4 Stroke Engine will not Start!!

bike4life

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Engine is a predator 212 hemi.
I did drop the engine once from like 3ft but landed on the gas tank so only a small dent in the top.
When i bought it, i removed the governor, oil sensor, and added throttle cable to the lever.
The engine is brand new from the store and i never ran it.
When i added oil, i noticed that i was leaking from the crankcase after coming back in an hour and seeing drips on the floor. I tightened up everything and havent noticed a leak, but there might be one....
Today i decided to run it and it did not run.

I have spark.
The compression test yeilds 40psi. I performed it by inserting the guage and pulled the handle like 4 times, the first time was 10psi, second 20psi, 3rd 30psi, and so forth to 40psi. Any additional handle pulls after 4 did not increase the psi. i think it done right.
What else do i need to do?
An interesting thing i noticed is remember how i broke off part of the vent on top of the gas tank. Well I decided to caulk up the area that broke off.
Now when i removed the carb, i was suprised to see that little gas exited the tank. Then when i removed the plug, the gas poured out of the hose that leads to the carb.
I dont think this is the reason why it doesnt start, but maybe it is. This is because the carb was saturated in gas.
 
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When an engine hasn't been cranked for a long time. A little trick that has always worked for me is to remove the spark plug then spray starter fluid into the cylinder. Reinsert the spark plug attach the SP wire. Put on full choke, it'll usually fire by the third pull.
 
Did you crack the crank case at all? Those are low psi readings for a new engine.
 
He definitely "cracked" it open (LOL) to remove the governor. Sounds to me like the cam timing is off. Did OP line up the dots?

As seen in this video, between the 2:40-3:10 mark:
 
He definitely "cracked" it open (LOL) to remove the governor. Sounds to me like the cam timing is off. Did OP line up the dots?

As seen in this video, between the 2:40-3:10 mark:

the dots are lined up. my cam shaft did line up. When starting the engine, should i use a drill maybe? wouldnt it not matter, the crankcase should not affect the compression reading. The only thing affecting the reading is the tightness of the piston rings and the valves.
 
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When an engine hasn't been cranked for a long time. A little trick that has always worked for me is to remove the spark plug then spray starter fluid into the cylinder. Reinsert the spark plug attach the SP wire. Put on full choke, it'll usually fire by the third pull.
I re-tested the compression with the fitting on tighter and it read 60. Then i adjusted the valves to 3/1000" with a feeler guage and the compression dropped to 30. I have a feeling that i readjusted them too tight with the feeler guage and it was more like 2/1000" causing the compression to drop.
Then i was like screw this and hooked the compression meter on the spark plug gap and randomly tightened and loosened the valves until i got 60psi and called it a day. When i made the valves extremely loose, the rope and cord handle didnt even move when i tugged on it, so i couldnt take a reading as the cylinder didnt even move. Why? When it was extremely tight, the compression was like nothing. Then i found the middle ground which gave me 60psi. Is this ok?
Also the compression test was performed cold..... and also i just bought starter fluid today, will spray into the intake, dont spray into filter right, as a clog in the carb could cause a problem..
 
Did you crack the crank case at all? Those are low psi readings for a new engine.

I just tried to start the engine with starter fluid. It was about to runfor a second, I heard it go brooom, until my drill removed the bolt, as I drill started it and I assume the starter fluid burned up.
 
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I read on a karting site the intake is .005" exhaust .007", and 60 to 80 is normal on a stock engine. It will probably come up some once the rings seat. Also while doing a compression test the throttle needs to be wide open.
 
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