212cc predator transmission

I have an old JC Higgins frame that seems like a good bike, I think it should hold up..... I made my own layback seat;), the only I'm scared of is wheels..... Have a double wall rimed disc brake front wheel with 12-13 gauge spokes
Trying to find a double wall rimed coaster brake with the ability to add rim brakes..... Not having much luck:D

Probably going to end up cheaping out and just buying that CVT..... I don't have very good experience with building things like that.... I try and buy something (usually end up over paying) and build a replica of that.

I still have to sell my 2 stroke board track racer, hopefully I can get a decent amount out of it
 

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Ill end up painting the bike, going rat rod with bling (cause after you seen this motor.... It would make you drool:p)
Gotta love polished aluminum:)

Plus I like rat rods because if you scratch them, oh well:)
Dent them? Building Character;)

Drool on them? Wipe it off
 
That cvt sucks. Although it's the easiest way to get your bike running, you'll find soon that you seek something leaner and smoother. Eats power with a fresh belt peak efficiency of 95% and only gets much worse, too much engine braking, smokes belts on hill climbs, difficult to change driven unit springs, weighs approx 20lbs and if you fail to tighten a part down and it blows up you'll never find the pieces. Go with a single speed, gear it approx 7.3:1 and use a $30 max torque clutch with a spring rated for 3100rpm or so (agk). Use whatever chain your sprocket is for. You can use #41 on sprockets as thin as 1/8" but it will wear the chain faster. My sprocket is .156" so there is .093 wiggle room but it doesn't bother me. As for a jackshaft I think agk sells a single speed jackshaft kit. This is the best option in my opinion and you will save at least 10lbs and have only clutch shoes to replace at $12 for a set, probably once in 2000 miles.



I disagree. That cvt clearly eats up a ton of your power, my bike does the same 48mph with significantly less power but a 2-speed twin clutch/twin js 4-chain trans. 150cc Briggs FLATHEAD with awful compression and flow in comparison to ohv and only mod a .030 shaved head. two days ago I hand ground my own performance cam (plastic Briggs cam filed down base circle) and advanced timing. Now although it won't rev any more than the springs allow the butt dyno tells me I can go back up to a 7.6:1 from my current gearing of 8.15:1.

2nd thing, that whole thing about not using an mt for over 30 is complete BS. Assuming a 26" wheel with 7.7:1 ratio which is 100rpm per mph, yes it's true, a stock clutch geared for 50 at 5k will burn because it is locking far too early. A clutch needs to slip smoothly with a reasonable lockup speed. A heavy spring will fix this; i.e. Full lockup of 35ish instead of stock 20ish. FYI I put over 1500mi on my single speed setup with 8:1 ratio like this all on the same shoes and spring.

3rd, the price of the mount and JS is reasonable in my opinion. It took me 30mins to make my aluminum mount blocks on a Bridgeport. Ghettos mounts have built in sealed bearings apparently which require precision boring in the metal, overall probably takes 2-4 hrs of small quantity production work for one set. Typical machine shop rates are around $100/hr, maybe more or less. For the price of the ghetto setup you could have bought a flux mig welder and Bmi hangers and done it yourself but it would take a few hours to do the welding, prep, etc, not to mention all your mistakes like burning through the frame as a newbie. depends on what you bill yourself at. $25 an hour? It's the same price or cheaper. $50 an hour? Save time and hassle for a day of your work.

4th, nobody runs bone stock motors off the shelf. A 212 with a normal air filter, header pipe, governor delete and rejet carb will make an easy 9hp. 6hp is at its governed speed of 3300 or so...


5th, The smart choice is to "work smart" and make the money doing what you get paid highest to do best and pay somebody else who has done a few of these to setup or fabricate your transmission (or buy a ready made jackshaft). Or you'll end up like me, working on this extremely difficult project for a dollar an hour. My project? First bike- Hours? No idea. Hundreds of hours. Including Internet research. Total cost billed at $25 an hour? over 10k... Of course my next bike will cost me around $1200 parts and maybe 50hrs of work..

Go to agk, get their jackshaft kit, get a max torque clutch and buy the green spring? Buy a few, 2800, 3100, 3300 and also buy 6 heavy shoes. Running an even heavier spring with heavy shoes will further smooth out the lockup.


