Questions for motorpsycho...
it's not so much the tensioner that causes these issues...it's poorly made parts. if you get a sprocket that's not machined almost perfectly, you will have issues. almost every kit comes with a poorly made sprocket. Chain alignment, and perfectly centered sprockets are the key.
motorpsycho,
I've finally got my chain tensioning problems under control. I used the kit tensioner bracket. But I attached a 17-tooth idler sprocket from Tractor Supply Co., made specifically for #40 and #41 chain (SKU #: 1182009, $19.99). The idler sprocket has a 1/2" bore, so I had to drill out the top of the tensioner bracket's slot to 1/2" and attach the sprocket with a 1/2" x 2" bolt. On the opposite side of the bracket, the bolt got fitted with: 1) a flat washer, 2) a lockwasher, 3) a nut, 4) a push nut (to hide the end of the bolt).
The sprocket can't move up and down in the bracket's slot because of the larger hole that was drilled in the top of the slot: Now, adjustment of chain tension is done by moving the bracket horizontally on the chainstay.
The kit bracket won't rotate into the spokes because, on my bike, the chainstay portion of the frame that it attaches to is oval-shaped. And, so both the upper and lower bracket fasteners can be tightened evenly, I took up the gap between the two sides of the bracket with flat washers (4 each on the top and bottom).
The black finish that you see on the bracket in the attached picture is tough plastic sheet material (cut from the cover of a 3-ring binder) that is firmly affixed to the bracket with 2-side rubber contact cement. I did the same thing to both sides of the 56-tooth drive sprocket. This is strictly for appearance sake.
Finally, my questions: When you say that a poorly-made sprocket will cause issues, are you referring to the overall production of the sprocket, the accuracy of the drilling of the hub adapter (or rag joint) holes, or both? I've got an aluminum hub adapter that attaches to the sprocket with three bolts. And I DO experience varying tension in the chain as I rotate the rear tire: at one point it's got about an inch of play on the upper run of chain, and at the other extreme it's got virtually no tension at another point in the rotation.
Do you think this is the fault of the sprocket? The chain? And should I be concerned about it?
Thanks for your attention!
it's not so much the tensioner that causes these issues...it's poorly made parts. if you get a sprocket that's not machined almost perfectly, you will have issues. almost every kit comes with a poorly made sprocket. Chain alignment, and perfectly centered sprockets are the key.
motorpsycho,
I've finally got my chain tensioning problems under control. I used the kit tensioner bracket. But I attached a 17-tooth idler sprocket from Tractor Supply Co., made specifically for #40 and #41 chain (SKU #: 1182009, $19.99). The idler sprocket has a 1/2" bore, so I had to drill out the top of the tensioner bracket's slot to 1/2" and attach the sprocket with a 1/2" x 2" bolt. On the opposite side of the bracket, the bolt got fitted with: 1) a flat washer, 2) a lockwasher, 3) a nut, 4) a push nut (to hide the end of the bolt).
The sprocket can't move up and down in the bracket's slot because of the larger hole that was drilled in the top of the slot: Now, adjustment of chain tension is done by moving the bracket horizontally on the chainstay.
The kit bracket won't rotate into the spokes because, on my bike, the chainstay portion of the frame that it attaches to is oval-shaped. And, so both the upper and lower bracket fasteners can be tightened evenly, I took up the gap between the two sides of the bracket with flat washers (4 each on the top and bottom).
The black finish that you see on the bracket in the attached picture is tough plastic sheet material (cut from the cover of a 3-ring binder) that is firmly affixed to the bracket with 2-side rubber contact cement. I did the same thing to both sides of the 56-tooth drive sprocket. This is strictly for appearance sake.
Finally, my questions: When you say that a poorly-made sprocket will cause issues, are you referring to the overall production of the sprocket, the accuracy of the drilling of the hub adapter (or rag joint) holes, or both? I've got an aluminum hub adapter that attaches to the sprocket with three bolts. And I DO experience varying tension in the chain as I rotate the rear tire: at one point it's got about an inch of play on the upper run of chain, and at the other extreme it's got virtually no tension at another point in the rotation.
Do you think this is the fault of the sprocket? The chain? And should I be concerned about it?
Thanks for your attention!