Slowly but surely . . .

This project is taking a while (cash flow).

 

[Randall]

Does anyone know if I can put a #35 chain on the 415 rear sprockets? Just ordered the TAV torque-a-verter from gopowersports
and would like to put the 12 tooth on the verter for the #35 chain and keep the 415 rear sprocket. Would there be a lot of side play?
There is a nickel plated #35 chain I would like to get for this on flea bay.

Links:

TAV Torq-a-verter
https://www.gopowersports.com/tav-3...edium=SWAP_MEET&utm_campaign=Redbeards_Garage

Nickle Plated #35 Chain:
https://www.ebay.com/p/35np-Nickel-...2-Connecting-Links/823697799?iid=221394783476

 

[curtisfox]

Will not work as tooth spacing closer on 35 and smaller teeth. Think 35 is 3/8" pitch and 415 is 1/2" pitch.............Curt

 

[Randall]

Will not work as tooth spacing closer on 35 and smaller teeth. Think 35 is 3/8" pitch and 415 is 1/2" pitch.............Curt

Oh, okay thanks. I will have to buy a #35 chain sprocket and have someone (professional) drill the holes. I don't trust myself.

 

[Randall]

Drilled the sprocket using another 44 tooth sprocket with a washer sized to the hole in the center then a bolt and nut to hold them both together. Lined up the bolt pattern pretty good. Had to put in a longer axle for the front wheel, also going to have to put in a longer axle on the back wheel (clearance issue between the frame and sprocket). Welded the open exhaust to the original exhaust pipe. Just putting that pipe on by itself wouldn't fit (hit the frame). Took it home to put gas and to see if it would fire up. It did. VERY LOUD. It pops through the exhaust possibly running too rich. Video of the start up is too big. Will crop to the exciting part this afternoon. Also have to get a new fuel shut off valve. The one I bought at Ace hardware is already leaking (plastic). Metal shut off valve or nothing from now on.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Uhhmm. I think if it pops, it's too lean, not rich.

 

[Randall]

Uhhmm. I think if it pops, it's too lean, not rich.

Yes, I think you're right.

 

[Randall]

Light mount: Going to "punch" 1 5/16 inch holes through the light bracket to put it through the fork tubes all the way down then put two collars on top of that.

Need to take another 1/4 inch off the left side of the engine mount to get it to line up with the CVT sprocket.
EDIT: Nope that is as far as that engine will go so I need to get a longer axle and a spacer for the rear sprocket.

Drilled a hole through the kickstand and put a bolt and two nuts on it to act as a stop. It was leaning too far over. Almost fell over once.

 

[Randall]

Actually, since it is the bolt heads on the engine mount that is keeping me from moving the engine, I will get four allen head bolts to replace them.
That should give me a little more room to move the engine.

 

[Randall]

Uggghhh, had to take the back wheel in to a machine shop to get it redrilled as I screwed up the drilling of the new bearing recess. Basically turning the rear wheel into a front wheel (no other option as I removed the cassette hub). Needed the extra space to clear the rear sprocket from the frame.
Matt at Greh Fab did an amazing job! He is a Ninja welder!

I have decided to lift the engine up a bit using 1x1 tubing to help the CVT frame clear the motor mount (saw this on Red Beads Garage YT). I will still need to get longer round head bolts though.

 

[Randall]

Also need a stonger kickstand. The back plate is too weak and bends allowing the kickstand to go further to the left and letting the bike tilt too far and fall over. Thinking of buying an actual motorcycle kickstand to weld on.