FYI the power of the 212 will eat regular bicycle components. You must upgrade everything and start with a very strong frame such as a felt. I've had two frame cracks on my bike both in the rear... The second one I was going about 40 and I felt it right away was very scary.....
With your setup can u go offroading/trail riding? Thats all i do i barley find myself on a road mainly because my bikes illegal my over geared cvt setup is the best hands down for offroading i go to pits and ride this "thing" like its a dirtbike my belt does wear at a good rate probly ever 6 months i get a new belt but thats because im overgeared to do 50mph instead of the recommended 45mph i hate a single speed slow of the line clutch except those 200$ ones those kick ass but a centrifugal clutch trail riding geared to do 50mph im sorry u wont do to well my opinion is "offroad/bashing only "

Here a pic of my "Thing"
20160617_150943.jpg
20160617_151034.jpg

And idc how much time was spent. paying for a mount that cost more than the build itself is nutz with a 30$ clutch 2 bearing hangers and bearings a 5in 5/8 shaft and a few sprockets and a mounting plate (i have a welder) i can make the same tranny ghetto bike spends hours of work on for less than half the price may not look like a block of computer cut loveliness but it does the same job and has the same purpose.

And why is there a urge to put a highly modded go kart engine on a flimsy bicycle i mean mines steel all around and even my honda has tooo much power for a bike.
stay away for the alluminum fellow MBers
And tony verynice bike sir!

I know alot but not everything thats y im here live and learn
 
Does your pedals work? I wanted to have pedals so a cop couldn't say anything about it not being a bicycle

Have you ever had any trouble with cops? I was wanting to take my 212cc sticker off and put 49cc sticker in its place just for the extra precaution
 
Dont get me wrong it is highly illegal i have been stoped and they told me i was nuts but never hassled me about it and no my pedals dont work right now they are just pegs
I only do offroading anyways
 
I finally got the motor.... It's even shinier since its mine now:)

The transmission it has on it now was for a go kart, I guess I could probably use it? It takes a 35 chain is the problem I'm having using that transmission...... Any suggestions?
 
Ya you need #41 pitch thats what i use and on the jackshaft where the bigger pully is is the sprocket between the plate and pully or on the outside toward the back of the plate if its between then youll need to mount the motor off to the right by 5 or so inches to aline the sprockets
 
Ya you need #41 pitch thats what i use and on the jackshaft where the bigger pully is is the sprocket between the plate and pully or on the outside toward the back of the plate if its between then youll need to mount the motor off to the right by 5 or so inches to aline the sprockets
I'm kind of a noob (a lot of noob) with the 4 stroke gearing, but what your saying is that I just need to make sure the sprockets line up?

Could I find a 35# chain and sprocket too use that way i can keep the good clutch?
Or should I use the belt clutch that comes with that BB kit? I feel like that belt wouldn't last long (we have Polaris RZR side by sides and if your too rough on them your belt gets slipped and then your SOL)
 
I'm kind of a noob (a lot of noob) with the 4 stroke gearing, but what your saying is that I just need to make sure the sprockets line up?

Could I find a 35# chain and sprocket too use that way i can keep the good clutch?
Or should I use the belt clutch that comes with that BB kit? I feel like that belt wouldn't last long (we have Polaris RZR side by sides and if your too rough on them your belt gets slipped and then your SOL)
Just buy a sprocket and chain for it 10 t #41 pitch (5/8 bore?) and just replace the #35 one with the #41 sprocket then align the rear with then new sprocket add a chain and ur off but theres a trick ....
i have a bike with a honda gx 160 pressure washer motor and a tav2 torque converter and with 26" tires and a 48t sprocket its geared to do 75mph witch isnt possible with a 6 hp motor i then put a 20" tire with a 44t sprocket and now im geared to do 50 mph.
every torque converter recommends max speeds of 45mph so u dont slipp the belt alot and wear it out in ur first ride like i did 3x in a row.
So already from the start ur going to go thru belts. i go thru 3 belts a year
 
I'm kind of a noob (a lot of noob) with the 4 stroke gearing, but what your saying is that I just need to make sure the sprockets line up?

Could I find a 35# chain and sprocket too use that way i can keep the good clutch?
Or should I use the belt clutch that comes with that BB kit? I feel like that belt wouldn't last long (we have Polaris RZR side by sides and if your too rough on them your belt gets slipped and then your SOL)
Heres pics of my monster
20160617_151034.jpg
20160617_151023.jpg
1466983237993-1074337454.jpg
1466983266902548371534.jpg
1466983317916647969961.jpg
 
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