builder, not a hobbyist or a racer. that means profit margins are more important to him than anything, so he learned to make the cheap rag joint sprocket work for him. I, on the other hand, need something that'll hold up to 55+ miles per hour when I have my little sprocket on, and when I'm offroading with the big sprocket won't give me troubles if I damage the wheel.

once your brakes are worth a damn and your driveline is sorted the next things to upgrade are expansion chamber, carburetor, and cylinder head in that order.
 
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