Performance heads

[FurryOnTheInside]

I believe the mzpartsmiami rse type reed is Cuban made, not Chinese. It's not a direct knockoff of the RSE, it's just similar conceptually. there's not much you can do with a bolt on externally mounted low profile billet reed valve

Thanks for replying but it isn't the reed I'm referring to, it's the pancake head with the German looking cross shaped top.
I'll get the genuine RSE reed valve later on and then I will feel less like a bad person who buys rip offs of real MBers hard work.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

The Chinese knockoff of the (mzpartsmiami) RSE head does not duplicate the squish area very well, and will not work as well.
I have both. It is possible to recut the squish area. The Chinese knockoff of the RSE head is also lighter and slightly less fin area. I don't think that would make much difference in my climate, but maybe in Miami or Arizona?

Thank you for your reply. I will try your emery glued to spare piston technique. I had thought it looks like less fin area. As long as no serious malfunction issues this is looking like a sensible option for a UK/European build.

 

[Steve Best]

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words:

 

[gary55]

Re working the stock head as Steve shows is your best option from a economical stand point. It will still have decent compression, and if you dial in the squish gap to the rec
commended .8mm it will have higher than stock comp.. Probably in the 145 psi area.
Using the head Steve shows on the right will require a good deal of material removal from the jug or resurfacing the jug to use a teflon tape style gasket. I've herd the tef. tape gasket works well. You will still be left with to wide a squish area without opening up the dome. Too wide being relative as to what one is looking for. You have probably seen the earlier posted perf. results.
Of the heads below the left head with the fins that converge toward the plug is a 6cc head. It will bolt on with no compression loss over the slant plug head, and has a squish band close in width to what Steve produced at 7.5mm. The other two while having the narrower band are still like the flat head Steve shows in that there volume being 8cc will need the same work to maintain a good compression, i.e. decking jug or tef. tape gasket.



So since it's not that hot where you live the only draw back to the stock re worked head is constant re torquing.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Re working the stock head as Steve shows is your best option from a economical stand point. It will still have decent compression, and if you dial in the squish gap to the rec
commended .8mm it will have higher than stock comp.. Probably in the 145 psi area.
Using the head Steve shows on the right will require a good deal of material removal from the jug or resurfacing the jug to use a teflon tape style gasket. I've herd the tef. tape gasket works well. You will still be left with to wide a squish area without opening up the dome. Too wide being relative as to what one is looking for. You have probably seen the earlier posted perf. results.
Of the heads below the left head with the fins that converge toward the plug is a 6cc head. It will bolt on with no compression loss over the slant plug head, and has a squish band close in width to what Steve produced at 7.5mm. The other two while having the narrower band are still like the flat head Steve shows in that there volume being 8cc will need the same work to maintain a good compression, i.e. decking jug or tef. tape gasket.



So since it's not that hot where you live the only draw back to the stock re worked head is constant re torquing.

Thanks Gary. You've given me lots of info there to help me get started on this head when it arrives. I have already ordered it. I just don't feel comfortable with going far from home with the stock head having read the disaster stories, and seen the quality of the stock generic non-Grubee head I received. I wanted a way to make the engine more my own anyway.
I will be using the twisted Teflon tape gasket anyway. I'll buy a compression tester next month and check cranking pressure and squish clearance.