higher compression requires better head sealing

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The first two pics are of my old 6cc head that the same as steve said warped fore and aft but a little more in the front. sorry didnt mean for doubles. the last pic is my current one.I am curious if the teflon tape stays in with higher cr
 
A little over .5 mm off the 66 cc slant plug engine head should be real close to a 5cc head and 155+ lbs. of compression with a stock head gasket. She'll be fast, but don't think she'll last. For my own bikes I just stick with the aftermarket heads. No warping no constant re torquing. Can't wait to see where this goes.
 
I agree it wont last!but its fun and it will still give me a couple hundred passes before it cant be trued anymore and go through a couple jugs but at 40 bucks for whole top end money well spent to me!I also use the after market heads when traveling long distances or even just cruise speeds for longer periods.they wick away heat much better i have rode non stop for over two hours with no over heat from Hamilton to Toronto and back .
 
What do you think about spraying down the mag. coil with flex seal to water proof it?
For that I have always had good luck with high heat silicon filling the rubber grommet from inside as the last bit of wire is pushed through until it oozes out and is sealed around the wires then thinly coat each side of cover gasket and sealed pretty much waterproof!
 
Gary do you know or anyone know whats best to seal a tank with? I would like to use this tank its all welded up and dressed but im sure there is pin holes (porosity)in the welds and its hard not to blow through, the thin filler neck was not fun but its done and rather than grind it and subject it to more possible f**k up's im hopeing that sealing it will work.
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Gary do you know or anyone know whats best to seal a tank with? I would like to use this tank its all welded up and dressed but im sure there is pin holes (porosity)in the welds and its hard not to blow through, the thin filler neck was not fun but its done and rather than grind it and subject it to more possible f**k up's im hopeing that sealing it will work.View attachment 74426 View attachment 74427
It depends how you want to go there is expensive motorbike fuel tank sealers or you can use fiberglass which is not affected by petrol I have made full tanks out of cardboard covered in fiberglass and a bit of fibre or old clothing .fiberglass is only $10 for 500 mls $4 for a little bottle of hardener you put 20 drops to 100 mls of fibreglass resin in a cup it does smell strong give it a stir and paint it on whatever you like it should harden within an hour or two but the thinner the coating of fibreglass the more like glass it is ..easy to break that's where the fibre comes in...here is a tank the top and sides are balsa wood and bottom is a tea towel you can see in the red circle blue Red pattern lol .I put on the frame then covered in fibreglass to get the shape the top cap is a stock one cut off a tank and fibreglassd in....My mate has a peewee tank old and Rusty so we put rust converter in it then got it all out then put 100mls of fibreglass in and kept rotating the tank till dry .
 

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On my Suzuki 100 it was getting too hot running 150psi compression so I reduced it to 135 and there was too small a difference in power to have any regrets. So now it runs cooler and it doesn't have the power loss at peak operating temperature like it did before.

Heads-a-mess, how do you get the two ends of the teflon tape to join together?
 
Evon nylon? I make sprockets out of it and gear's its pretty strong just don't know it's melting point
 
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