Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
- Local time
- 12:31 PM
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2016
- Messages
- 5,035
Hey that's a great idea actually, never thought about using those as alarms, so simple and the sizes they come in can make it almost impossible to notice, I'd go with a smallish one and stick it under my seat or on the front fork or something, too many choices for this, then attach one of those carabiner clips to the pull end, Mount it so I have a place to keep it "disengaged" while riding, think key loop zip tied to frame, and when I want to use it as an alarm just clip it to the spokes or frame (if using fork as my mount, so turning wheel yanks the alarm) and there you go, moving the bike forward or back will throw te alarm and it doesn't shut off untill the peg is put back.
Oh and I also forgot to mention my double pull brake is actually for a scooter I think, it has a brake light switch in it, but the point of mentioning is it also has a parking brake button, it's basically the same exact idea as the stock clutch lever that comes with the kit, you squeeze the lever and push the button, that prevents it from rolling untill you squeeze the brake and release. Since I use that to prevent the nasty parked bike crawl (you know, moves untill front wheel turns, then falls over) it also helps prevent people from trying to roll it anywhere.
I would think if you used a modified hasp or decent sized padlock you could squeeze your brake lever, and lock the lever against the handlebars, this prevents any rolling around by a thief, if your using a lock on the wheel you can roll the bike wheels till they are tight on the lock, making manipulation difficult, then lock the brakes, so it's a sitting duck that only can sit. Only way around that is cutting the lock, which would prove a bit harder to do on a tight fitted handle, or cutting the brakes, which is probably not a good idea, and still keeps the throttle assembly locked hard in place, so no motorized fun, just pedaling without brakes.
I know all these "solutions" are not what you wanted, but your hopes at an easily removable motor is just too far out of reach, mostly because the security options are so plentiful and cheap enough that you just don't need to be able to remove the engine to protect your assets.. And bicycle motors are not easily removable by a long shot. In my case it involves removing the head of my engine first, then removing about 10 bolts from the various parts before I can struggle with 2 brackets and then the part of removing the actual motor, and that's with special or modified tools to make the job easier. But I have a jackshaft so... Yeah.
Put alarms on it, throw a beefy lock on it, and get a quick release front wheel, when you go shopping, pull the front wheel off, put locks on and alarm it, it won't go anywhere unless it sits for a week straight, then maybe the police will remove it for being parked on technically private property.
I would also think a motor that can be removed easily is actually not a solid motor, easily removable sounds like loose bolts or connections that will wear or break with the vibration from the engine, even of it was a friction mounted motor it would still have to be loose, because tight snug fitting connections have a tendency to bite into eachother, and become very hard to remove, I have this issue with my jackshaft bearings, the shaft and bearing surface is very snug, brand new they just slip together, after a day they are practically glued together, a week and I don't bother removing the bearing from the shaft, I remove the retaining clip and slide the assembly out. Anyone who's rebuilt a bottom end of one of these motors knows what it's like to try to remove the bearings at times. It's like trying to push an elephant through an eye of a needle. Not cool.
OK off topic a bit I know, just pointing out that it's not the motor you have to prevent thieves from stealing, it's the motorized bicycle, the most I had stolen from any properly locked bike was a loose fitting seat cover, after that I ran steel cable through the lanyard path and tightened on then used cable stops to prevent any removal of the cover unless they used a knife to cut the fabric, but that would leave them with a piece of garbage and a dull knife depending on their method. Again it takes too long and looks strange to onlookers so I've never had that problem again. Same with steel cables on the seat to the frame, discourages someone from trying to pull my seat, if they even notice the cable at all, helps to replace the seat bolts with standard wrench type instead of leaving a quick release if that's what it has. My seat post is quick release but the tube itself is crimped from my jackshaft brackets, anytime I want to remove my seat I need a 15mm wrench and 10 minutes to loosen the nuts, tight squeeze, then pliers and a screwdriver to take the cable off.
Yeah, bicycle related theft is an issue here, but not for me (except that one time, could have been prevented, a neighbor told me a few days before it was stolen they saw some kid trying to climb my fence, yelled at them and they left)
Generally speaking, of its going to take more than a couple minutes for a person to disable the security in public it's going to get looked over, if it starts crying for everyone to look at it when touched then it's going to be left alone as soon as it starts pointing fingers.
Seriously, heavy lock and chain, alarm, and try giving the brake locking method a go, that's just too much for a person to work with in a public place unless they wave a gun around, but then that's just inviting more trouble to their doorstep.
