Yeshua
New Member
Also the BBR tuning studs I'm putting in are hex heads. Should I just put hex adapter on torque wrench or put nuts between stud heads and crush washer to use wrench normally?
Run it the way you got it.Also the BBR tuning studs I'm putting in are hex heads. Should I just put hex adapter on torque wrench or put nuts between stud heads and crush washer to use wrench normally?
Makes sense sorry I'm a noob. But the slant head is on backwards.Run it the way you got it.
you have no understanding of what you are doing.
Adding nuts under the allen heads will make the studs too short and how
the hell could you get a wrench on the nut with the fins in the way???
Of course you would have to use an allen bit.
I recommend you don't change the studs.
There is no problem with the head facing in either direction.Makes sense sorry I'm a noob. But the slant head is on backwards.
I'm sorry did you just call me a noob lol?No!!!
You can never get a flat surface with a sander.
You are seeing problems that aren't there.
The sealing ring on the head is about the same height as
the thickness of the 25 thousands head gasket.
Of course you are going to see a gap.
The top of the cylinders are nice and flat.
The heads can occasionally warp but it is not that common.
You are getting bad advice from a noob.
I have the same experience as crassius, my heads have a machined flat surface.
Leave the cylinder and head unmolested and don't change the studs to allen bolts.
Never screw in to your bike frame it's just a weak spot for it to brake .and to stop tank leaks just glue the tank to the bike frame with silicone from the start do up the bolts lightly till glue is dry then you can take off the bolts put them in the bin if you like .or keep for looksPlug hole best put whatever way it best fits, mine had to face forward.
For the head issue, glass and fine sandpaper, both the head and the cylinder top, this will help compression a tiny bit but will make for a very nice flush seal, usually the head and cylinder gasket only meet up right around the cylinder hole, it doesn't extend all the way to the headbolts. If you understand what I mean.
Also use a couple extra washers on each headbolt, this prevents the acorn nuts from bottoming out and preventing good torque.
Word of advice for gas tank leaks, don't try to prevent them, it's like trying to fight city hall, takes a lot of work to make it happen so don't try just do it all in one shot. The paint isn't all that gas resistant, putting jb weld on top of it will just let the fuel eat the paint and then it leaks anyways, the jb weld usually cracks too.
Use a tube of something called seal-all, it's a gas and oil resistant sealant, just remove paint from the tank and studs where the sealant will be applied, I used a steady hand and a cut off wheel in a dremel to get the paint of the surrounding area, then a steel wire wheel in the same tool on the stud. Apply liberally and in multiple coats. After all set and done, put a strip of old ture tube between the frame and tank, you can use seal all to glue the tube to the tank if wanted. Tighten the strap on the studs down to the frame LIGHTLY! I emphasize lightly, it only needs to be barely snug on the frame so it can be rather easily rotated by hand on the tube. Get a self tapping sheet metal screw, like used on a license plate, drill a small pilot hole through one strap and right into the bike frame, use the self tapper in that hole, this will prevent the tank from twisting on the frame, while also lessens the stress on the studs, which ultimately causes leaks.
What about at least changing the mounting bolts? I keep hearing horror stories about them breaking off. I'd rather not have that happen. A few American made bolts from Lowe's is. Just a few bucks. Nothing rong with preventative maintenance. Just taking the advice often put here on this forum. Also plan atlest to change the plug to a NGK B6HS. Do you know if that would fit in a slant head without hitting piston? Also what's a good gap for that plug? I've read anywhere from .23-.35. Thanks please have patience with meYou might want to leave all as it came, then replace bolts as you spot problems - this can be a good way to develop an understanding of how these act, and what it takes to fix them.