142f black oil

Just you're engine breaking in bro, run her thru her paces for a tank of gas then change it out every other tank after that 2X.. 10w-30 non synthetic you can switch later after the break in period. Lots of guys on here always talk about this lol
Good luck and have fun.
 
Thanks it's been good till now. The chain in the gear box come off I don't know y. So I am stuck now all looks good in side but the chain is loose eny idea
 
i just got a 142f 49cc and it get black oil really fast .are thay like that ???
Good advice and I suggest the best synth oil you can find after the first tank for engine longevity.

Simple really, when you check your oil, if it's dirty change it ;-}
figure every 25 hours of operation time as you can't go by miles.

This is a handy gizmo for run hours and engine RPM.
These are only $12 but only good for about a year and does not have replaceable batteries.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181762227405

I find a turkey baster works great for this. Just suck out the bad and squirt in the good from the oil filler.

The chain in the gear box come off I don't know y.
So I am stuck now all looks good in side but the chain is loose eny idea
The chain broke in, now it's loose, there is no way to adjust this, you just have to buy another new chain and repeat.

Or ditch that transfer case and get an adjustable belt drive.
Or if you'd rather I have a couple brand new ones you can have for cheap as I won't use them, ever.
E me.
 
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let me guess... you got it new and took it very easy, in case it was damaged as you broke it in?

experience shows that gentle breakins cause damage.

if you load them down, run them at full throttle with the brakes on so hard it can barely rev, the rings actually get a chance to bed into the cylinder bore. after letting them idle to a warm up...without feeling the urge to blip the throttle like most people do when starting an engine.

just start it, let it idle by itself til warm...then load it up as much as possible.

this only takes about ten minutes, tops. after that...use it as normal.

if any thing DOES break at this point...you got a lemon. look at the warranty card.

then you dont get any nasty blowby products contaminating your oil. your piston skirt remains clean. power is increased as compression is retained... the engine lasts longer. the valves tend to seat in better, the cylinder hone marksare smoothed off but remain, retaining oil and keeping the rings/skirt lubed up. blah blah, yarda yarda.

also, replace the oil at least 3 times in the first few hours of operation. dont bother with synthetics, just plain old 30W engine oil. especially on the initial break in!

ten minutes of aluminium and steel filings will destroy things, so imagine what 5 hours of gunk can do.

after all the shiny glitter stops coming out...its good to leave and change every 25 hours or so.
 
Rings do not bed in they set. Been building motorcycle engines for 40 plus years and before I ever run any new motor I heat cycle it 3 times. I know this works as I have motorcycle engines I have built with well over 100K still running fine. Proper break in is very important for the first 100 miles. Do it how ever you want I do it they way I have for years.
Jeff
 
Rings do not bed in they set. Been building motorcycle engines for 40 plus years and before I ever run any new motor I heat cycle it 3 times. I know this works as I have motorcycle engines I have built with well over 100K still running fine. Proper break in is very important for the first 100 miles. Do it how ever you want I do it they way I have for years.
Jeff
Pretty much the same here.
Warm it up and take it for a few laps around the block and bring it back in.
Make whatever adjustment may be needed and do it again.

Once everything seems right a long hard ride and if everything still seems right an oil change before the customer ever sees it.
That has served me well so far but there is also an idiot or two...
I am talking somebody so stupid they should never operate anything on the roadway and have no clue about what maintenance means.
 
I let my engines idle with out any load till they get where it is uncomfortable to touch. Then I let it cool all the way down and do that 2 more times. Like to get the rings to start setting before I put any load on it. Been doing it this way for over 40 years with out a problem even on my 2cycle RC buggy engines with out a problem so I am not going to chance. LOL
Jeff
 
you will have to explain just how rings "set".

considering a ring never sits still during operation?

and what benefit "heat cycling" has.

considering that all internal parts are factory "heat-treated"?

i like this picture, it shows how a piston SHOULD look when the engines "broken in" properly.
PistonMuseum3.jpg


note the carbon on the top...but nothing on the sides... well sealed rings.

whereas this is an example of a piston not broken in properly... the one in the foreground, anyways.

BreakInF3Pistons.jpg


same pistons, same engine even...just broken in differently.

i much prefer the ones that seal properly rather than suffer "blow-by"
 
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