drilled hole too far to mount head and jug

my main concern would be tailings that fell into the case - they might be stuck in the bearing cage where they could lock up the motor at some point when they work loose

consider a new motor with the old one just for parts
 
my main concern would be tailings that fell into the case - they might be stuck in the bearing cage where they could lock up the motor at some point when they work loose

consider a new motor with the old one just for parts

I turned the motor upside down and sprayed a whole can of brake
kleen in there and now my plan is to fill it with gas/oil mixture, swoosh it around a bit
and do that again dump it out and cross my fingers. I have a new motor I ordered yesterday
that hopefully will arrive shortly, so I have everything covered except Murphy's Law.
 
Oh yeah that damn Murphy getting his dirty gremlins in everything.

I don't think the crank is a problem but I also didn't know you drilled a hole the far into the crank, I used the tissue idea on a helicoil in a transmission case that had been drilled too deeply, far as I know they haven't had problems with leaks, and that hot atf can dissolve some pretty tough stuff with time.

I think that you will have problems with the shavings being in the motor unless you litteraly split the case and do a full scrub. It is your motor however, I just know the wrist pin bearing is really rather delicate to contaminants, once it starts failing it can take the rest of the motor down with it pretty quick, imagine the shrapnel of half a dozen hardened steel pins being dragged through your main bearings, con rod big bearing, and across your piston, rings and cylinder at 5000 rpm... A few seconds of that and the engine's toast.
 
Hey Bob, the spraying Brake Kleen into the cylinder is 50% likely to be successful in my experience.
A cast iron cylinder will swallow aluminum chips without worry but these chromed aluminum cylinders will score easily.
For the effort and expense, good idea to disassemble and clean out the bottom end if you are ever in doubt if anything is in there.

I have locktited and epoxied helicoils in for various reasons, however never on one of these motors.
Some of our industrial situations had helicoils in places that had fasteners in and out on a regular basis. The helicoi would often "walk" out and be exposed. We'd cut them off with a die grinder, clean out with spray cleaner and seal it in place with locktite or "crazy glue". Epoxy was reserved for the spots where the threads were likely to leak some sort of gas or fluid. The usual method was tap it out with the Helicoil tap, spray it clean with Brake Kleen or similar, putty it up with the epoxy and ram the helicoil in place. Clean up the coil driver well. Normally allowed 24hr cure time with a greased bolt in place. Never relied on a plug of epoxy to seal the bottom unless it was 2 thread diameters deep or more. Any less will be pushed out by the stud or hydraulic/pneumatic pressure.

Helicoil it, epoxy or locktite it if you wish, and/or daub a little RTV or similar on that stud when you assemble it. You will be fine.

Be more careful in the future, I am now! :)
 
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