Sprockets Is if ok for some side to side movement in the stock rag joint?

[Granite80]

So my build it doing good, but I’ve noticed that when slowing down with the clutch pulled in, or pedaling, I feel a slight tight then loosen in the whole bike. I could never get these things to be perfectly true. Is this ok?

 

[Granite80]

Today I’ll be loosening the bolts and trueing it.

 

[Axl Myk]

Thin wood shims between the hub and sprocket can help get it true. Lay the wheel flat so gravity doesn't make it difficult. A rubber mallet helps nudge it a bit.
Don't go whole hog tightening it. A little at a time.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I feel a slight tight then loosen in the whole bike. I could never get these things to be perfectly true. Is this ok?

The chain and sprocket should have no more than 1.5 mm, (1/16th of an inch), of "wobble", variance as you see it spinning...You achieve this by trial and error on the bolts holding the rag joint and sprocket once it is secured on the spokes/hub section byt tightening and loosening by very small increments as you spin and check it until you have got it right...it takes time and effort but it is worth it..I have mine trued and trimmed out to 0.75 mm, (1/32nd of an inch)...Below are the instructions I used to accomplish this and i followed them as exactly as humanly possible...DAMIEN


The Instructions below, courtesy of Zeda 80 instruction manual of how to properly install chain, sprocket and rag joint assembly:

Installing the Rear Sprocket Installing the Rear Sprocket is the first task required because the alignment between the Rear Sprocket and the Motor is key to where the motor needs to sit in the frame and whether or not the Rear Wheel needs to be offset.

Before fitting the Rear Sprocket, make sure the Spokes are in good condition and are tight, and that the Wheel runs true. The extra weight of the motor on the bike and the power produced, puts extra stress on the wheel so it needs to be in top condition. The motor weighs roughly the same as the bike, so you are effectively doubling the total mass! Your local Bike Shop can true the Wheel for you or there are some good ‘HowTo’ articles available on the Web. Also, is the rear tyre up to the task?

1. Find the two Rear Sprocket rubber packing pieces. Cut only one of them between the drilled holes.

2. Place the cut packing piece inside the spokes.

3. Place the other packing piece on the outside of the spokes.

4. Place the metal support segments against the rubber inside the wheel and the sprocket on the outside, with the teeth offset inwards. That is, the step on the teeth is towards the wheel spokes. Overlap the split of the inner rubber with one of the plates.

NOTE: Some bikes with large tyres may need to be Sprocket reversed.

5. Push the nine bolts through the sprocket, outer rubber, the inner rubber and finally the support pieces.

6. Place washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them so the assembly is loosely held together with light pressure on the spokes. All nuts need to have the same amount of thread protruding.

7. Align sprocket and center hub so the gap is even all round. Use a block of wood and a hammer against the teeth to tap the sprocket into position, if necessary.

8. Tighten the nuts and bolts 2 full turns in a criss–cross or star pattern and check the hub alignment again and adjust if necessary Tighten the nuts and bolts another full turn moving in a star fashion across the sprocket.

9. Repeat this process twice more, checking the alignment as you go. The nuts should now be tight enough to hold the sprocket firmly against the spokes but have some flexing in the drive direction.

10. Spin the wheel and check that the sprocket runs true. Run out of more than 1.5mm may cause the chain to bind and even jam or jump off the sprocket. Correct any side-to-side wobble by tightening the nuts where the sprocket is further from the spokes to pull the sprocket back into alignment, and slacken the nuts on the opposite side a fraction, if necessary. If there is a gap between the two rubbers, tighten all the nuts evenly, until the rubbers are just touching.

NOTE: Do not over tighten the nuts, the rubbers give some degree of shock absorption, so If over-tight this will not happen.

If there is still some run-out, use a large shifting spanner to bend the section of sprocket giving trouble. You do not need to use much force to do this,

11. Place the wheel in the bike frame and install it as indicated in the bicycle instruction manual. At this time leave the axle retaining nuts finger tight, they will be tightened later when the drive chain alignment is set.

