4-S Clutch Flyweight Replacement

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Stay above your clutch stall speed as often as possible. Get a correct gear ratio for your area.

I.ve heard of engine stall speed but never clutch stall speed. How does that work ? As far as gears, all I have is the 44T.

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Your clutch stall speed is the rpm the clutch begins to engage the bell. It slips till full engagement. You want to avoid the rpms in between as much as possible to allow your clutch to last. Get up to full engagement then let your rpms climb a little more before cruising. I have a buddy that didn't like going fast and stayed around 15-20 mph all the time. His gear ratio made it so the clutch wasn't fully engaged till 19 mph. His clutches lasted a couple weeks each. I changed his gear ratios up and yes engine rpms are alot higher than before when he would hang around 20 mph, he now does 27 mph vs 40+ max. Take-off and hill climbing improved greatly as well.
 
Also, use caution when working with a burned out clutch, most cheap clutch pads are made with asbestos. DO NOT BREATH IN THAT DUST.
 
Do you mean changing gear ratios on an 18 speed mountain bike ?? I don't believe I ever use those with the engine running. Like I sez, just got one 44T...and the single chain hoot trans, dats it.

Your clutch stall speed is the rpm the clutch begins to engage the bell. It slips till full engagement. You want to avoid the rpms in between as much as possible to allow your clutch to last. Get up to full engagement then let your rpms climb a little more before cruising. I have a buddy that didn't like going fast and stayed around 15-20 mph all the time. His gear ratio made it so the clutch wasn't fully engaged till 19 mph. His clutches lasted a couple weeks each. I changed his gear ratios up and yes engine rpms are alot higher than before when he would hang around 20 mph, he now does 27 mph vs 40+ max. Take-off and hill climbing improved greatly as well.
 
Your hoot transmission has a 3:1 reduction with a 10t output going to a 44t for a total gear ratio of 13.2:1. You are cooking your clutch till 20 mph at that ratio. You would be much better off with an 18:1 ratio or higher. Yes you'll be at around 6k rpm to do 25 mph, but your clutch will thank you.
 
I get confused if the transmission is either a 'multi-speed'...or a 'variator'. Anyway, the main sprocket on the dual chain BB, has 41 tooth and a shaft sprocket of 6 tooth...which supposedly translates to a higher gear ratio. The issue I had however, with this larger trans, is that it would only get to 18 mph at 6500 RPM and not engage or revert to a lower RPM cruising speed afterward...which is what a transmission is normally suppose to do.
 
You don't get multi speed with a simple single speed transfer case unless you get jackshaft over or use a reverse rotation pocketbike transfer case.
Both of what you have are single speed transfer cases. You can choose what gear you are stuck in, pretend you have a broken transmission that can only use 1 gear: do you want to be able to climb hills in 1st gear but be limited to a low speed with high rpms? Stuck in 3rd, kinda slow on takeoff, decent speeds and will slow down on hills but maybe take them but only if you pedal. Or stuck in 5th (your gear ratio), destroy your clutch some every time you accelerate from a stop, very slow acceleration, high top speed and no ability to take hills without moving into the clutch destroying rpm range.
Your choice.
 
I had the bike..the one with the single chain trans, on a bike stand, and noticed that the clutch engages and disengages at around 4000 RPM. So I'm assuming when actually riding, that whenever the engine approaches 7000 RPM...then settles down between 3 and 4, then this is the optimal sweet spot for cruising. Checking the tach then, is about the only way I see of preventing a clutch blowout.


You don't get multi speed with a simple single speed transfer case unless you get jackshaft over or use a reverse rotation pocketbike transfer case.
Both of what you have are single speed transfer cases. You can choose what gear you are stuck in, pretend you have a broken transmission that can only use 1 gear: do you want to be able to climb hills in 1st gear but be limited to a low speed with high rpms? Stuck in 3rd, kinda slow on takeoff, decent speeds and will slow down on hills but maybe take them but only if you pedal. Or stuck in 5th (your gear ratio), destroy your clutch some every time you accelerate from a stop, very slow acceleration, high top speed and no ability to take hills without moving into the clutch destroying rpm range.
Your choice.
 
If you notice that the clutch engages and disengages at around 4k rpm then why cruise at 3-4k??? That right there is churning your clutch. You will want to stay above 4k rpm.
 
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