Vikingimike01
Well-Known Member
That's why I ordered straight from china. Most USA sellers order from china in bulk, and just inspect it.. That's all
And he probably owns a drill. Even a cheapo cordless drill is enough with decent drill bits. It's suchhh a simple and quick job to correct (improve) the 66cc engine's balance that it would be unthinkable to give up some displacement just to not have to bother doing it.
Modified Happy Time crank
Not perfect but better "balance" than it was when stock! More Happy Time less Crappy Time. ;)
Back to the topic,
I omitted the kill switch entirely to protect it from rain.
I also soldered the two wires from the magneto to the two from the CDI, rather than use the spade connectors.
I cut the mag wires short to put the solder join inside the mag cover.
I made a drip loop in the CDI wire so any water on the wires will drip away from the rubber grommet.
I used silicone sealant just as others have said.
I left a tiny gap in the very bottom of the mag cover gasket to allow it to breath and expel any condensation moisture.
I covered the upper part of the mag cover gasket with pvc tape. Just in case.
I also added a rubber shroud to the spark plug wire where it enters the CDI, just like the one at the boot (it actually was the one from the stock boot) and just taped it in place.
I used an NGK boot and plug.
And fitted the bike with fenders.
It's always good to think through the effects on safety of any modifications and I like that you're thinking about what could happen.Isn't it kind of dangerous to run without a kill switch? Like what if your throttle sticks or something and you need to shut off the engine? Sure you could cut-off the fuel but it still runs for quite awhile from the gas in the float bowl and tubing.
It's always good to think through the effects on safety of any modifications and I like that you're thinking about what could happen.
But I have to weigh up the pros and cons and likeliness of things..
I have complete confidence in my maintenance and I don't expect my throttle to stick.
I'm not totally sure what stick means but I suppose the return spring that pushes the slide down would have to fail to overcome the friction of the cable in the housing or the slide in the carb, so when I return the twist throttle to closed position the slide fails to close. That would be some serious friction, requiring serious neglect. =
Or some foreign object blocking the movement, but I didn't leave any way for things to get in...
I have every confidence that my well maintained bike will not have this problem!
Ever!!!
Otherwise choke it.
For choke kill, I was thinking about a handlebar mounted choke control made from a front derailleur shifter, to allow the idle screw to be used. I don't have much use for idling though, so I never bothered. I will stick with the throttle kill method
My kill switch makes a break in the circuit rather than ground it out.Isn't it kind of dangerous to run without a kill switch? Like what if your throttle sticks or something and you need to shut off the engine? Sure you could cut-off the fuel but it still runs for quite awhile from the gas in the float bowl and tubing.