Check the wheel and sprocket run true and adjust if necessary. Make any further adjustments as necessary

 

[Granite80]

The chain and sprocket should have no more than 1.5 mm, (1/16th of an inch), of "wobble", variance as you see it spinning...You achieve this by trial and error on the bolts holding the rag joint and sprocket once it is secured on the spokes/hub section byt tightening and loosening by very small increments as you spin and check it until you have got it right...it takes time and effort but it is worth it..I have mine trued and trimmed out to 0.75 mm, (1/32nd of an inch)...Below are the instructions I used to accomplish this and i followed them as exactly as humanly possible...DAMIEN


The Instructions below, courtesy of Zeda 80 instruction manual of how to properly install chain, sprocket and rag joint assembly:

Installing the Rear Sprocket Installing the Rear Sprocket is the first task required because the alignment between the Rear Sprocket and the Motor is key to where the motor needs to sit in the frame and whether or not the Rear Wheel needs to be offset.

Before fitting the Rear Sprocket, make sure the Spokes are in good condition and are tight, and that the Wheel runs true. The extra weight of the motor on the bike and the power produced, puts extra stress on the wheel so it needs to be in top condition. The motor weighs roughly the same as the bike, so you are effectively doubling the total mass! Your local Bike Shop can true the Wheel for you or there are some good ‘HowTo’ articles available on the Web. Also, is the rear tyre up to the task?

1. Find the two Rear Sprocket rubber packing pieces. Cut only one of them between the drilled holes.

2. Place the cut packing piece inside the spokes.

3. Place the other packing piece on the outside of the spokes.

4. Place the metal support segments against the rubber inside the wheel and the sprocket on the outside, with the teeth offset inwards. That is, the step on the teeth is towards the wheel spokes. Overlap the split of the inner rubber with one of the plates.

NOTE: Some bikes with large tyres may need to be Sprocket reversed.

5. Push the nine bolts through the sprocket, outer rubber, the inner rubber and finally the support pieces.

6. Place washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them so the assembly is loosely held together with light pressure on the spokes. All nuts need to have the same amount of thread protruding.

7. Align sprocket and center hub so the gap is even all round. Use a block of wood and a hammer against the teeth to tap the sprocket into position, if necessary.

8. Tighten the nuts and bolts 2 full turns in a criss–cross or star pattern and check the hub alignment again and adjust if necessary Tighten the nuts and bolts another full turn moving in a star fashion across the sprocket.

9. Repeat this process twice more, checking the alignment as you go. The nuts should now be tight enough to hold the sprocket firmly against the spokes but have some flexing in the drive direction.

10. Spin the wheel and check that the sprocket runs true. Run out of more than 1.5mm may cause the chain to bind and even jam or jump off the sprocket. Correct any side-to-side wobble by tightening the nuts where the sprocket is further from the spokes to pull the sprocket back into alignment, and slacken the nuts on the opposite side a fraction, if necessary. If there is a gap between the two rubbers, tighten all the nuts evenly, until the rubbers are just touching.

NOTE: Do not over tighten the nuts, the rubbers give some degree of shock absorption, so If over-tight this will not happen.

If there is still some run-out, use a large shifting spanner to bend the section of sprocket giving trouble. You do not need to use much force to do this,

11. Place the wheel in the bike frame and install it as indicated in the bicycle instruction manual. At this time leave the axle retaining nuts finger tight, they will be tightened later when the drive chain alignment is set.

Check the wheel and sprocket run true and adjust if necessary. Make any further adjustments as necessary

Thank you!

 

[Granite80]

So here’s a update. I got that sprocket to run really really true. Go to put it back on, and guess what? I put the damn sprocket on backwards. Meaning that the dished end was facing in. The chain would bind and shoot off the sprocket when any movement occurred. I tried taking the engine and nudging it over a bit, didn’t help. I now have to redo the whole damn thing... my back still hurts!

 

[Chainlube]

The very first part of Damien's instructions should be test fit the sprocket on the hub and see how much space there is between the hub and sprocket inner diameter. Use some masking tape and wrap it around the hub a few times and test fit the sprocket again, repeat if necessary. It is important to have the sprocket centered on the wheel and for it to run true.

 

[Granite80]

The very first part of Damien's instructions should be test fit the sprocket on the hub and see how much space there is between the hub and sprocket inner diameter. Use some masking tape and wrap it around the hub a few times and test fit the sprocket again, repeat if necessary. It is important to have the sprocket centered on the wheel and for it to run true.

I use some zip ties and center them all around the gaps in the sprocket to the hub. Works great

 

[Granite80]

Going to go test!

 

[Granite80]

Update! Essentially all good! Not perfect, but totally good! That was essentially all of my day, but it’s worth it. I’m gonna go ride now!