How do I weld motor mount?

[Jeffrey gagnon]

Essentially the idea with the V twins nobody has really an actual V-Twin on a bike and i haven't seen anything on YouTube so why not be the first

 

[Jeffrey gagnon]

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

 

[Jeffrey gagnon]

Heres where i know i would add hi tensile steel tubing to add extra support for the frame

 

[Chris Duke]

Heres where i know i would add hi tensile steel tubing to add extra support for the frame View attachment 73355

Not needed. A welded mount 'plate' would only strengthen the frame tubing. It would act as an extra part of the frame further increasing it's rigidity/strength. Not all frames are equal, and as such, some of them could have adverse effects to extra rigidity added to them. For example, Moly does not act the same as mild steel. One flexes more than the other, and the other is prone to breakage at the weld joint if not expertly welded. As in, a HF splatter box is not appropriate for welding moly tubing. It will break 1/8 to 1/4" away from weld joint.
A welded mounting plate is 4 stroke application. In a 2 stroke application, any adverse effects would be minimum concerning rigidity due to the fact that the stresses are transferred threw the engine.

That all being said, unless you are making some serious torque (150+cc engine), it shouldn't be much concern unless you are talking about a Huffy/cheap Wallyworld frame. I can't even imagine a China girl or 49cc 4 stroke causing any additional problems to a good welded frame from only one additional welded part/plate from the extra rigidity it would get from such an addition.

Personally, I think the 4 stroke mounting plates, and the 2 stroke junk I see in these kits should be eliminated to create nice bikes. Welding on mounts and plates & tabs and brackets to frame will be the only way I'll ever consider a project complete. I had to sell my Miller Tig some time ago, would never consider my Lincoln Mig for the job, but can always outsource for such small jobs.

In addition to that, what I'm thinking about doing, is to cut slightly larger tubing in 1/2, then welding it to frame contact points where the mounts/plates will be attached. This way, when you weld mounting plate/tabs to frame, you are spreading out the stress area on your (unknown strength/age/potentially brittle) tubing. Less chance of stress cracks at the welded mounting joints this way.

 

[Frankfort MB's]

Not needed. A welded mount 'plate' would only strengthen the frame tubing. It would act as an extra part of the frame further increasing it's rigidity/strength. Not all frames are equal, and as such, some of them could have adverse effects to extra rigidity added to them. For example, Moly does not act the same as mild steel. One flexes more than the other, and the other is prone to breakage at the weld joint if not expertly welded. As in, a HF splatter box is not appropriate for welding moly tubing. It will break 1/8 to 1/4" away from weld joint.
A welded mounting plate is 4 stroke application. In a 2 stroke application, any adverse effects would be minimum concerning rigidity due to the fact that the stresses are transferred threw the engine.

That all being said, unless you are making some serious torque (150+cc engine), it shouldn't be much concern unless you are talking about a Huffy/cheap Wallyworld frame. I can't even imagine a China girl or 49cc 4 stroke causing any additional problems to a good welded frame from only one additional welded part/plate from the extra rigidity it would get from such an addition.

Personally, I think the 4 stroke mounting plates, and the 2 stroke junk I see in these kits should be eliminated to create nice bikes. Welding on mounts and plates & tabs and brackets to frame will be the only way I'll ever consider a project complete. I had to sell my Miller Tig some time ago, would never consider my Lincoln Mig for the job, but can always outsource for such small jobs.

In addition to that, what I'm thinking about doing, is to cut slightly larger tubing in 1/2, then welding it to frame contact points where the mounts/plates will be attached. This way, when you weld mounting plate/tabs to frame, you are spreading out the stress area on your (unknown strength/age/potentially brittle) tubing. Less chance of stress cracks at the welded mounting joints this way.

I'm pretty sure that bike is aluminum.... I had a buddy who put a HT on one of them and it help up a lot better than I was expecting

 

[Jeffrey gagnon]

Hey so im looking at some of these mig gas less electric welders on ebay for under $100.00, now my question is would any welder be good for welding supports or brakets?
Do i need a specific type of welder?
Does it need to be gas or can i use electric?

 

[Frankfort MB's]

Hey so im looking at some of these mig gas less electric welders on ebay for under $100.00, now my question is would any welder be good for welding supports or brakets?
Do i need a specific type of welder?
Does it need to be gas or can i use electric?

All Mig welders are electric....
The best welder to start out on
(and least expensive) is a flux core welder
(aka gas less)

A Mig will do everything you need to do, it might not be efficient in all circumstances but it will get the job done pretty clean

 

[Jeffrey gagnon]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/200AMP-DC-Inv...Steel-110v-220v-Dual-/131653532236?nav=SEARCH

Would this be ideal i know a tank of argon gonna run like 50-100

 

[Frankfort MB's]

That's a TIG welder.... A lot different process, you have to be a really good welder before you can use one of them and be good

All of the materials for Tig are a lot more expensive than Mig

I recommend a Mig welder because it will do all you need to do (beware it won't weld aluminum w/o a special wire)