Carby Keihin carb clone

SRPM

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Westminster, CO
I made a thread more vague about this so I'm making a new, more specific post.
So I'm looking for anyone that has used one of these clones with any info they can provide. Mainly I'm looking for jets for it and like tunning advice for the dang thing. Here are a couple pics to show what it looks like and show what markings are on it.
 

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How is your bike running with that setup i have the same thing and my bike is boggy and slugish are you having the same results if so alot of people been telling me i need to do some porting because of the reed valve i also read somewhere that if you use the box reed valve and your not running a ported Cylinder that it restricts the fuel flow not really sure how accurate this info is but as far as tuning you may have yo adjust the c-clip position on the needle and there is an idle adjustment screw on the right side of the carb under your seat but if you do find some jets for this carb do let me know which is also still something we might have to do
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Also wanted to ask you about that little hose coming from the bottom you have it pluged in the side by the fuel intake at first thought thats what i thought i was supposed to do so i just let it hang but are you supposed yo plug it in the shaft by the fuel intake?
 
Nice bike. I'm not having any real boging or being sluggish Im a little more and less than a mile above sea level and I'm not running the long poopoo pipe tho too. I have good power down low (when I'm taking off from a stop) just not much top end power or speed (27 average mph and it has trouble getting up smallish hills. I have heard these box reed valves suck and that the rse reed valve is way better.I have not heard anything about having to do porting, that could be true but I know yours and mine have ported cylinders. As far as the tubes, there is a fuel inlet(obviously) the other one on top is fuel bowl vent and the one on the bottom I have not figured out, if you take the fuel bowl off you can see the nipple on the outside leads in to a needley thing that seems the sit above the fuel level. I have adjusted the c-clip on needle up one and set the idle screw and idle air/fuel screw. I've done lots of research for jets and have found the right ones but they are $6-7 a piece. Here's what I found:
Jet overall length: 7mm
Jet head diameter: 5mm
Jet thread diameter: 3.9mm my actual measurement was 3.87 mm
Jet size measures .68mm
So taking the jet measurements I found that the matching jets are from a Keihin 99101-116 carb or a Keihin N424-35 nickel plated, both are the same one is just nickel plated and are the same price. They are available on jetsrus.com.
Here is the link to the jets:

https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_c...hin_99101-116_main_round_small_and_38-xxx.htm
See as they are so expensive and not knowing exactly what size jet I have I went and bought some solder and some micro drill bits from the hobby shop down the road and a rotary micro drill bit set from harbor freight. Bought the set to determine what bit size the jet was. Turns out its is a #72 sized bit from Excel Hobby Blades they are $8 for 12 bits of the same size (they do break easily) so maybe not cheaper but I know I can solder and re drill over and over and over again. I will be drilling to #74 and we'll see how that dose when it warms back up.
When rejetting remember the reed valve tends to richen things up a little because the air moving through the carb then has to "wait" in the space behind the carb and before the reeds I'm not 100% on that but think about how the air is flowing. Here's a pic of what I did with my "tubes".
 

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Looks like you dont have the high comp. head on the engine too. Could be part of the boggy sluggishness.
 
Sorry that I'm just remember this but it is really important that you make sure your spark plug is actually connected, mine was not and I had a very disappointing first start up and run. It could not rev up well at all and could have been boggy and sluggish but I never ride on my first start up its just a check for me to make sure everything is good and to start the break in process. All you have to do is under screw the little connector piece on top off the spark plug leaving the threads exposed (pic) and you'll have purrrfect connection. And this is with the supercharged CDI.
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Sorry that I'm just remember this but it is really important that you make sure your spark plug is actually connected, mine was not and I had a very disappointing first start up and run. It could not rev up well at all and could have been boggy and sluggish but I never ride on my first start up its just a check for me to make sure everything is good and to start the break in process. All you have to do is under screw the little connector piece on top off the spark plug leaving the threads exposed (pic) and you'll have purrrfect connection. And this is with the supercharged CDI.View attachment 71859
that depends on your plug boot. I have to unscrew the nipple but many boots don't require that. also it's worth noting that many spark plugs don't have the option of unscrewing the nipple
 
I don't think so, I've heard they can be to much and can cause the plating from the cylinder walls to flake off. I just noticed it wasn't on yours and could be effecting the tuning.
 
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