Huffy Nel Lusso Safe?

The not fast at all problem is because of the 50 tooth sprocket, not the weight, trust me on that. If you swap it to a 40 or a 38 you'll be riding much much faster without toasting the motor.
Oh yeah, the going slow is not a problem at all for me. It is what i intended. I just wanted to let the dude know that the set up I have, isn't for earth shattering speed. I felt that with its weight and my irresponsible ass , one day I would be going too fast and would not be able to stop and wreck. Plus I like this gearing to putt around the park at very slow speed. Also taking off with minimal pedaling is nice.
 
Yeah, I used the Nel Lusso from Walmart, the way it is right now, does not go fast at all. The bike is very heavy after all the added stuff. It has a 50 tooth sprocket. This one goes about 15-18 Mph. Didn't use any special engine, just used the best deal 66cc engine kit on eBay at the time. eBay kits are a real gamble though, as I soon found out from buying more engine kits from there. Even tho they all look the same, the quality isn't the same , so be careful.

As far as the fenders go, They are either safe or they're not. There is no in-between. No gray area so to speak. And I don't think I want to keep them around my bike to find out... As far as access, haven't done it yet, buttttttt I'm pretty sure you can take the front fender off without have to take the wheel off.But You do have to take your rear wheel off to take that back fender off.
Alrighty then, I intend on assembling the bike myself. So hopefully when im putting it together I can just exclude the fenders :D
 
Because you're smart enough not to leave them badly installed.
Yes if you don't plan on beefing up the retaining system with some kind of stronger bracket, the top and rear mounts will be the most important since the front of the fender can't get sucked forward, under the wheel, and back up from behind, if the rear mount drops however it's bye bye Charlie, or whatever your name is.
Great, because im assembling it myself, so I can just exclude the fenders? Also, if I did happen to want to "beef up" the retaining system, would that be easy also?
 
The metal brackets that hold the fenders on for huffys (the part that attaches from directly above the front/rear axle to the fender) are very flimsy and easily bent, so they allow them to rattle around. You can swap them out for much more durable brackets for security. I just run no fenders and deal with the occasional rock turtle, or rooster tails when riding in the rain. I'll eventually be putting on aftermarket downhill fenders (looks like dirtbike fenders).
 
Because you're smart enough not to leave them badly installed.
I don't buy ~$100 bikes to start with, but I do pay attention to fender mounts.
Micargi's have 5 point front and rear fender mounts, I just make sure their mount struts stay connected to the fender.
 
So comming back to this bike with a bit of precautionary info, a friend has this Nel lusso that was motorized and so far the rear wheel has failed twice. The bearings I think he said failed the first time, and now again. This bike uses a coaster brake but that is being removed entirely for starters because the hub has failed again and I don't trust it, and it's kinda pointless once you have front and rear v brakes.. Here's a shot of the bearing failure on the coaster brake arm side.
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Don't mind the fact that the sprocket isn't centered, the chain broke shortly beforehand, being that the bearings were out of whack and the wheel was litteraly jiggling in the dropout so that will screw stuff up.

Second part I would say is a safety concern is the major one which I discovered while working on rebuilding the wheel with a new hub, apparently the flanges on these hubs aren't part of the hub, but are a ring that's pressed in place on the outside of each end of the tube that makes the guff of the hub.
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While I was removing spokes, which isn't a hard thing to do, requiring little muscle, the flange litteraly just lopped off!!

I sure that is the side that held the large drive sprocket, so I guess with all the extra force on the spokes (good thing they used 12 gauge spokes for stock I might add) must have pulled outward on the flange enough to make/stretch it slightly larger so it could simply come off.

Now I kind of have a problem with the fact that flange, which holds the wheel f***ing together, can be simply disconnected from the hub just by introducing a rag joint to the wheel...

As a standard, for now on when it comes to me personally building a bike, I would replace the rear wheel on this bike immediately before going further into motorizing it, and I'll also check other bike's hubs as well, if it looks like they are using a pressed on flange then it gets chucked if it's aluminum, and welded if it's steel, even then it's still probably best to chuck it regardless. That's a design that doesn't even require a motor to cause destruction, simply time can do that by putting tension on the flange.
 
So comming back to this bike with a bit of precautionary info, a friend has this Nel lusso that was motorized and so far the rear wheel has failed twice.
I've said it until I'm blue in the face...

DON'T MOTORIZE A HUFFY!

As a standard, for now on when it comes to me personally building a bike, I would replace the rear wheel on this bike immediately before going further into motorizing it
Or just build on better bikes!
$150-$250 Micargi bikes work great and don't self destruct.
 
Dealt with the same thing with the hub problem, I thought it was just my wheel a solitary case, now I see that it's not.
 
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