Ive finally after a week built my bike and the only problem is that the chain is too long. I went out to buy a removal tool and couldnt find anything. I tried to grind it and hit it with a nail any other ideas? I dont want to wait for the tool
Cutting chain with no tool?
- Thread starter Quinnmca
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bakaneko
Well-Known Member
If you have an Ace hardware store, they have a chain breaker there and can do it for a low cost or free. I got it done for free because I am literally in there all the time buying bolts and nuts and developed a great relationship with all of them. Ace has a workshop area where the hardware stuff is. Either that you can hit it with a hammer or nail over the O of a wrench. It will come out eventually but you will probably go crazy before it does. They oil the chain really well.
Timbone
Well-Known Member
To remove link with minimal tool access:
Grind off the outside part of the pin where you want to break the chain. Use a motor grinder and work it down flush to the side plate. No grinder? Use a dremel or similar tool. No dremel? Use a file / rasp and patiently grind the pin all the way down smooth to the side plate.
To remove the ground pin, elevate the chain slightly using something that leaves a place for the pin to go (like a not). Find something small and round ( like a small drill bit) and hammer the pin out.
Grind off the outside part of the pin where you want to break the chain. Use a motor grinder and work it down flush to the side plate. No grinder? Use a dremel or similar tool. No dremel? Use a file / rasp and patiently grind the pin all the way down smooth to the side plate.
To remove the ground pin, elevate the chain slightly using something that leaves a place for the pin to go (like a not). Find something small and round ( like a small drill bit) and hammer the pin out.
Comandoriv
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butre
Well-Known Member
angle grinder, dremel, etc. grind off the face of a pin and then pound it out
bakaneko
Well-Known Member
okay, the other thing if you haven't already thought about it is the position of your chain tensioner. If you have the regular (non-spring) tensioner make sure the roller is on the bottom. this will allow you to move the roller up and adjust the slack in the chain as it stretches during the first 20 miles of running the bike.
obviously, this is useful if you just want to do a small adjustment without removing a link or where the adjustment is minor. if you get the chain cut at ace hardware and are without a chain breaker, this would help.
obviously, this is useful if you just want to do a small adjustment without removing a link or where the adjustment is minor. if you get the chain cut at ace hardware and are without a chain breaker, this would help.
Hello Moto!
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You can buy a metal punch slightly smaller than the roller pin in the chain and use it to pound out the pin. I did this and didn't have to grind on it. Worked great. A good chain tool is a worthwhile investment for both chain sizes on your bike though.
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
I have not seen this type of chain breaker...
I can't see how it could even work to shorten a chain and leave the end intact for re-connection. I mean that's the whole point!
Basic chain breaking:
Chains have 2 parts. The inner part that has the rollers and such, and connecting plates.
A master link is just a connecting plate you can remove.
For that you need to know which pin you remove in the chain, but the leftover dangling plates end up on the waste piece so you have two inner link chain ends to re-connect with a master link outer plate.
For a 2-stroke build this works well.
1. Pull out your spark so there is no compression.
2. Feed your chain up on to the engine sprocket by turning the sprockets retaining nut CLOCKWISE in the normal path of chain flow.
3. Get any tensioner out of the way and run the chain all the way to the back and half way down the sprocket and tight.
Then run the bottom up and around the sprocket tight and look at the links.
4. Marking the link pin is crucial, get a sharpie or a felt pen as trying to mark the pin with your finger is an exercise in frustration ;-}
5. Just find the best pin to remove that leaves the connecting plates on the waste side and mark it well!
Last edited:
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bakaneko
Well-Known Member
I have not seen this type of chain breaker...
I can't see how it could even work to shorten a chain and leave the end intact for re-connection. I mean that's the whole point!
Basic chain breaking:
Chains have 2 parts. The inner part that has the rollers and such, and connecting plates.
A master link is just a connecting plate you can remove.
For that you need to know which pin you remove in the chain, but the leftover dangling plates end up on the waste piece so you have two inner link chain ends to re-connect with a master link outer plate.
For a 2-stroke build this works well.
1. Pull out your spark so there is no compression.
2. Feed your chain up on to the engine sprocket by turning the sprockets retaining nut CLOCKWISE in the normal path of chain flow.
3. Get any tensioner out of the way and run the chain all the way to the back and half way down the sprocket and tight.
Then run the bottom up and around the sprocket tight and look at the links.
4. Marking the link pin is crucial, get a sharpie or a felt pen as trying to mark the pin with your finger is an exercise in frustration ;-}
5. Just find the best pin to remove that leaves the connecting plates on the waste side and mark it well!
the bottom opens up to grab just beneath the chain plate. then u just turn the top lever and position the point over the pin. then keep turning till the pin is out. it works and doesnt ruin the pin or chain
Comandoriv
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I have not seen this type of chain breaker...
I can't see how it could even work to shorten a chain and leave the end intact for re-connection. I mean that's the whole point!
Basic chain breaking:
Chains have 2 parts. The inner part that has the rollers and such, and connecting plates.
A master link is just a connecting plate you can remove.
For that you need to know which pin you remove in the chain, but the leftover dangling plates end up on the waste piece so you have two inner link chain ends to re-connect with a master link outer plate.
For a 2-stroke build this works well.
1. Pull out your spark so there is no compression.
2. Feed your chain up on to the engine sprocket by turning the sprockets retaining nut CLOCKWISE in the normal path of chain flow.
3. Get any tensioner out of the way and run the chain all the way to the back and half way down the sprocket and tight.
Then run the bottom up and around the sprocket tight and look at the links.
4. Marking the link pin is crucial, get a sharpie or a felt pen as trying to mark the pin with your finger is an exercise in frustration ;-}
5. Just find the best pin to remove that leaves the connecting plates on the waste side and mark it well!
Huh? I use this ALL THE TIME. On my motorized bike, on my dirtbike, on my two motorcycles. It works perfectly fine and was a great investment. It doesn't destroy the chain, all it does is push out the pin. It can be used while a chain is still on the sprocket, and takes less then a minute to use!
It wouldn't be the #1 best selling chain breaker on amazon for no reason.
