Carby Zeda Dio Reed Tuning, Backfiring

Status
Not open for further replies.
OKO 21.jpg
 
So, I had a gut fealing it was running lean when I took it apart. I ended up upjetting it a few sizes and adjusted the needle clip one up which now I need to change to one down probably. But she revs real well and has power just need to adjust the needle clip.
 
On the oko clones you need to do a few mods to make it run right #1 take your pilot jet out and drill out the hole to around 1.5 mm, the way they come is too small and won't feed your pilot jet fast enough to run the right mix.that's why your motor acts like it's running lean but when you blip the throttle is spitting oil. #2 you need to replace your emus ion tube to a genuine oko tube or drill out 2 more holes in the fake carbs emulsion tube as before, the Chinese replica is missing a set of holes and won't feed your main jet fast enough. #3 on the intake side of the carb you will see a big hole in the middle and if you look inside there is a small hole. The small holes needs to be drilled out to about 1mm. #4 you need to drill out your flat valve seat a little bit not to exceed 1.5 mm as then your flat valve will not seat properly, also need to drill straight through the valve seat as close to the bottom as you can not to exceed more than 2mm up from thebottom of the flat valve seat. There are articles online that will give better instructive advice with pictures and all that. The Chinese replicas look good but the passages are pretty much all too small. Also one more thing if you are still experiencing a bog right after idle to 1/4 throttle you čan either sand down the top of your throttle needle before the taper or buy a genuine oko needle to allow more fuel in. You will never be able to tune these replicas correctly without these mods as the stock passages just won't allow enough fuel to pass through the jets in order to run right. I have done these on my bike and had a100 percent improvement and no more bogging or backfiring. You should need around 40-45ish idle jet and around 90-95 main jet with your needle in the 3Rd position andair screw no more than two turns out.
 
On the oko clones you need to do a few mods to make it run right #1 take your pilot jet out and drill out the hole to around 1.5 mm, the way they come is too small and won't feed your pilot jet fast enough to run the right mix.that's why your motor acts like it's running lean but when you blip the throttle is spitting oil. #2 you need to replace your emus ion tube to a genuine oko tube or drill out 2 more holes in the fake carbs emulsion tube as before, the Chinese replica is missing a set of holes and won't feed your main jet fast enough. #3 on the intake side of the carb you will see a big hole in the middle and if you look inside there is a small hole. The small holes needs to be drilled out to about 1mm. #4 you need to drill out your flat valve seat a little bit not to exceed 1.5 mm as then your flat valve will not seat properly, also need to drill straight through the valve seat as close to the bottom as you can not to exceed more than 2mm up from thebottom of the flat valve seat. There are articles online that will give better instructive advice with pictures and all that. The Chinese replicas look good but the passages are pretty much all too small. Also one more thing if you are still experiencing a bog right after idle to 1/4 throttle you čan either sand down the top of your throttle needle before the taper or buy a genuine oko needle to allow more fuel in. You will never be able to tune these replicas correctly without these mods as the stock passages just won't allow enough fuel to pass through the jets in order to run right. I have done these on my bike and had a100 percent improvement and no more bogging or backfiring. You should need around 40-45ish idle jet and around 90-95 main jet with your needle in the 3Rd position andair screw no more than two turns out.
You do know jet sizes will change with: Pipe, intake length, temp, air filter, elevation, commpression. Etc, right?
 
On the oko clones you need to do a few mods to make it run right #1 take your pilot jet out and drill out the hole to around 1.5 mm, the way they come is too small and won't feed your pilot jet fast enough to run the right mix.that's why your motor acts like it's running lean but when you blip the throttle is spitting oil. #2 you need to replace your emus ion tube to a genuine oko tube or drill out 2 more holes in the fake carbs emulsion tube as before, the Chinese replica is missing a set of holes and won't feed your main jet fast enough. #3 on the intake side of the carb you will see a big hole in the middle and if you look inside there is a small hole. The small holes needs to be drilled out to about 1mm. #4 you need to drill out your flat valve seat a little bit not to exceed 1.5 mm as then your flat valve will not seat properly, also need to drill straight through the valve seat as close to the bottom as you can not to exceed more than 2mm up from thebottom of the flat valve seat. There are articles online that will give better instructive advice with pictures and all that. The Chinese replicas look good but the passages are pretty much all too small. Also one more thing if you are still experiencing a bog right after idle to 1/4 throttle you čan either sand down the top of your throttle needle before the taper or buy a genuine oko needle to allow more fuel in. You will never be able to tune these replicas correctly without these mods as the stock passages just won't allow enough fuel to pass through the jets in order to run right. I have done these on my bike and had a100 percent improvement and no more bogging or backfiring. You should need around 40-45ish idle jet and around 90-95 main jet with your needle in the 3Rd position andair screw no more than two turns out.
Hey man I'm installing one of these right now onto my bike is there anyway that you could maybe possibly give me a hand and help me out with a few things?? I already blew up one motor and piston and don't want to f*** this one up as well!! Thx man my email is mcmurray0409@gmail.com
 
Find a used open chamber cr or yz ,,, even a rm 80cc tuned pipe,,, Needle & Jet for correct A/F in area,,, just enough mix...

Find a nice tan spark plug threw all ranges and pin-it...

Thanks for the ideas,,, now I'm catching on... 🤟

Don
KX65 like in my pic works real well ;)
 
On the oko clones you need to do a few mods to make it run right #1 take your pilot jet out and drill out the hole to around 1.5 mm, the way they come is too small and won't feed your pilot jet fast enough to run the right mix.that's why your motor acts like it's running lean but when you blip the throttle is spitting oil. #2 you need to replace your emus ion tube to a genuine oko tube or drill out 2 more holes in the fake carbs emulsion tube as before, the Chinese replica is missing a set of holes and won't feed your main jet fast enough. #3 on the intake side of the carb you will see a big hole in the middle and if you look inside there is a small hole. The small holes needs to be drilled out to about 1mm. #4 you need to drill out your flat valve seat a little bit not to exceed 1.5 mm as then your flat valve will not seat properly, also need to drill straight through the valve seat as close to the bottom as you can not to exceed more than 2mm up from thebottom of the flat valve seat. There are articles online that will give better instructive advice with pictures and all that. The Chinese replicas look good but the passages are pretty much all too small. Also one more thing if you are still experiencing a bog right after idle to 1/4 throttle you čan either sand down the top of your throttle needle before the taper or buy a genuine oko needle to allow more fuel in. You will never be able to tune these replicas correctly without these mods as the stock passages just won't allow enough fuel to pass through the jets in order to run right. I have done these on my bike and had a100 percent improvement and no more bogging or backfiring. You should need around 40-45ish idle jet and around 90-95 main jet with your needle in the 3Rd position andair screw no more than two turns out.
Where is this link at??
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top